The Saphir description clearly states that Saddle Soap is for the cleaning of rough oily leathers. They describe the Cleaning Soap as appropriate for the cleaning of 'finished' leather. They mention Hermes uses it to clean handbags. I have used Saphir Saddle Soap to clean calf leather shoes before. They didn't seem any the worse for it. I guess, given Saphir's own recommendation, that I shouldn't have used it on dress shoes.