**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. kloss

    kloss Senior member

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    How do I prevent divot marks from developing on the insoles of my shoes? I am referring to the divots seen in vintage shoes on eBay and such. The marks are far too small to have been caused by a heel? How does it develop over time?
     


  2. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    Can you post a photo or link with an example?
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2013


  3. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    ? Divots from hand welting construction around the fore foot area??
     


  4. kloss

    kloss Senior member

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  5. kloss

    kloss Senior member

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  6. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    It's hard to say for sure, but there seems to be a relatively consistent pattern there. The indentations or "divots" are in the sock liner, which is simply a thin piece of leather and foam covering the heel area of the actual leather insole. In most manufacturers of quality Goodyear-welted footwear, the heels are nailed on, either from the bottom up, or from the inside down (or both). Either way, the sock liner is there to cover up the unsightly nails and protect the heel from discomfort from them. Particularly when the nails are driven from the inside of the shoe down into the heel, the force from the machine leaves small indentations in the leather insole where each nail is. I would imagine that in shoes that are very worn (like the ones in your pictures), after the foam and leather from the sock liner gets old and compressed, you may be able to see the indentations showing through to the surface of the sock liner.

    As for the soles turning black... I wouldn't go so far as using the term "rot" in most cases. That's probably going to be extreme in most cases. It is normal for leather soles to get very dark after years of wear in areas that don't directly contact the ground on a regular basis, thus exposing fresh leather with each wear. The waist of the sole may contact surfaces infrequently (like when going down stairs, or walking over high spots like thresholds, going up or down curbs, etc.) Inevitably, they pick up dirt, they get wet when walking in the rain, etc. Since they aren't contacting abrasive surfaces regularly to expose fresh leather, they darken and take on the hardened look you see.

    If the part of the sole that always contacts the ground is very dark, then that is likely just because the previous owner walked on indoor surfaces (less abrasive) much more frequently than outdoor surfaces (highly abrasive). If you buy a pair of new shoes and wear them indoors on hard surfaces, dirty floors, linoleum, public restrooms, etc., they will get dark and gross looking. Walking outside is what wears that off.
     


  7. kloss

    kloss Senior member

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    Thanks. That was educational. I suppose that explains why the sock liner can turn black as well.
     


  8. Munky

    Munky Senior member

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    'Divot' is a lovely word but is it being used correctly here? I though a divot was a sort of lump of grass - the sort that is often kicked up by golfers. I suppose these distinctions of meaning don't really matter as long as everyone knows what is being talked about.
    Yours faithfully,
    A. Pedant
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2013


  9. kentyman

    kentyman Senior member

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    See definition #2: http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/divot

    Honestly, I've only heard divot refer to the hole itself, not the thing that was removed to make the hole. Possibly an American/British English difference.
     


  10. David Copeland

    David Copeland Senior member

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    San Francisco?

    Then the best shine is at "A Shine & Company", featured on local news. (They also are in New York)

    Here is their link: A Shine & Company Locations

    (They also use Saphir Products)
     


  11. Munky

    Munky Senior member

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    If it's not a rude question, why do people buy beaten up old shoes on e-bay? Surely shoes wear in around a particular person's foot? Wouldn't it be better to wait until you have the money for a new pair?
     


  12. Fang66

    Fang66 Senior member

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    Replace your divots is a universal golffe expression. The hole is a divot, and the piece of grass is a divot.
     


  13. basiameda

    basiameda Active Member

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    Ironically, I have a question concerning a #8 Tassel Loafer I picked up from eBay. These loafers crease and fold in a similar way on both shoes but my right foot is borderline D/E and accentuates the pattern from the previous owner resulting in bowing.

    [​IMG]

    Can a cobbler do anything to fix this? If i send them in for Alden Restoration, will this fold pattern go away when the shoes are relasted?
     


  14. kwhitelaw

    kwhitelaw Senior member

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    for some (myself included), it's a cheaper way to try out a particular last that may or may not work longterm. saves me money.

    in some cases, a well broken in shoe might need a resole. that might score a new buyer a much lower price, which, after the resole (and possible upper recondition) during resole replacement, could net the new buyer a decent savings over brand new retail pricing.
     


  15. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Don't bother. The last is not for you.
     


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