**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Just google clifton captoe. Over time they just mold to your feet.
     


  2. OzzyJones

    OzzyJones Senior member

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    Put Barker Black in the search tho or you'll get all sorts of nonsense!
    The cap is proportionally really short IMO. I like em tho
     


  3. David Copeland

    David Copeland Senior member

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    There are all sorts of great style available . . . and some of the them at great discounts coming in a few weeks.

    Are you looking for casual or dress styles . . . what sort of use? And how do you feel about building a collection where you can rotate your shoes to ensure many more years of quality wear?

    David
     


  4. JermynStreet

    JermynStreet Senior member

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    AEs and CHs are like Fleming's and Applebees; offensive to put in the same category. But while we're on the subject, I'd say that Aldens are Mortons and John Lobb bespoke is like French Laundry.
     


  5. David Copeland

    David Copeland Senior member

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    Absolutely.

    There are others who may say just wear them until you're ready to perform some maintenance. But adding some products to your new shoes before taking them for a walk has been my best choice.

    Take a look at a video that I posted yesterday in Post #5794 on Page 387 of this same thread. The first portion gives some great ideas on "Pre-Maintenance".

    Enjoy your week,

    David
     


  6. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    I see. Ok thanks.
     


  7. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

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  8. Munky

    Munky Senior member

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    What exactly is the difference between handmade shoes and non hand made shoes, in terms of production? Can any shoes be made only by machine? Video clips suggest not. For example, a clip of Dr Martens, shoes shoe processes very similar to 'handmade' shoe production. I can appreciate that there are differences in qualities of crafting and in qualities of leathers used. However, these, alone, don't address the issue of what is handmade and what is not.
     


  9. benhour

    benhour Senior member

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    David i think you are way off the question he did!!! pls read his question again!!! he is asking about products to use on a brand new calf skin double monk and not what style to bay!!!(we are in the shoe care thread,so the question is about shoe care and premesures)
     


  10. Garasaki

    Garasaki Senior member

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    Indeed, what he said. I was asking what I should do to my new pair of calfshin double monks. Thank you David Copeland for kindly providing a constructive answer to that question. Much appriciated!

    Also you make a good point about building a rotating collection - which is what I am doing. I'm also intrigued by your comment regarding deep discounts - can you expand?
     


  11. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    Most processes in shoe making can be done by machine with results that are just as good (sometimes better) than hand-made equivalents from a utilitarian perspective. On the flip side, some maintain that a hand-lasted shoe is better than a machine lasted shoe, for example. There are differing opinions on all of this. It is obvious that a shoe that is completely made by hand has the ability to have attention to detail given to each and every aspect of it (assuming the shoemaker does this), and thus may be better than a machine-made one.

    A Goodyear-welted shoe is a product of the industrial revolution and the implementation of machines to accomplish what was formerly done only by hand (hand-welted). There are still plenty of hands involved in making a Goodyear-welted shoe as you can see in any video or photo. Most of the aspects of a Goodyear-welted shoe are "accepted" by everyone as being sufficient with the exception of the use of a canvas rib (gemming) that is used to attach the welt to the bottom of the insole. There are complete threads devoted to this topic in StyleForum and Ask Andy if you want to do some light reading. Gemming is inferior to hand-welting, but that doesn't mean that a gemmed shoe is necessarily a ticking time bomb as some would have you believe. Hand-welting uses a holdfast that is carved out of the bottom of the leather insole and serves as an attachment point for the welt, which can't be done by machine. Machines mandated the creation of alternative ways to attach the welt to the insole, the first of which was a very thin turned up piece of leather cut from a thinner insole (called a "feather"), which eventually gave way to the nearly universal use of canvas gemming. JM Weston still uses a feather system I believe, but they are one of the only companies that still does.

    As you said, you can appreciate the differences in qualities of crafting and in qualities of leathers used. That accounts for most of the differences between hand-made vs. machine made high-end shoes as far as the utilitarian results are concerned. However, the old-world craft of making shoes by hand is something that needs to be preserved and appreciated. A hand-made shoe can be quite a work of art, and the craftsmanship can be amazing. D.W. Frommer is one of the best around, if you aren't familiar with him (google search him). His SF username is DWFII.

    Determining what is hand-made and what is not is a slippery slope. Most makers of Goodyear-welted shoes maintain that their shoes are hand-made, using machines. However, this makes a bespoke shoemaker (using only hand tools, leather, and thread) absolutely furious. This begs the question though... at what point does a tool cross the line of becoming an unacceptable machine, thus no longer being hand-made? Look up Machine on Wikipedia, and you will see the slippery slope I am trying to explain. If I built a beautiful cabinet out of wood for my home rather than buying one at a furniture store, I would scoff at someone saying I didn't make it by hand simply because I used a power saw rather than a hand saw to cut my wood. I think the answer is that it is a spectrum. There are degrees of hand-made and degrees of machine-made.

    I don't know of any shoes that are completely made by machine, with no human hands involved. Even modern sneakers have people stitching pieces of fabric and foam together in sweat shops over in Asia. However, most of the shoes that people wear nowadays wouldn't exist if it weren't for the advent of complex machinery to assist in making them.

    I should warn you though... this topic can be quite the [​IMG]
     


  12. David Copeland

    David Copeland Senior member

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    Forgive me for asking, but what country are you in? (Most of the deep discounts which I am aware of are based in the USA)
     


  13. Munky

    Munky Senior member

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    Thank you, Money, for your detailed and fascinating response to my question. I really appreciate your taking time to do this. From your response and from considering the issues, I realise there is no simple answer. It remains, for me, an interesting one, given that a considerable amount of money is tied up in shoes being described as 'hand made'. I suspect that the market for shoes also dictates the ways in which shoes are described - although, in many countries - some sort of trades descriptions laws must click in at this point. To add a further complexity, I notice that some shoes are described as 'hand crafted'.

    Just as an aside, most Dr Martens are also Goodyear welted. On an even more prosaic note, I have two pairs of Dr Martens shoes, which are fun to wear, comfortable and likely to last a lifetime. Thanks, again, for your considered response.
    Best wishes, Munky.
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2013


  14. Garasaki

    Garasaki Senior member

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  15. David Copeland

    David Copeland Senior member

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    Here are a few ideas for you:

    a) Allen Edmonds is having a clearance sale on some great styles at www.allenedmonds.com (I picked up the Long Branch Boots for over 100.00 off, and there are some other great syles too)

    b) Other Allen Edmond shoes, boots, and loafers are expected to be discounted at 35% off in the next few weeks at a major department store. Another forum member just received an advance sale email verifying one of the styles we have suspected to be going on sale. So you may wish to wait a few weeks. (See the other forum thread in this forum titled "Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread", or click on my User Name to see where I have been posting with others)

    c) Another great site for discounts of up to 40% off is www.6pm.com , which has limited styles, colors, and sizes.

    Remember: Free Shipping and Free returns.

    You're on the right web site, and many people have great ideas and keep the sales posted here.

    David
     


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