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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. ChiliPalmer

    ChiliPalmer Senior member

    Messages:
    634
    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2006
    Can someone explain the difference, if there is one, between Saphir Renovateur and Venetian Shoe Cream?
     
  2. GoBlue

    GoBlue Active Member

    Messages:
    28
    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2009
    Location:
    MN
    In boot camp we used our tshirts and spit to get that mirror, it worked great.

    Things they didn't tell you, or that came as a surprise

    N.B. This list has been constantly added to. Probably best not to quote it:

    • All shades of red/burgundy wax tend to bleed like hell and rub off on trousers.

    • Saphir MdO cream polish (soft stuff) left to dry for too long is difficult to polish out. Especially if it's a lighter colour and stuck in the darker welt area.

    • When you do apply Saphir MdO cream, don't head for the seams after you first load the cloth. I always start on a clear expanse first, then work the excess out towards any seams. Failure to do this can see seams and stitching caked in a solidified gunk. Trying to remove it can bugger up the mirror.This applies to the wax as well

    • Saphir wax doesn't have an overpowering smell. Washes off skin fairly easily.

    • Saphir Renovateur is best applied with your bare fingers (maybe a tiny brush to get into the welt). The warmth of the fingers will help it penetrate and spread. Any other method will waste the precious stuff to the cloth. Washes off skin VERY easily.

    • Thicker felt cloth might be great for overall rubbing & polishing, but the thinner, cheaper stuff is best for a mirror shine. Might have something to do with the thirstier wicking properties of spongier felt. Even a quick dab seems to suck up and absorb much more than the required water drop.

    • If you're really getting nowhere with the mirror shine... go to bed. Leaving the wax to harden overnight can - coupled with bright morning sunlight - make all the difference. The cooler the room, the longer left, the harder the set.

    • Hitting a mirror shined shoe with hard bristles can pit the surface. This is recoverable damage, but easily avoided by keeping the brush away from heels and toecap.

    • I've never had a 'flaking' shoe/boot. All multi (micro thin) coats are kept to the heels/toecaps. Flexible parts are kept conditioned and given coats only as necessary.

    • When left with a wax dotted piece of felt, instead of chucking it out, use this immediately as a pre-charged rubbing cloth for flexible parts. It'll impart the slightest of wax coats to the leather, until you decide to do your proper coat.

    • Most people seem to apply too much wax, using coats that are too thick.

    • Whenever you come in: shoes off, trees in, wipe entire shoe with moist (not wet) cloth. I use the strip of spent felt from above. No matter how clean the shoe appears, you'll always remove a thin layer of dust and dirt. Get into the welt etc. Please be extra gentle over the mirrored parts. You don't want to dull them. Barely touch with the moist felt. I usually add a single three minute wax swirl in the morning. This always brings it back to a perfect mirrored state. Now put aside and leave overnight to dry.

    • A mirror shine is a delicate thing. The slightest of knocks will leave a scuff. surface rubs are easily rectified. Deep gouges into the wax can be a pain to get rid of.

    • If your mirror polished shoes get rained on, just learn to live with it for the rest of that day. Any attempt to dry, polish or shine a wet shoe will immediately dull the mirrored finish. If on the other hand they get dusty during a dry, hot day, then a gentle dust over with a felt cloth can help.

    • What works for one person may not work for you. I've seen people use old rough t-shirts to produce a fantastic mirror. They just never work for me. I've also seen some use cotton wool balls and iced water. Can't get this to work either.

    • Don't go filling a container with inches of water. Barely cover the bottom with a millimetre or two. That way your tightly wrapped finger can safely stab the bottom of the vessel without getting the felt saturated. Dabbing the polish first creates a barrier to having a soaked felt. It also seems easier to regulate the size and number of water droplets. However, I'm sure some do it the other way around with amazing results. Too much water is one of the major causes of mirror shine failure.

    • Fluffy fabric (felt etc) rubbed on Renovateur can drag, leaving bits of lint on the shoe. I'll often use a white handkerchief to do this (20p each from the Pound Shop). Then once I have a smoother friction free surface I'll swap for the felt.

    • Filling my wax tin lid with water causes it to rust.

    • If you simply have to stock up on duplicate tins of Saphir wax, put these reserves into sealed ziploc bags to keep them from drying out.

    • After much effort, when you have your perfect mirror shine, you can touch up with one or two swirls whenever you feel like it. You won't have to worry about building up the layers anymore. It'll be fine tuning from now on. Be delicate. Go for longer swirling sessions using warm breath and water with less wax. Keep turning the shoe into the natural light if possible. As I mentioned above: good lighting can save you from destroying a perfectly good mirror shine. Don't be fooled by shadows and a poorly lit room.

    • If you have a brand new pair of shoes, don't try to mirror shine them straight from the box. You need creases to set into position first. I'd treat them to lots of conditioning and wearing during the first week. Polish them as you would for a regular shine. After a week maybe do a few swirling coats before wearing them again the next day. Then check for flex points, cracking etc. Use your eyes and common sense.

    • There comes a point where additional coats won't increase the shine. Some wait until they can read the reflected time from a wristwatch. I like to wait until I can count (and classify according to colour) reflected nasal hairs

    • Most importantly: if someone steps onto your mirror polished shoe, murder is not an option. You must accept it as 'The Way of the Mirror'.

    Lear

    Edit: 20p each from the Pound Shop. Oops [​IMG]
     
  3. Lear

    Lear Senior member

    Messages:
    681
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2007
    In boot camp we used our tshirts and spit to get that mirror, it worked great.

    Yep, this has been standard practice over the decades. The army spit & polish always looks impressive. [​IMG]

    Saphir in the UK
    Also, just placed my order here: http://www.afinepairofshoes.com/collections/accessories

    Lear
     
  4. deejonaze

    deejonaze Member

    Messages:
    20
    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2011
    i've asked this question before but still haven't a clear answer: what do you use on the sole/edge of a cordovan shoe when the color of edge seems to be cordovan also?
     
  5. cbfn

    cbfn Senior member

    Messages:
    2,033
    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2010
    Location:
    Norway
    I'm thinking about getting both the Lexol Conditioner and Cleaner, and wondered; what is the cleaner for? Removing wax etc.? And how often do I use it?
    Thanks for all your help, this forum is so good, I can waste my whole day in here!
     
  6. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,434
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2008
    Location:
    Rochester, NY
    In boot camp we used our tshirts and spit to get that mirror, it worked great.

    That's what i do.

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

    Messages:
    3,865
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2008
    ^ Can we get a pic of your mirror shined Brummells? [​IMG]
     
  8. tang

    tang Active Member

    Messages:
    26
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    Location:
    Singapore
    This is my first post after lurking in styleforum for a few months. Just wanna say that this is one hell of a dangerous site, once you start, there's no turning back, i'm intending to purchase some shoe care products already.

    Thanks for the contributions, found this to be an excellent thread.
     
  9. Lear

    Lear Senior member

    Messages:
    681
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2007
    That's what i do.

    Jefferyd, that's magnificent. I take my hat off to you [​IMG]

    Lear
     
  10. elgreco

    elgreco Senior member

    Messages:
    725
    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2008
    Location:
    Baltimore
    Can someone recommend a good suede brush?

    Thanks.
     
  11. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

    Messages:
    8,666
    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2008
    Can someone recommend a good suede brush?

    I use a normal shoe brush, for regular "dusting" and "correcting the nap". I have a crepe one too, but never use it.
     
  12. elgreco

    elgreco Senior member

    Messages:
    725
    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2008
    Location:
    Baltimore
    I use a normal shoe brush, for regular "dusting" and "correcting the nap". I have a crepe one too, but never use it.

    So a good horsehair brush and a gommadin eraser should cover basic suede care for now?
     
  13. srivats

    srivats Senior member

    Messages:
    3,907
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2008
    ^ I just use this brush from alden and it seems to be fine. I don't see the point of using eraser on suede.
     
  14. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

    Messages:
    8,666
    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2008
    So a good horsehair brush and a gommadin eraser should cover basic suede care for now?

    In my opinion/experience: yes. I don't know about the eraser:


    ^ I just use this brush from alden and it seems to be fine. I don't see the point of using eraser on suede.

    Doesn't it work for stains/dark spots? I was thinking of ordering one.
     
  15. alexSF

    alexSF Senior member

    Messages:
    1,437
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2009
    Location:
    Italy
    The eraser can do a good work for small stains.

    I have the saphir gommadin and also the collonil "cleaner".

    I prefer the collonil that is more friable and works very well , the gommadin is too hard and does not clean in the same way.
     
  16. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

    Messages:
    8,666
    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2008
    Thanks, Alex. I'll look for the Collonil.
     
  17. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,434
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2008
    Location:
    Rochester, NY
    ...

    Lear


    Thank you.


    ^ Can we get a pic of your mirror shined Brummells? [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  18. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

    Messages:
    8,666
    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2008
    ^
    Very nice, Jeffery.


    * * *

    Probably not the most popular shoes here, but a daddy needs shoes to play football
    with junior. This is what they looked like (older picture, but that's what they looked
    like today):

    [​IMG]


    The sneakers are more than four years old and remained rather dry after their normal
    treatment: a brush and some suede spray every now and then. So, I wanted to feed
    them a little. I'm not sure what kind of leather this is (nubuck?), but it's obviously not
    hairy suede. Here they are after a first layer of RÃ[​IMG]novateur (the white wonder balm),
    not dried yet:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Here they are after another treatment with RÃ[​IMG]novateur, drying and a wipe with a
    cloth. They (look and) feel healthy again, so I think this experiment was succesful.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  19. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

    Messages:
    8,666
    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2008
    Did I scare you?
     
  20. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

    Messages:
    3,865
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2008
    ^ Very nice, Jeffery.

    +1, nice shoes, great shine.

    Did I scare you?

    Yes you did. [​IMG]
     

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