Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.
Once a time I tried to Bull by using the stocking. It not absorbed the water well & the result, wax became dull instead shine. But when I buff (keep it dry, it's traumatic to combine it with water) with it, the result quite fine although not good as the cotton cloth will. Just ordered some shine cloth from the web - Kiwi, Collonil & so-called professional shine cloth flannel/canvas backed- & arrived today. I found that Flannel material is the softest type to buff & also the best. The surface resistance to leather almost nothing, I can move my finger freely. I haven't use it to bull the shoe (This is what I struggle to, what's the optimum for bulling my shoe)
Just use an old t shirt.
Heard it helps to boil an old cotton t-shirt a few times first.
Any merit to that?
No. A new t-shirt may benefit from boiling or several long washes but an old t-shirt will be in just the right state.
I use a cut up pair of old flannel PJ pants
Nice gloss! What was your process for the toe box?
I've found that the cheap microfiber cloths available in the auto/car care section of dept stores (walmart) work very well for the final buff. IME, those with a fluffier nap work the best.
Incidentally I also got a kick out of this DIY shine box:
Could you try to contribute with something instead of just being condescending all the time?
I thought the contribution was clear, don't waste your money on cheap microfibre cloths.
I look forward to your contribution or are you a self appointed moderator?
he is one of the best contributors in this thread and i'm glad for that.
you sir, have still a lot to learn. better follow the drumbeaters elsewhere...
It's been so long since I began with 'The Way of the Mirror', I'd completely forgotten how it was with a brand new pitted and uneven surface. Yep, a mirror is possible on any leather, although I've never tried on corrected grain. John Lobb come out the factory fairly smooth, so in a short space of time you're almost there. However, a cheaper, coarser leather will require one hell of a lot more coats. I'm holding a lesser shoe up to the light right now, and can visibly see the pitted surface. What I'll try to do is build up enough coats to even out and 'dissapear' those micro indentations. I'm not trying to polish the wax in the traditional sense, so I understand that there'll be a horrible grinding, feel to the wax being applied. The surface will not shine, even after twenty coats. I simply carry on, leaving the shoe every 10 coats to solidify overnight. You begin to think it's all a waste of time. The coats keep coming, but nothing changes. THEN, as if by magic, a sparkle appears near the edge of the toecap. This is the beginning
Once achieved, I've found the mirror impossible to spoil. You can cover the damn thing in Saphir Renovateur, and within 4 -5 coats you're back to seeing your reflection again.
Remember: get into the habit of dumping initial dabs of polish to the MIDDLE of any clear expanse. As tempting as it is, don't apply straight to an edge. You work your way out towards the edges. Failure to do this can result in clogged and lumpy joins/seams.
I only mention the above, as I realize many aren't getting results. Better you understand why you're doing it, than copying any particular and personal technique.
Apologies again for any repetition. I now realize that many don't want to read this entire thread. Anyway, hope it helps someone.
Mr.Lear, I got similar experience. Some of my shoes was like almost impossible to shine & some very easy. I never found any article regarding what type of leather that's difficult to shine, I'm quite blind - theoretically- when choosing what type of care I would apply to some shoes. But I found some leather If we touch or feel it, we'll know it's the type that's easy to shine etc - at least from my experience up until this time. It's disturbing though when I saw some Japanese shoe shiner is likely could shine every shoes & I can't shine some of shoes
It's the 'secret' I want to find
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