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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. OzzyJones

    OzzyJones Senior member

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    goddam double post!!
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2013
  2. tcideneb

    tcideneb Well-Known Member

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    I have three stiff brushes uses to wipe off dirt and debris and three horsehair brushes for buffing.  One set for black, one set for mid colored shoes, and one set for light color shoes.

    Honestly speaking, you shouldn't need separate sets of brushes for dark brown, oxblood, and vintage rosewood shoes...

    Thanks, where is a good online source for stiff brushes.. Usually I only come across horse hair brushes- thanks
     
  3. nickrut

    nickrut Senior member

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    I think it's because the difference in shoes is so apparent. A 700 dollar pair is way nicer than a 200 dollar pair. The benefits of the lotions aren't quite as apparent. Plus you'll buy a lot more polish stuff than shoes so it adds up
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. patrick_b

    patrick_b Senior member

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    Good point.

    AE's conditioner is a good product. However, I don't mind paying for Renovateur because a jar lasts me about a year. Even at about $30 with shipping it's still only a few bucks a month...and I like the smell.

    With that said, I make leather dog leashes and collars and wouldn't think of using renovateur on them. I'll use Obenauf LP or RMW's leather conditioner. I keep the Renovateur for shoes.
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2013
  5. patrick_b

    patrick_b Senior member

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    What stiff brushes do you use? I have a standard soft horsehair brush that I use just for cleaning after taking a damp cloth to the leather. I don't use the cleaning to brush to do anything but clean but it's the same type of brush as I use for polishing. I always wondered if I ought to be using something stiffer.

    I use the 8" brushes for polishing and the small ones for cleaning and for Obenauf on work boots. I bought one of the Florsheim brushes almost 20 yrs ago and love it. The other two Florsheim brushes were ebay finds and about the same age.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Numbernine

    Numbernine Senior member

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    I made a couple of stiff brushes by cutting old standard brushes down to @ 3/8 with a pair of hair clippers[​IMG]
     
    3 people like this.
  7. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    Creative!
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. Hampton

    Hampton Senior member

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    I have a pair of G&G I did my polish on.

    With C&J wax it doesn't work? But with wax in saphir it works just fine? Is it me who is getting crazy here, or could some other wax brand not work on shoes?
     
  9. EnsitMike

    EnsitMike Active Member

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    So I may have learned how to properly shine shoes about a month ago, but I've jumped in head first on doing a patina on some cheap test shoes.

    More images to come as I build some layers and figure out where I'm going with the colors. Please feel free to give me some feedback.


    [​IMG]
     
  10. goodlensboy

    goodlensboy Senior member

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    Please try to post pics in natural light, with before and after shots
     
  11. Hampton

    Hampton Senior member

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    Damn C&J wax sucks really bad.
     
  12. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Wrong.




    Don't blame the wax when you can't raise a shine. That said, different waxes solidify differently.
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2013
  13. JermynStreet

    JermynStreet Senior member

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    So does AE while we're on the topic. Honestly, the only wax I've been able to get a true spit shine with is saphir.
     
  14. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Did you strip using Clorox/bleach or acetone or dye preparer? Why not strip the toes and the broguing/gimping? Remember to condition after striping and don't wax right away or you would seal the smell. Shoe in picture looks unnaturally painted instead of a patina.
     
  15. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    :O
     
  16. Hampton

    Hampton Senior member

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    double post, delete.
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2013
  17. Winston S.

    Winston S. Senior member

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    I haven't had issues with mine.
     
  18. Hampton

    Hampton Senior member

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    No i'm getting my shine just perfect with saphir? Went with C&J 2 times and it is the worst ever.

    You can also see the wax quality when comparing them.
     
  19. EnsitMike

    EnsitMike Active Member

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    I'll try and get some in natural light.

    I did selective stripping using acetone. I only stripped the toe, heel, lower sides, and lace section.

    Shoot. I did not condition after stripping. What is the side effects of not doing so? The only conditioner I have is leather honey, is that fine?

    Thanks for all the feedback Chogall

    Edit: Also, I am going for a little bit more of an artificial look. I want them too look like a custom piece. I'm thinking of putting pure black on the very tips and doing a quick gradient blend to the red.
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2013
  20. benhour

    benhour Senior member

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    i have to disagree with that in some point!! if u ll get a mirror finish or a spit shine it depends most of the time on the method you are up to!! generally bee's wax bassed polishes has the benefit of spit shine a lot easier than the others! ofcourse never forget to leave wax rest after aplication( saphir needs about 3-5 minutes to solidifie and give his best spit shine when A.E and Collonil (same brand, AE is rebranded Collonil refer always on the mid range cause 1909 Collonil is different story) needs at least 6-8 minutes of rest before brush)!
     

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