**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Avoid those advice like plague.

    At least wait dry the first coat to let the cream absorb by leather. Follow on creams you can buff directly.

    People who grew up wearing feet constraining device will most probably have deformed feet.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2014


  2. Munky

    Munky Senior member

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    Goodness, Chanklebury, that's a lot of big words in a row!
     


  3. Chanklebury

    Chanklebury Senior member

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    I have had a few beers and am feeling wordy.... my apologies.
    Finding a well fitting RTW shoe is the bane of my life (sighs)
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2014


  4. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I think that must depend on how you define "feet constraining devices"

    I've worn shoes all my life. Started wearing cowboy boots in high school. Wore boots exclusively for the last 40 some years and started wearing shoes about 8 years ago. Now, that's all I wear.

    I'm 68 now. Life has had its affect, but...


    [​IMG]

    And


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2014


  5. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Why does the big toe and the outside edge of the feet sits out of the sole area? Just wondering.
     


  6. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    There were several lasts that I was playing with--one wider, one narrower. What you are looking at, with regard to the insole outlines, are bottom papers--a possible insole shape. The last would would be modified to mirror the footprint as close as possible and the insole shape would also be modified accordingly. Not the final insole shape or size, IOW. The final shape was probably somewhere between the green line and the red line.

    That said, the big toe will migrate laterally as the heel is raised... of its own accord. And furthermore, the swell of the last above the featherline assures that there will be no pressure on any toe. The shoes made on this last are near as perfect a fit as I could wish for.

    Finally, it is perhaps worth remarking that my fitting philosophy holds that the toes should gently, ever so slightly, nestle up against the inside wall of the shoe. If, with weight on, you reach down and feel your foot and can then feel the dorsal surface of the insole anywhere except at the end of your toes (and the toe stiffener should prevent you from feeling the insole in that region), the insole is too wide for the foot. Long experience has shown me that if I made the insole such that the print of the big toes was entirely within the outline of the bottom paper, I would, when done, be able to drive vamp leather with my thumb all the way to the surface of the insole. Not good. That excess/space will never be filled, never go away, and an ugly crease will develop right there.

    The shape of the insole can be slightly smaller than the footprint or even, in some areas slightly wider. It depends on the foot. Naturally a more flexible foot allows more latitude in the way the insole is cut than a more rigid foot.

    The important point in all this, however, is to look at the foot...my foot...see how it is shaped? No bunions, no hammer toes...no distortion-- virtually the same outline as when I was born.

    Now look at the pedograph...all toes printing, no "hot spots" (darker areas indicating fallen metatarsal arches, etc.)--the significance of the pedograph is as one indicator of the health of the foot.

    --
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2014


  7. joiji

    joiji Senior member

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  8. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    DWF, thanks for the detailed explanation.

    Your foot looks good, no damage or callus.
     


  9. Dillardiv

    Dillardiv Senior member

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    Does anyone have suggestions for cleaners for vegetable tanned boots? I'm seeing suggestions for saddle soaps on other sites. Is there a preferred saddle soap for veg tanned leather?

    For conditioning, I was going to go with Pecard's as I already have some at home. I have Renovateur too if that might be a better choice.

    Thanks guys!
     


  10. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Don't use saddle soap...it leaves a tallow or glycerine residue which will pick up grit.

    Use Lexol-Ph cleaner or a ph-neutral bably shampooo.
     


  11. Stirling

    Stirling Senior member

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    Dwf is right.

    I'll probably be accused of heresy, but saddle soap despite its name isn't a very good cleaner, infact it was always more of a leather conditioner than cleaner (hence the addition of glycerin etc).

    It has it's fans, but even in the equestrian world those who use it, do so to soften and condition leather, not so much to clean it.
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2014


  12. Dillardiv

    Dillardiv Senior member

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    Doesn't the Lexol bottle say "glycerin-rich" on it? Last time I tried lexol it seemed to almost take color off the shoe in the spot I used it on. What's the best method for using Lexol?
     


  13. Munky

    Munky Senior member

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    I have a pair of shoes that I have decided are a horrible colour. They are light tan. I don't have the skills that others have on here, to make artistic changes. What is the minimum I have to do to make them a darker colour?
     


  14. Stirling

    Stirling Senior member

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    It does have glycerine in it, but it's not likely to leave a tacky dust attracting residue due to the other additives within lexol.

    Unless your shoes are soiled, since you have it use Reno it should be more than adequate.
     


  15. Stirling

    Stirling Senior member

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    Munky, Firstly are they corrected grain? If so you can't do much.

    If not using darker creams and polishes will take them down a notch or two. But don't be overly zealous, thin regular coats will get you a more even look, but it'll always be a lighter colour wherever the shoe creases. You could also apply a heavy conditioner, they are known to darken leather due to their fat/oil content.
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2014


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