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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    I'd just leave them as they are.

    Shell is beautiful because its shell. Just roll with it and learn to love them.
     
  2. Murph65

    Murph65 Member

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  3. ovlov

    ovlov Senior member

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    Few quick questions guys. I'm still pretting new to polishing my own shoes and hitting a steep learning curve.

    1. To save a little time tried dabbing some small spots of renovatuer on my tan shoes last night before rubbing in all over. Afterwards I noticed there was discoloration where the spots were. Is thus fixable or have I ruined my shoes? :(

    2. My first try at a glass shine. How many layers of wax do you usually need? And is it ok to do say 3-4 layers per day over a few days (without wearing the shoes obv) or will this not get me anywhere?

    3. Ah also. Once I reach the stage where I am polishing with wax+water, should I still be leaving the shoe to dry for bit between each layer? And should I buff after adding each layer or just on the last coat?

    Thanks in advance
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2014
  4. JezeC

    JezeC Senior member

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    Are vibram heels one of the best in the shoe industry? Are they better than the standard heels used in formal allen edmond shoes such as the Park avenue?
     
  5. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Senior member

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    My boots (AS Fordhams) after a salty Chicago long weekend where they were worn and not cleaned until I returned (about 4 days worth of wear): [​IMG] After a simple cleaning with white vinegar/water and conditioner/polish:
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
    Nothing like Crat's shine but I did want to show the durability of leather.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2014
    4 people like this.
  6. Stirling

    Stirling Senior member

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    It shows that you don't need expensive products to remove the salt. Although I'm sure there are a few gents here who'll need to know what type of vinegar, where the water came from, precisely which conditioner and the brand of polish. After all these will become the grail products that we will all need to buy, otherwise our shoes will crumble into dust.
     
    2 people like this.
  7. dannyg1000

    dannyg1000 Active Member

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    They're APC's fyi.

    Hi. Just picked up a pair of these bad boys nearly brand new from a resale place in my city. My question is, how should I store them? I'm not sure if I should use a shoe tree since they have that zipper and those boot shapers also don't seem ideal since I would like to have something that also maintains the shape of the toe. Any thoughts?
     
  8. BootSpell

    BootSpell Senior member

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    I think I remember someone commented back awhile ago that they believed boots that did not have laces (like cowboy boots, Chelsea boots, pull on boots, or ones like these) should not be treed. Something about that these boots develop a "curl" as they break in and as such lessen the heel slip that one encounters when first wearing these types of boots. Using trees would straighten them out and possibly cause more heel slip than if one didn't use trees.

    Please don't accept what I've written as an endorsement to not use trees in your boots. Try searching this thread. Sorry, can't remember who it was.
     
  9. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    I use a tree in my chelsea boots...and I was look at some Corthay chelsea boots in NYC this past weekend and they had trees in them.

    I'd say if Pierre Corthay uses trees in his chelsea boots...thats an endorsement for using them in chelsea boots.
     
  10. dannyg1000

    dannyg1000 Active Member

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    You don't think the zipper on my boots will get stressed from shoe tree?
     
  11. BootSpell

    BootSpell Senior member

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    Why not get trees that are a bit smaller than one would normally get so at least you get the wood absorbing in the toe box but without the pressure against the heel.
     
  12. dannyg1000

    dannyg1000 Active Member

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    that's a good idea
     
  13. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    Trees shouldn't be so large that they really stretch the shoe...if they fit properly I don't think you will have to worry about your zipper.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. namdaemun

    namdaemun Senior member

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    Hey

    I simply can't polish shoes as well or as nicely as my cobbler does. I typically use saddle soap to clean, then use conditioner (AE's), then I'll add polish or sometimes crème (what are the adv's of use one over the other?), and then brush

    Am I doing something wrong? I don't use Saphir or anything of that quality. It's simple Melatonin cream or AE's polish.

    Anyone? Thanks
     
  15. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Don't use Saddle Soap. You shouldn't really be needing to "clean" your shoes past a brushing unless they get seriously dirty. Use cream polish for the whole shoe and work some wax on the toe and heel, buffing, or bulling.
     
  16. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Some saddlesoap is tallow based. It will leave a greasy residue on the surface. Some saddle soaps are glycerin based, they will leave a sticky and slightly slippery residue. If saddle soap is used at all it should be regarded as a soap and thoroughly rinsed off and the shoes allowed to dry before further treatment....(on edit) such as polishing.

    --
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2014
  17. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    DW, would you mind expounding upon your definition of thoroughly rinsed in this context? I'm wondering if you are hinting at using running water. I don't use saddle soap very often (with the exception of one belt that I use it on fairly regularly), but generally, I just use a moist cloth to rub off the excess after it's dry, then follow up with a horsehair brush. Do you think it needs more rinsing that that? The same question for shoes on the very rare chance that I do use it.

    Thanks!
     
  18. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    IIRC, regular old fashioned soap is made from fats mixed with lye. Saddlesoap like Properts is compounded much like regular soap--it's supposed to be used with water...at least enough to work up a lather. And that means a very wet sponge or running water. The glycerin bars are intended to work up a lather as well. Lexol-ph is formulated very much like ph-balanced baby shampoo (which makes a fine leather cleaner, BTW). Again lathering and rinsing is indicated.

    It is not automatically harmful to rinse leather with running water...lots of processes in making shoes or working leather are entirely dependent on getting the leather wet. Shoes, however, tend to have inconsistent areas of absorption after they have been worn awhile simply because of all the polish (wax) build-up. The water will not by itself have any deleterious effects esp. if the shoes are conditioned immediately after washing/rinsing--while the leather is still wet. The real problem is water stains that may result from heavy absorption in one area and less in another...again conditioning can go a long way towards preventing that.

    If you're concerned, again using a very wet sponge is a good solution.

    But the bottom line is that leaving the tallow or glycerin residues on shoes is not good. If nothing else, it will collect dust and grit and accelerate cracking.

    And you can't get either a high or a long lasting shine over grease.

    When you get right down to it, it's worth remembering that saddlesoap was formulated for saddles.
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2014
  19. anrobit

    anrobit Senior member

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    Why must the shoe be conditioned while still wet?
     
  20. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Conditioner doesn't have to be applied to wet leather. The advice was only in the context of washing (and rinsing) shoes.

    The conditioner will slow the evaporation rate and allow the water to spread out through the fibers of the leather more evenly. It helps to prevent water stains.

    Water stains are the result of salts and other chemicals dissolving in the water and being transported to the interface between wet and dry. One such interface is the grain surface of the leather. Another is the edge of the wet area. If water evaporates too quickly, the stain occurs just at that interface. Such stains can be difficult, sometimes impossible, to remove.

    Casual washing and rinsing may not create water stains but it is always better to be safe rather than sorry. Hence the conditioner.

    In any case, applying the conditioner while the leather is wet won't hurt anything. In fact, when the pores are open and cleansed of residual oils and waxes the conditioner will enter the leather more easily.
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2014
    3 people like this.

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