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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Yes dubbin is great if you know how to use it, but its more than ridiculous to use dubbin on brand new shoes or old vintage stock. Or more ludicrous yet, using renomat on brand new shoes.

    No one should assume stuffing leather with oil could restore to its original state right out of the tannery. Nothing will help the aging process.

    Its much better to just use neutral wax to condition new shoes or vintage old stock, especially along the welt stitching.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    Good information, guys, I use Chogall's process, no need for extra care for new shoes.
     
  3. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Don't drink their coolaid. Shoe wax is shoe wax, different brands differs very little in terms of ingredient and composition.

    Dubbin is dubbin, its all oil based with a bit of wax. Every dubbin is ordinary.

    p.s., Saphir only recommends washing shoes and using shoe creams, wax if a mirror shine is needed. KISS. Don't fall for the arcane methodology like Hanger Project propaganda or Mac Method bullcrap.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. vestbash

    vestbash Senior member

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    Mac method bullcrap? Genuinely curious on how to care for shell then.
     
  5. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Brush for 10 hours straight on any cordovan leather and you will see a shine. [​IMG]

    Or just follow Alden's suggestion for Alden cordovan. And use cordovan cream on non-Aldens. Different makers have different finishing on their cordovan shoes.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. a recent grad

    a recent grad Member

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    [​IMG]
    The new shoes arrived today , went down half a size as well and they feel like another layer of my feet. The strap is a pain in the butt to buckle especially when I am treating it with the most care.
     
  7. benhour

    benhour Senior member

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    totally agree with that! renomat is a wax-resin-silicon polish stripper and there is no benefit on using it on brand new shoes(even stored for a long time) as there is no polish layers builded up!

    now about the second one! if you read about tanning process (especially vegetable tanning process) you ll see that the main purpose of tanning is to make leather proteins resistant to deterioration and decomposition(tanning agents bonds to collagen proteins and other molecular structure of the leather and make it resistant to bacterial etc)!! so if the leather is just stored and just dried out you can make it again being like out of the tannery by adding oils-fats etc !(they are doing it in tannery after tanning process because leather becomes stiff and dry cause of the tannins)! the purpose of using dubbin and conditioning creams on long stored shoes is to condition leather in depth and restore at a significant point the oils added after tanning process that have dried out from time passed and make it supple again and not crack and crease too much after wear!!this cant be done by using only neutral wax or neutral cream polish (chemically and biologically impossible unless you cake shoes in cream polish but this is a huge waste of product(+polish doesnt containing all the oils and ingredients in dubbin and conditioning creams like renovateur-1909 leather cream-lexol)

    really happy to see that everything turned out well!!! enjoy your new shoes and for sure dont use the same shoe trees!!! hahah[​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I feel like I requote this every week... *sigh*

     
  9. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Requote it all you want. The Mac method works very well indeed on my Carmina shell.
     
  10. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Why, brushing your shoes and using wax polish is somebody's legendary "method" is beyond me. However, as stated in other threads the debate isn't over whether it makes your shoes shiny, the debate is weather it is healthy for the shoe for long term use. Mac has such an extensive shoe collection (and flips them often) that you really don't get a sense for how this type of "care" will hold up over time and a lot of shoe use. My guess is not well for people who actually wear their shoes often and not just keep them shiny and display them on their dresser (and post photos of them all over the internet in a billion different places).
     
  11. vestbash

    vestbash Senior member

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    Thanks for the response.
     
  12. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    Well I never used mac method on ly CJ and ronrider shell. It's always Reno, cream and occasionally wax for me
     
  13. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    How do I know when I need a resole? I've had my shoes over a year, but only wear once or twice a week, so I'm not sure if they need it or not (they are single leather soles), what are the signs that indicate a resoling is required?
     
  14. benhour

    benhour Senior member

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    bassed on what you said 99% you dont need a resole!!(unless you walk 10 miles in rain in every wear)!!

    holes where you can see the insole, round soft spots at the center of the front part of the sole(where it most toutches the ground, toe part of the sole warn down!! if it is possible give a picture!!
     
  15. OREO

    OREO Senior member

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    I work as a cobbler and like benhour said watch out for soft spots and holes. But you especially need to make sure no part of the sole is so worn down it might affect the welt. If you start to wear the welt it's going to add a lot of £ to fix. Where i work if the welt needs to be replaced it adds another £40 to your bill
     
  16. dieselman89

    dieselman89 Senior member

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    Looks like I may need to buy a kit. Any suggestions under $60?
     
  17. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Local cobblers. One brush, one kiwi wax in color of your choice, one liter of Lexol conditioner. Shouldn't cost you more than $30. Use your own old t-shirts or undershirts for buffing cloth.
     
    3 people like this.
  18. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    How should one care for peccary? Same as calf?
     
  19. Crat

    Crat Senior member

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    This.
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2013
  20. benhour

    benhour Senior member

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    Some general info on collonil brand! Diamant series production is now stopped and the product ll be available as long as the stock of the warehouse and resellers holds! Diamant series is now fully substitute from 1909 line!

    Crat good to have you back!
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2013

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