**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. sjmin209

    sjmin209 Senior member

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  2. justinkapur

    justinkapur Senior member

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  3. phototristan

    phototristan Senior member

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    what's interesting is that they will no longer sell Saphir after their stock is all gone.

    per the email i got from them recently:

    "due to issues getting consistent shipments from our vendor, we have are discontinuing this product. Whatever Saphir products we have left are listed on our site and we are removing as we sell through them."
     


  4. David Copeland

    David Copeland Senior member

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  5. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    LOL....yeah, that was the story......
     


  6. phototristan

    phototristan Senior member

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    what's the real story?
     


  7. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    nothing important, really.....normal stuff. We didn't see eye to eye on how to work together is all. More on the shoe side of things where a factory let us both down and we ended up banging heads a little over it. Neither one of our faults really, but happens. I got out of working with that factory, he moved on...everyone lives happily ever after. I hope he does well in the new space - it is impressive.
     


  8. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Thanks Ron for the info. Always good to hear from the leather merchants, the bespoke makers, RTW makers and distributors such as yourself.

    I know for sure that G&G and EG uses partially finished crust leather therefore I don't think it's that good of an idea to go through the whole RenoMat and renovator treatment right off the back.

    Haven't seen a due through aniline yet but I love aniline leather for their ability to create a patina organically.

    Thanks for clearing things up and hopefully you can have Sid and Kirby putting down a bit more info regarding new shoes maintenance so we will see less problems arising from those Presidential shine process.
     


  9. joiji

    joiji Senior member

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  10. Poshak Man

    Poshak Man Senior member

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    Try Saphir's mahogany color. It is available in MDO cream and wax. Would be a good match for EG's antique burgundy color.
     


  11. frogwash

    frogwash Well-Known Member

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    A little while back, it seems the implication was made by "Rider" that Kirby put up the incorrect usage of Renomat on HP by suggesting its use too often in regular shoe maintenance; but assuming riderbootshop.com is Ron's, that also recommends Renomat several times a year:


    http://www.riderbootshop.com/saphir-renomat/
     


  12. Like a Sir

    Like a Sir Member

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    Thank you both. This forum is nice for learning new stuff.
     


  13. glenjay

    glenjay Senior member

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    I'm sorry, but I don't believe your facts are correct.

    Water is not an integral part of the structure of leather, it is an integral part of skin. Part of the process of converting skin to leather is to modify the collagen structure by replacing the oxygen atoms in the hydrogen bonding with amino acids in the tanning solution (different chemicals, for different tanning processes) and keep the triple collagen helix intact. Removing water too soon in this process can damage the hydrogen bonding.

    Fat liquoring is used to add lubrication between the fibril bundles to allow the leather fiber to flex. Fats are not permanently bound to leather; they are however forced into the leather fiber in an emulsified state to ensure distribution throughout the fibril bundles. If any humectant exists it would be the in the sulfur used for the sulfated oil.

    The size and density of the leather fiber will affect how well it absorbs liquids, such as oil and water. Keeping in mind that leather comes from more places than just cows.

    Because leather fiber absorbs and retains liquids, it not only absorbs oil, but also water (and 30 year old scotch) which makes it hydroscopic. But because it is hydroscopic the absorbed water is susceptible to evaporation; allowing the water moisture in the leather to adjust to relative humidity. This absorption/evaporation process is referred to as allowing the leather to breathe.

    Conditioning a shoe is not the same as tanning, or fat liquoring, a shoe. Conditioning is done to replace any oils (that are lubricating the fibril bundles) that have been lost, (to things like cleaning, stripping, stepping in a puddle, and oxidation, to name a few). It is unlikely you will find any humectants in leather conditioners as oils are inherently hydrophobic. You are much more likely to find a humectant, like glycerin, in leather cleaner than in leather conditioner.
     


  14. dlind

    dlind Senior member

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    Firstly, thank you for the great information provided! Secondly if you wouldn't mind could you please outline a shoe care regiment according to you? both daily and more of a like 1 or two times a year recond, and lastly just for clarification is there any need for a conditioner besides the renovator or is that one (or similar) sufficient?
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2013


  15. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    Surely.

    Actually, the guide Sid Mashburn has on the site is perfect - with the exception of the use of Dubbin on a finished calfskin, I concur with the methods.

    http://www.sidmashburn.com/shop/shoe-shine-playbook/calfskin.html

    Clearly suggests using a TINY bit of Renovateur, not globs of it, and they took my recommendation regarding RenoMat as an occasional use, more heavy duty cleaning, product. I don't think I could make it more clear than that. Nowhere does it say you have to totally treat new shoes before letting them hit the pavement that I can see.
     


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