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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Naked leather like that burnishes because it almost acts as litmus paper when something with a higher ph than the leather itself comes in contact with it. The key is to try touching it up with something acidic to bring the ph back below it's isoelectric point such as vinegar.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    PB, do you do anything to care for your Buttero? I do exactly nothing and love the result...
     
  3. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well, mine are black, so they don't really "patina" the same way. I basically just conditioned them once, and just brush them now and again.
     
  4. dlind

    dlind Senior member

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    Fair enough.
     
  5. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    Vass's are better made shoes than StC which are betterthan GG's.. capisce
     
  6. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Do we even know that? I know for one that I don't like the waists on Vass shoes.
     
  7. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    Are we talking of style or construction?
     
  8. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well, I can't comment on the construction. As far as I know they are both par in terms of construction. I am saying, I don't like the waists on them. That is somewhat stylistic and somewhat not. A tighter waist feels better on my very high arches and I also don't like the look.
     
  9. dlind

    dlind Senior member

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    Nope not on par, Vass hand stitches the soles while StC does that by machine so if we follow the same logic as we did before then construction vise Vass > StC. Also I think, but i'm not sure, that StC buys insoles with the feather already pre cut instead of cutting it by hand which is the traditional way and is supposed to create a stronger feather. (Not 100% sure my terminology is correct, if it isn't I apologise.)
     
  10. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    Construction wise Vass is a one man one shoe type of deal, where in he does everything from start to finish apart from clicking. Just like the Mercedes AMG engines. I think there are certain merits to this process.
    STC is equally well constructed but IMO there are small nuances that VAss stands out in this regard.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2014
  11. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    No arguments there. Still don't like their waists. Also, many people have expressed issues with their leather uppers not being cut from great quality hides, or poor areas. Haven't experienced it myself, however.
     
  12. dlind

    dlind Senior member

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    I wouldn't go as far as to say poor areas but it seems logical that they use more of the hide then StC given the price point.
     
  13. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    People are entitled to their opinion, however I personally have yet to see any examples of poor skin being used for their counters etc. Hell even their tongue cut out for the oxford which is not one piece with the vamp seems to be same quality as the vamp leather.
     
  14. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    There are several examples on Style Forum.
     
  15. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I've no desire to get into the middle of a discussion of the relative merits of these two makers but I will observe that the premium look and best practices dictates smaller, tighter, outsole stitching...whether it be by hand or machine...rather than long, clunky, in-your-face outsole stitching even if it is done by hand.

    I once had a dance teacher tell me something that I suspect applies across the board, to any aspect of craft or art--"large gestures (movements) look clumsy even if they are intended."

    Fact of the matter is...in my opinion...hand-stitching (and I offer it at 11-12spi) brings very little to the game that isn't superficial...and thereby subjective. For me, that's reason enough to learn and master the technique but for the customer, I'm not so sure it's moot.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2014
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  16. dlind

    dlind Senior member

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    I agree that it's certainly doesn't make that big of a difference but I was merely pointing out the differences. What is your opinion of pre-cut insoles vs. cutting the feather yourself?
     
  17. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    The maker forfeits control whenever he buys pre-made components whether they be insoles or heel stacks or toe stiffeners...or even the inseam itself--in the form of gemming.

    He has no way to control the quality of the leather or how wide the feather should be etcetra. The thing is that precut insoles are only viable in RTW work...where a fixed last size and bottom paper can set the parameters for how the channel and holdfast are cut. It cannot work for bespoke work.

    On a bespoke shoe, the feather may want to be cut as much as twice as wide in the waist as around the forepart. To do that you need to know the precise dimensions of the last and be able to not only vary the width of the feather but blend it into the rest of the feather.
     
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  18. Craft

    Craft Member

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    Nothing to do with shoe care but I like the consistent contributors to this thread. Found some shoes on amazon by angel cola, they look very nice but looking for an opinion. Also I polished a pair of shoes I bought recently (this is shoe care related) there was an effect I achived on one shoe which I wish to replicate in the other but im not sure what I did. Priducts used all saphir - renovateur, light brown polish and way (thier high end line I guess). On one shoe one the actual brogueing and on the toe box there is a beautiful darkening / burn look to it which adds dimension and really adds to the shoe. However the other is more uniform and doesnt have this effect (ill try and get photos up later but this is urking me right now) I did nothing diffrent to ether except the one with the desired effect had some more renovateur added (found on discount rack amd the right shoe was rather dry) if u know what im describing a response of hiw to get this burn /darkening in desired places would be appreciated.
     
  19. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    St. Crispin's insoles are not pre-cut.
     
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  20. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    But isn't there a tradition aspect to this, viz a viz Austro Hungarian more of long stitches as opposed to English? In the same vein I find Japanese bespoke work probaly having the closest and finest of stiches and finishing but would you call that superior to all? I dont think so...
     

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