Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.
I certainly don't condone violence but we'll done!
Quick question, guys. When putting a high shine on the toe of a shoe, do you buff the polish between each layer/application of wax? Seems to me you'd want to knock the wax down smooth after each layer to until all the low spots are filled. Am I correct?
New member here, and I just started to really learn about/care for nicer shoes. I've been lurking a bit, and just recently purchased my first pair of Allen Edmonds(with the second in the mail)
I've been working on getting some nice polish on my shoes, and I'm finally fairly happy with my results after spending days on these shoes. I'm sure they pale in comparison to others in this thread but thought I'd share and see if theres any advice. From front to back they are a pair of Penguin shoes, AE Carlyle's, Vanishing Elephants, and and old pair of Zara's that are super beat up, but my next project!
Thats my understanding of it, and what I did with my shoes, but I'm still new to it, so would love to see other input
This has not been true based on my few limited conversations with shoemakers.
There can be several reasons the shoe creases in the toe cap area. There are several recent photos on the previous page of this thread that show such creasing.
We have to remember that the shoe only creases where the foot bends. So one of the first and most common reasons the cap is creasing is that the foot is too long for the shoe. This can result from an obvious misfit and/or a foot with short toes. It could also...but less likely...be because the last the maker is using has too short a forepart. I suspect the first photo represents this kind of misfit.
Another reason, is that the toe cap is too far back on the forepart of the shoe. and it encroaches into the area where the foot needs to flex. This may be a fairly common occurrence in contemporary extended toe lasts.
And yet another reason is that there is no toe box (toe stiffener) under the toe cap...or one that is so insubstantial that it doesn't stiffen the toe of the shoe sufficiently to prevent the shoe from creasing in the toe cap area. The second photo looks for all the world like there is no stiffener under the toe cap.
You say several reasons, I call it limited exceptions but I think we pretty much agree on the causes:
1) wrong size
2) a last which isn't suited to your foots physiology
3) a softee toe puff or no toe puff
4) a shoe with unusual proportions such as elongated toe cap or even vamp.
Poor quality leather is unlikely to be a cause in the shoes posted here.
Patrick would be interested to know what other reasons have been mentioned to you?
I was pretty much alluding to some of the things mentioned as well as the fact that even the best leathers crease and that's just the way the cookie crumbles.
Leather always creases, but it should crease only in the right points.
Meh, I think to some degree that school is thought is based more on aesthetics than any integrity issues, no?
That's true but you can have two people with the exact same length of foot, same heel to ball measurement, and due to the flexibility of the foot, they will crease in different places. Make a footbed differently. Fill the inside of the shoe differently.
In fact, the width of the foot relative to the last and the girth measurements can affect the way a shoe creases.
Even foot problems...such as fallen metatarsal arches...can cause the foot to crease differently than before the foot problem began.
If you feel like you have a good fit despite cautionary sentiments to the contrary, then yes, I'd say you're correct...there are few integrity issues associated with a crease that falls too far forward.
As far as the aesthetics is concerned, it's probably more an issue for shoemakers than for customers.
I suspect that in the case of my Bayfeilds that the toe box could have been reinforced better at the cap where it is sewn together. The cordovan is very stiff on these boots as was the sole (I also think this can cause creasing to happen in the wrong place) and the toe box seems weaker on the right toe, causing it to be the first breaking point of the leather.
Below is a pic from the original owner on what I think is the maiden voyage of the boot. When they boots arrived to me they still looked like this with no creases on the vamp, only the one on the right toe. The very stiff vamp leather seemed to cause a buckling of the leather at the toe making it crease. That part is weak compared to the left shoe and I have since formed creases in a more natural position to take pressure off the toe crease, this has helped already. As the natural vamp creases break in more, the toe crease should continue to take less stress.
I think it may be of some help, as someone mentioned, to maybe establish a breaking point on the vamp when new with a pencil in a more desirable position as to take stress off a possible weak point around or past the toe cap. I think I will try that on any new cordovan shoes I pick up, just in case.
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