**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. benhour

    benhour Senior member

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    patric if you have seen about 5-6 pages back i have said that i do this (with renovateur-cremeuniversal(if you overdoit mirror shine ll go off) or with cream polish( always small amount)) to refinish the mirror shine and maintain it once a month!! it really works and with a great effect!!!

    i want to ask something to all the great guys here!! what do you do on a brand new pear of shoes before wear them or after a couple of wears ? at your opinion to make them last longer and stay as new as long as possible? ( I took the occasion of a brand new pair of shoes just arrived today at my place as a gift for my birthday)

    lets start with what i do :
    1) brush the shoes
    2) apply creme universal of saphir especially at the areas of the shoe that ll flex ( or dubbin -depends on the kind of the leather)
    3) brush to shine them
    4) apply wax polish using a lighter at the bottom of the shoes to make them more water resistant (wont do this yet on this shoes cause here we are at the beggining of the summer)!! i have used collor dye but i dont think it is doing anything than hardening the first layer(0,5 mm)
    5) rarely do a patina if i would like to!
    i have some shoes for about -8-9 years and they look quit good til today i suppose
    looking forward for your replys
     
  2. VegTan

    VegTan Senior member

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    While Cream Shoe Polish Pommadier does not contain water, Renovateur contains water, which needs for a mirror shine.


     
  3. Numbernine

    Numbernine Senior member

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    I have not but I applaud your adventurous spirt . Another member posted recently about dousing his shells with lexol ,posted pics , they were beautiful . It seems this forum is becoming the largest single repository of information regarding the care and feeding of shell cordovan on the planet . Cool!!
     
  4. benhour

    benhour Senior member

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    i think he meant refinishing -maintain the existing mirror shine!! i think its quit impossible to go for a mirror shine using only renovateur from 0 to 100%!

    btw i think the guy (i dont understand chinese so i dont know if the guy is you) is using insanely a lot of wax( according to what amount is taken from the tin and what is remaining on the shoe) and a lot of collonil paste polish!!(btw if you are the guy try the 1909 collonils series!! it has better results)
     
  5. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ben, I don't do anything to new shoes before I wear them.
     
  6. benhour

    benhour Senior member

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    if i remember correctly you are a bespoke guy in most cases? so in that case i think you are right and is quit unesesery !!! but what do u think about a shoe from a store? something like AE ,in that case you dont know how long this pear is there!

    some pic's from the shoes after the treatment in describebt before(they were more matt ): the collor is brown and not burgundy as it might be seen in the last 2 pictures without the flash! All thoughts are more than welcome
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


     
  7. glenjay

    glenjay Senior member

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    Those are beautiful shoes Ben!

    In regard to new shoes:I don't think that new shoes really need anything done to them right away, but I always like to go over a new pair with some cleaner/conditioner just to remove anything that may have collected on the surface in storage, and to give the leather a bit of a glow. Sometimes I will add a coat of cream polish, and bull the toe with some paste, if I want to start off with a full shine. It sort of depends on the shoe style. I never condition the sole, as I don't want to soften that leather.
     
  8. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I mean other than light conditioning you don't really need to do anything. I don't have any bespoke shoes, but a lot of them are MTO, so I am guessing the leather and such is worked with and treated shortly before I get them.
     
  9. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    If anything people should be spit shining instead of stripping or conditioning new shoes...
     
  10. kloss

    kloss Senior member

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    Some of the finish on my shoes came off. Is it enough to treat them with Saphir pigmented cream, or should i have them dyed?

    Also (regarding another pair of shoes): if I use a cream that is lighter than the shoe color, will that have any effect on the shoe color? What about waxes? since it sits on top of the shoe, I imagine that the wax would work even if the cream does not work. I'm not concerned about how neat it will look (distressed leather), just as long as the colored wax shows.
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2013
  11. CesarC

    CesarC Senior member

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    Ok, I made a grave error and I'm seeking advice on how to correct it. I've already tried some things, but they've helped but not gotten the job done to completion. I don't need you to berate me on my stupidity, I am doing that to myself. Here is the situation:

    I have some old shell that had been maintained for a long time via the Mac Method. Unfortunately the shoes reached a point of dry desperation that was not adequately reprieved by thorough and repeated treatments of Renovateur. I had experimented with using mink oil sparingly on old shell and was not going to try that again. I had read about the horrors of using beeswax-based conditioners on shell, but I had been having such good luck with Obenauf's Leather Oil (not LP) that I gave just a little to the critical areas of the vamp in danger of cracking. I immediately regretted my decision, and I can't go back.

    The vamp now feels slimy and meaty. I have tried using a ton of Renovateur to solvate the remaining culprit, but this has not been enough. I have tried other cleaners / conditioners but they have not done enough. I tried cleaning with water to force out the waxes, but that hasn't worked either.

    I want to get rid of the remaining Obenauf's in there, and get back to the beautiful glow present on the rest of the shoes. Any recommendations? I would never think to use Renomat on shell, but now I'm wondering if that's the lesser of the two evils. Maybe that would be ok if treated with dubbin afterward? I have no idea how to fix my blunder, if indeed there is a way. Help?
     
  12. benhour

    benhour Senior member

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    thank you glenjay!!

    according to that i agree with you, most of the time they dont need to be conditioned but i do it for the same reason!! to give them more shine and make them look more refined!! i use only wax on the soles once in shoes life,using a lighter to make the wax absorbed by the sole leather(i think only the first 0.1-0.2 mm are affected) to make the sole more water resistan and harden the surface!! (at the first wear is like dancing on ice hahahahahaha)

    patric i think i was in the right direction with you!! [​IMG] the only reason to do something(paste or wax polish) on MTO or bespoke new pear is only if you want to go for a spit shine or a mirror shine!

    kloss give us a photo of your shoes cause it's quite unfare to give you an advice blindly!(if you read this thread i think you ll find the answer on your own)
     
  13. kloss

    kloss Senior member

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    Regarding the distressed shoe that I asked about: I have the same color and model as in the following post. What the photos there do not show is that it is lightly dusted with some kind of lighter brown finish.
    http://www.styleforum.net/t/316259/...tton-detail-ankle-boots-size-10-5-200-shipped

    The dusting was sort of like on this boot, but much, much lighter.
    http://www.styleforum.net/t/307639/varvatos-bowery-button-boot-size-9-5I

    The shoes were very heavily distressed (deep creases) when new out of the box so I conditioned them and the brown dusting came off. Now I'm left with a plain dark brown/blackish boot. I'd like to get back some of the dust-like finish if possible, but I have no idea how to do that. The dusty-looking finish filled in the pores and stuck on the boot. I doubt that wax would have that effect and appearance but I'm not really sure. I've only had experience with Saphir wet wax, not dry wax.

    Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

    As for the other pair: I bought some color Saphir polish to restore some of the finish. I think it should turn out okay.
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2013
  14. benhour

    benhour Senior member

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    at my opinion try going with cream or wax polish!! dye is permenent and you cant go back!!! if the finish was lighter than the main color go with a lighter cream !! the same thing if the fishish was darker than the main color you have to go with darker polish!! btw if the leather is some kind of nubuck tont even think of using paste -wax polish on them
     
  15. ovlov

    ovlov Senior member

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    Quick question re shoes tree guys. New to this and worried I may be damaging my shoes.

    I just got some Saphir trees for my Edward Green Chelseas. My only previous experience with trees are some nordstrom trees I use on my AEs.

    When I opened the box I noticed quite a few dark splotches on the inside of the box indicating that it had gotten wet at some point. The trees looked and felt fine though. But when i put them in it felt like a really tight fit (I had to loosen up all the laces and hold the heel steady to squeeze them in). the box says they are size 10uk and I am a 10.5 so the sizing should be correct. Is this a normal fit for hinged trees or have they warped and now pushing too hard and liable to wreck the shoes?

    any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    cheers
     

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