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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. masernaut

    masernaut Senior member

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    Those are in wonderful condition! I wish I could find this kind of stuff at Value Village (I am also from Canada). Do what Benhour has said already, but as for the heels, both cobblers and Benhour are correct.
    The heels and soles look to be in great condition which should give you a long time of travels before resoling is required. The problem with nailed leather heels is that they are extremely slippery on carpets and waxed floors. They can also cause damage to hardwood. Replacing the heels with rubber heels will prevent all of that from happening.
     


  2. fromega

    fromega Member

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    Thanks, fellas. It's both heels that need work, for sure. They're are worn down at the back edge, but the rest of the sole should be fine once toe taps are in place. Should I be asking/warning the cobbler about the anything before getting the heels replaced, or is it really just a standard job? I'd prefer if the repairs done are kept in line with the original work as much as possible.
     


  3. name

    name Senior member

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    Does this thread have a sticky? (We should make one in the first post.) Or am I supposed to read through all 460 pages or how it is supposed to work? Thanks.

    How are you supposed to take care of the inside of your shoes if you intend them to last for 20 years? How about using lightweight odor-reducing insoles (such as Scholl) even if your feet are not that stinky? ;)
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2013


  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    We want your shoes to last 20 years so when you have your estate sale we can cop em' for cheap! ;)
     


  5. name

    name Senior member

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  6. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Mink oil and beeswax serve two different purposes for shoe care and aren't mutually exclusive for proper shoe care. Mink oil is a conditioner, whereas beeswax is what raises a shine and gives protection against a bit of moisture.
     


  7. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    Excuse my ignorance, but I'm not sure what you mean by a "sticky."

    As for the care of the inside of your shoes... Keep wooden shoe trees in them whenever you aren't wearing them. Rub some conditioner into the lining and insole periodically (I try to about twice a year). If your feet aren't very stinky, then you shouldn't need an odor reducing insole, and the insole will change fit characteristics. If you don't need an insole for fit reasons, I'd stay away from them. Use cedar shoe trees instead of some other wood, to help keep them smelling good.
     


  8. Lirum

    Lirum Senior member

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    afaik, a sticky would be a directory of all the good posts in this thread. Usually used for reference or to get someone running quickly instead of sifting through hundreds of pages.
     


  9. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    I assumed as much. I guess I also could have Googled it. [​IMG]
     


  10. Munky

    Munky Senior member

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    I will leave you my shoes in my will, Patrick, but I fear you might want to give them to a charity shop! [​IMG]
     


  11. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  12. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    This response did remind me that I've been meaning to ask the input of the others in this thread on conditioning the inside of your shoes. While I do what I said above, I never look forward to it. I have yet to figure out an easy way to condition the insides of my shoes. I get quite frustrated with trying to condition the inside from the ball of the foot area forward. You can't see what you are doing, because your hand is in the way. Stuffing your hand into your shoe and then "blindly" trying to rub in the conditioner, while making sure that you aren't missing areas while over conditioning other areas is my issue. Inevitably, I dab some conditioner onto the cloth and then as I'm reaching into the shoe, half of it gets rubbed off somewhere else before I can get to the area that I'm aiming for. Not to mention the lint that turns the whole process into a sloppy mess. I try to reach in and pinch out the lint that accumulates in front of the toes, but there is always a dusty residue left, and the conditioner soaks it into some sort of a putty. I even tried vacuuming it out with a vacuum nozzle once, but the angle wouldn't quite reach properly.

    Maybe I would have better luck with cotton balls rather than a rag?

    Maybe I should start working on patenting a vacuum nozzle that is shaped like the forepart of a shoe tree! [​IMG]
     


  13. Numbernine

    Numbernine Senior member

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    I think pB mentioned a method for that a couple days ago. Or was that another thread
     


  14. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    Hmm... I didn't see it here. Let me know if you find it, or maybe Patrick will chime in.
     


  15. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I turn the shoes upside down at an angle, (the shoe opening pointing towards the ground with the sole at about a 45 degree angle) and I literally pour Lexol on the underside of the tongue so it acts as a slide for the conditioner into the shoe. Then I just get my hand in there and blindly wipe it on the ball area of the upper lining and everywhere else. It does a good job of absorbing everything just using your hand. If it doesn't you can just shove an old t shirt in there to absorb the rest. I don't over think it really, doing this is better than doing nothing. I then put the trees back in so that should absorb extra as well.

    I would be careful doing this on shoes that use gemming. If you get too much conditioner in there and it seeps in between the insole and upper lining it can loosen the glue that holds the gemming in place causing it to shift when you get a resole.
     


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