**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. Stirling

    Stirling Senior member

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    Doesn't exist anymore, mixture of plant & animal oils (without petrochemical distillates) is the closest you can get to natural & pure.
     
  2. hendrix

    hendrix Ill-proportioned

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    true, although I feel like mineral oil is still natural.
     
  3. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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    If you wish to discuss the frequency of misinformation that I've put forth then I'll thank you to cite examples. Your random character summaries highlights your bitsy knowledge of me and my knowledge no end. (To use your own words, not mine.)

    In any case - discussion is a part of learning.

    I'll thank you to address me politely, or not at all. I'll do the same to you.
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2012
  4. grendel

    grendel Senior member

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    I got some new AE Strands and put a mirror shine on the toe. All I've put on them is a wipe down with Lexol, then a couple applications of Saphir Renovateur, a quick overall shine with Medaille D'or, then bulled the toes



    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  5. mymil

    mymil Senior member

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    Isn't it natural in the same way that plastics are? I.e., made from petroleum, which at some point was plants?
     
  6. CalTex

    CalTex Senior member

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    grendel,

    Nice! I have a pair of strands and I have been meaning to do the same, now I am motivated.
     
  7. b1os

    b1os Senior member

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    How often, if at all, do you strip your shoes clean of all built-up wax layers?
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2012
  8. NORE

    NORE Senior member

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    I would suggest only using wax on the toes of your shoes for that mirror shine and creme on the rest of the shoe, particularly the parts that flex. This will help prevent the need to strip back layers of wax. So to answer your question, never.
     
  9. b1os

    b1os Senior member

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    D'oh.. makes sense, thanks! :brick: I've just applied a handful of thin coatings on the whole shoe -- whenever the shoe had scuffs -- so I guess that won't be a problem (more on the toe/heel obv). Will use cream in the future.
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2012
  10. NAMOR

    NAMOR Senior member

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    bah, so many words on this page. could someone synthesize the discussion into a few sentences?
     
  11. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    why is only reno good for shell and shoe cream not? why does saphir shell cream then even exist? aren't people too much concerned how to treat their shoes? where is the good old empiric spirit? try and error. is this too blue eyed?
     
  12. hendrix

    hendrix Ill-proportioned

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    Well, almost anything is fine, and yes trial and error is the right attitude. I like the saphir shell cream though.

    I am a bit different from many here in that I pretty much only use cream - never polish - mainly because I don't like a mirror shine but also because IME too much polish dries a shoe out.

    Because I never use polish I have no need for a cleanser/conditioner like reno to remove the polish.

    I also think neutral cream is fine for all my shoes because they're anyline dyed and therefore don't need any pigment restoration.
     
  13. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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    Too many producers with too many marketing objectives at stake results in a lot of marketing lanquage that is well written but of questionable authority. Makes it hard for a guy to come up with any logical conclusions.

    I do agree that keeping it pretty simple is the best.

    I used nothing but mink oil, meltonion cream, and kiwi polish for decades - my shoes didn't seem to suffer.

    I do like reno - it is very easy to use. But it is not essential.
     
  14. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    same for me with the mirror shine. didn't know about the drying out issue, though.
     
  15. hendrix

    hendrix Ill-proportioned

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    well, my only experience on this matter is military.

    Issued service boots always receive a mirror shine all over. after a couple of years they seem to always crack. Leather quality is certainly not very good, but i've found that the suede field boots (obviously do not receive any polish) and black field boots that only receive dubbin (as anything shiny could get you killed) tend to last much longer before they crack.

    Again, leather quality is questionable, but that's been my experience. I think overdoing the mirror shine is bad for the leather, but a bit of polish here and there is a good thing.

    The original tanning is probably far more important.
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2012

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