Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.
And you're referring to Shell? Hmmm . . . see the following video:
I'll tell my neighbour her play was much ppreciated : )
I don't really do anything special with my calf skin shoes, as far as maintenance is concerned. I just apply a very, very thin layer of wax once in a while and then brush it out after 15+ min with a horsehair brush. Wouldnt use a nailbrush like I'm using on the cordovan for calfskin unlses its church's bookbinder leather. (Thats is calf, isnt it?)
The cotton cloth is only placed over the nail brush as the bristles are so stiff that they will make small scratches on the cordovn if I don't. By covering the brush with a cloth I can still use the higher pressure exterted by the stiff bristles without scratching the cordovan.
I am not sure what city or country you are in - but, yes - tell her the tunes were just heard in Montana - and that we have a spot here at the Little Bighorn National Monument - where the famous General Custer could have used a little better tune - before the Apache's took him out in 1876. [ Grim & Grin ]
So you have found that less is best for the Calfskin too. I have been working myself through the 5-step Process of the five Saphir Products recommended - and although they cost more - they need a LOT LESS application than other brands. At this rate, my Saphir Products should last over a year.
This thread is hopeless.
Pebble grain is for the look, however it is also a form of correction. Does it mean the leather is bad? Maybe in shitty shoes, not the good stuff, however.
I honestly feel like it doesn't matter all that much what you do with she'll cordovan based on how it is tanned and how the finish lays on it.
I stick by the less is more approach. Oh yeah, and not relying on renovateur for conditioning.
Yes, I think we all got how you feel.
Just because you're butthurt about my conclusion about your beloved Reno doesn't mean you should ignore cold hard experience. Let this sink in: I was you.
OK, can you explain how it is also a form of correction?
Sorry, Patrick . . . you may have been me when first introduce to one (1) Saphir product, which by itself is not solely recommended for long term maintenance - but you are not me.
Before I invested time and money - I spoke to several retail owners of the product, and I read every bit of the written instructions, procedures, required drying time, and recommended use - before I experimented in my shoes. What makes us different is . . . if the same issue you experienced in cracked leather over 2-3 years - happened to me - I would have picked up the phone and called the owner again, and would have followed up by email of photos. I would not take the chance in assuming it was Saphir's product that may have caused all of my shoes to crack. I need to be able to look myself in the mirror at night and say that I did all that I could to correct the insanity of losing my shoes to leather cracks - even if it meant I was at fault because I may have overlooked one or two steps that was clearly outlined - or at least clearly available to me on the phone.
Patrick - please don't give up on your shoes by making an assumption before you have spoken to the owners at B Nelson and/or Hangerproject.
If in the end I begin to experience cracked leather on all of my shoes in 2-3 years after using the 2, 3, 4, and 5-step Saphir products process - then, yes - I will be a part of your camp. But not before.
Patrick, also see the following:
Quote: Well, start with this from "Tanning Chemistry: the Science of Leather"
They go on to explain that excessive drying removes structural water from the surface, resulting in irreversible crosslinking of collagen fibrils and stiffness of the leather.
When museums store leather artifacts, they do not treat them with anything, but maintain the relative humidity at an optimal level to avoid both mold formation and drying of the leather. Of course, these specimens will not be worn, or otherwise used. If they are handled at all, it will be very carefully, with no flexing. Care of shoes one will wear trades off longevity (museums would like their leather objects to last hundreds of years) for practicality (useful for something during its life).
So leather needs to be kept at the right level of hydration. If it gets too low, the leather can be irreversibly damaged. It will get stiff, and will be prone to cracking when flexed. If shoes are stored at too low a humidity and the moisture is not restored, then stiffness and cracking would be expected.
Hangar Project themselves recommends using Saphir Renovateur alone:
"We recommend for the Renovateur to be used alone as a routine maintenance product as well as between coats of cream/wax as a cleaner and conditioner"
i (and i bet others) have never heard that it requires 2 or more additional Saphir products.
Sorry to burst bubbles here, it I've been using renovateur way before hanger project ever carried it. Hanger project is in the business of selling products. I have many more years of experience using Saphir. Hanger Project doesn't.
Also like I said in the other thread the only other products I've used on my shoes is saphir, both cream and wax. Actually to make matters worse on my long time Lexol treated shoes, they didn't receive Saphir cream or wax until years into wearing and those are the only shoes that AREN'T cracking.
Separate names with a comma.