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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. Munky

    Munky Senior member

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    On the Crocket and Jones website, they have a fairly standard video about how to care for your shoes. However, the man doing the cleaning puts a very considerable amount of polish on the shoes, using a brush. He also puts cream on the sole of the shoes.

    This seems to go against the idea of 'less is more' but he certainly gets a great shine on the shoes he is cleaning. I had never seen anyone treating the soles of shoes in this way. Given that the man is the manager of the C&J Paris shop, he should know what he is talking about, I guess.
     
  2. Munky

    Munky Senior member

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    Welcome back, VegTan. I love the fact that you have access to these interesting, if arcane, documents. The ones, above, on proper fitting shoes and boots will be useful for a lot of people.
     
  3. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ^ It is all "hanger appeal". What looks good sells, doesn't mean it is better.
     
  5. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    I assume you are talking about the C&J video Munky was referencing? I like that video, as it's very hypnotizing, with the classical music playing in the background. But, I agree that he seems to use a lot of product. The product on the soles was brought up the other day, and some of us chimed in that we don't do that, but none of the real experts ever said anything.
     
  6. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I will put some conditioner like Lexol, or Obenauf's Leather Oil on my soles only if they happen to get wet and soaked, otherwise anything to soften the soles will make them wear faster.

    I do however polishing the sole in the arch area that doesn't touch the ground. I have pegged waists on my St. Crispin's (along with my initials pegged because I am a prick like that) and it keeps it looking nice and shiny.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  7. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    That is the logic I subscribe to as well. I've never had soles crack because of seldom wear. My oldest pair of shoes (which is an outlier in age) is 14 years old, and their soles aren't showing signs of cracking.
     
  8. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have experienced soles cracking. They were a pair of shoes I just used for wet weather and I never conditioned them. Thereafter I always conditioned after letting them dry on their sides.
     
  9. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Maybe I missed that discussion but just from a practical POV, using something like Bick4 on your outsoles probably can't hurt. But anything with a heavy oil or fat base will simply soften the outsole and make it wear away quicker esp. on pavement and even in wet weather when despite the waterproofing they get saturated. Even silicone based products.

    The water and the oil work the same way--loosening the fiber mat and softening the connective tissue.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2014
  10. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    I should clarify my comment above. The pair I mentioned has certainly been worn in plenty of wet weather (perhaps not the norm, but also not necessarily rare). I just meant that most of my soles will wear out in normal fashion because I wear them frequently enough such that the soles don't need replacement due to anything other than being truly worn out. The outlier being my pair that is now 14 years old, and still on their original soles, which aren't showing signs of cracking.
     
  11. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I guess just like regular conversations about conditioning shoes. There is that fine line between softening too much and being so rigid that it cracks. One of the secrets of the universe. :revolve:
     
  12. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    That is the logic I've subscribed to in refraining from using anything, though I've never used Bick4. Given what I said above, do you think I would derive any benefit from even something like Bick4 if I wear through my soles before they seem to experience any adverse effects from moisture? In other words, will something like Bick4 impart anything desirable in my case?
     
  13. JezeC

    JezeC Senior member

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    These illustrations doesn't show that this particular pair shoe is too big or small for the feet, but rather the shoe-last is not ideal for his feet.
     
  14. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    You're right, the illustrations don't speak to reasons (as I said in my above post). But the photos provided by the OC (original questioner) clearly show that for some reason...almost certainly one of the two I outlined...his medial ball joint is not synchronizing with the corresponding position on the last or the insole (which is cut to the last).

    If the heel to ball measurement on the last doesn't correspond to the heel to ball measurement on the foot the last is "not ideal for the foot"...and never will be. That's an absolute no matter what foot or what shoe.

    If the tread width does not correspond to the weight bearing footprint in the joint area, the last is "not ideal for the foot"...another absolute. (Although too narrow a tread width will not create that particular problem if the girth is correct).

    There's simply not many other reasons, if any, that those creases would develop.

    --
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2014
  15. pwhinson

    pwhinson Well-Known Member

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    I've taken extraordinarily good care of my AE Strands but I'm considering whether its worth the money to invest $150 to have them recrafted given what appears to be paper thin leather on either side of the upper part of the vamp. I've always used Saphir products and this morning I applied renomat to strip all waxes, then applied renovateur to the area pictured in the photo with no other creme or wax applied - just renovateur. This is not creasing as much as it is "crinkling" - again almost like paper.

    Is this due to inferior leather or is this the result of normal wear and tear that would show up in any shoe. Wondering whether it would be wise to ebay these for $80 and then put the $230 toward a pair of Carmina's or Edward Green (having graduated to those higher quality shoes of which I now have a sample of each, as well as a couple of pair of Lobbs). On the plus side I do love the design of the AE Strand. What say you? Opinions? Is this an improper care issue, or the quality of leather, or "normal"? Of course it probably shouldn't bother me but have shoe OCD, it does.

    [​IMG]
     
  16. pwhinson

    pwhinson Well-Known Member

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    One more thought - I wonder if I had used renomat to strip them on a regular basis and reapply renovateur, would this condition still have developed (or is it the result of too much wax buildup for too long?) Again the photo again has NO wax or creme applied, only renovateur, and then brushed.
     
  17. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Leather behavior is weird. Hard to say about the cause and quality, but in handling many different brands of mid level and high end shoes I would put AE's at the bottom of my list. I would get some new ones if it bothers you that much, but I don't see this as being a problem. They won't explode or anything.

    Question, why did you strip all of the waxes off with renomat? I can't really understand one doing this unless they are preparing their shoes to be recolored or something.
     
  18. pwhinson

    pwhinson Well-Known Member

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    I stripped the shoes because I thought what I might be seeing is a surface of cracking wax. Also - to clarify - I would not be having them recrafted due to the uppers, rather the simply need new soles and heels.
     
  19. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'd vote new shoes, but that vote is based on more than just that wrinkled section. I dislike AE's for a lot of reasons.
     

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