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JFWR

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Anyone know if this is salvageable/repairable or not? I recently received these and this is what I got from their hand welted line...I reached out to exchange for a different pair but since it took over a month to ship and the customer service email replies took forever my size is sold out.

The leather seems to be separating along the monk straps as well as the inside quarter of the shoe.

4A471880-83AF-44EA-8538-94B49E3ADFF5.jpeg


4BDCF114-BD84-4C3D-A127-D4F173ABA27E.jpeg


2A10A6B0-4E38-4D21-B708-6AA96AA05B69.jpeg



I figure the folds here can be some what smoothed out of I soak them in warm water and manipulate it while it dries to get it back in form.


EF095702-86B9-4307-8788-79F116C2CF45.jpeg


202CA33A-4ED5-47EA-85AB-C39C49CC2C02.jpeg



It’s pretty disappointing considering this is a more “premium” shoe and their qc is this horrendous. Can anything be done about these or is this a lost cause?
There is no way to repair that kind of blipping in the leather as far as I know.
 

JFWR

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Just a note about neutral wax. Using neutral wax on very light colored shoes (such as tan or walnut) is not a totally free ride in regards to altering color. I think your shoes are dark enough so that a neutral wax should have no effect, but as many people can attest, there is some kind of solvent effect with neutral wax that darkens the leather.

In the attached photo, I took a new pair of tan boots, and did my usual routine for shoes that don't have the fancy patina that yours has. I put on three very light coats of light brown cream, then followed up by waxing the toes and heels with neutral wax. The wax turned the toes much darker (see attached) and the darkening could be observed immediately on application. I thought it looked fine (actually, I thought it looked great), so it didn't disturb me, but I didn't want it to get darker when I added more wax, so I bought some tan wax and finished the job with the tan tint. I can't guarantee that using lightly tinted wax stopped the darkening, but certainly with each application, there seemed to be little further darkening.

One other thing that might be leather-dependent, there also is a diffusion effect, so the darkening seems less blotchy and somewhat lighter over time.

A note about Renavateur and Bick4: I think I use Renavateur the way some people use Renomat, which is a once-a-year treatment meant to remove grime and excess wax. Bick4, on the other hand, I use a little more liberally. It doesn't darken leather and seems like a milder treatment than Renavateur. Just my $0.02 from someone who only does a thorough shining about once every 50 wears.

View attachment 1410450
I think the case of the neutral wax might have been your repeated applications, rather than the neutral itself.

All wax darkens if you add additional layers, but it isn't especially a darkening of the hide itself, but the surface where the wax sits.
 

JFWR

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This provides decent to very good results
I got it. They look a lot better. Thanks for the suggestion.

They don't look quite as good as leather, though. Honestly, this is a huge downside to dainite for me. I don't want my heel edges on nice shoes to look so dull compared to what leather can give me. It's a pity there is no heel option that is the best of both worlds in this respect.
 

JFWR

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You really should NOT use Renovateur on hand patinated shoes. Neutral cream is fine but Renovature is likely to disturb the patination. The is especially true if the shoes are made of crust leather. Remember that Renovateur is for renovating, not for use on new shoes or as a product to use as part of a regular routine. With regards and caution, Munky
You may be right here because I have seen -marginal- colour leach from renovateur, but that was on pretty heavily polished shoes, and not on the finish or dye.
 

ZePrez

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I got it. They look a lot better. Thanks for the suggestion.

They don't look quite as good as leather, though. Honestly, this is a huge downside to dainite for me. I don't want my heel edges on nice shoes to look so dull compared to what leather can give me. It's a pity there is no heel option that is the best of both worlds in this respect.
If you are looking for traction, the best compromise are the "V-threads" soles. Those can be added to your shoes by a good cobbler... Those are from Allen Edmonds... (I am a fan ;))
1592912108565.png


They work, Traction of rubber on many surfaces, leather looks ...
 
Last edited:

BoydsShoes

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I think the case of the neutral wax might have been your repeated applications, rather than the neutral itself.

All wax darkens if you add additional layers, but it isn't especially a darkening of the hide itself, but the surface where the wax sits.
Actually, the exact opposite happened. If the wax was wet and not allowed to evaporate a little before applying, the very initial applications show a darkening on application. With each addition of was, this was less apparent. I am pretty sure it has to do with the solvent in the wax reacting with the leather. It gives the same impression you see when water initially drops on a light colored leather shoe.
 

CWV

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Maybe you can bath the whole shoe in red wine and have a lovely new colour?
no, but seriously, Trenton and Heath (or however that name is spelled) have a video en removing liquid stains. They recommend some powder which greatly helps. Try and find the video on youtube
 

troika

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Anyone know if this is salvageable/repairable or not? I recently received these and this is what I got from their hand welted line...I reached out to exchange for a different pair but since it took over a month to ship and the customer service email replies took forever my size is sold out.

The leather seems to be separating along the monk straps as well as the inside quarter of the shoe.

4A471880-83AF-44EA-8538-94B49E3ADFF5.jpeg


4BDCF114-BD84-4C3D-A127-D4F173ABA27E.jpeg


2A10A6B0-4E38-4D21-B708-6AA96AA05B69.jpeg



I figure the folds here can be some what smoothed out of I soak them in warm water and manipulate it while it dries to get it back in form.


EF095702-86B9-4307-8788-79F116C2CF45.jpeg


202CA33A-4ED5-47EA-85AB-C39C49CC2C02.jpeg



It’s pretty disappointing considering this is a more “premium” shoe and their qc is this horrendous. Can anything be done about these or is this a lost cause?
Sorry friend, but that's not a quality issue as much as it is a clicking issue (choosing what leather to cut for what piece). The "separation" is just how the leather is, stretching or veins from the cow itself and how it wears, nothing to be done short of asking for an entirely new pair which might also have this. The fold in the side is just how the last fits your foot, also nothing to be done about. Perhaps just try a different last if you don't like that.
 

JFWR

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Actually, the exact opposite happened. If the wax was wet and not allowed to evaporate a little before applying, the very initial applications show a darkening on application. With each addition of was, this was less apparent. I am pretty sure it has to do with the solvent in the wax reacting with the leather. It gives the same impression you see when water initially drops on a light colored leather shoe.
Interesting. I have generally not found significant darkening on any of my shoes from wax application -except- when I compare the colour on the toes/heels (which are heavily waxed) v. the rest.
 

JFWR

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Okay gentlemen, I have a question:

So I have four pair of cordovan shoes. On one pair, a Norwegian split toed derby from Allen Edmonds, everytime I wear them I get substantial scuffing all over their surface. Like, everytime I go out, it seems I find a new scratch. These scratches are incredibly superficial - I can remove the scratches with less than 30 seconds of brushing - but it is strange that this keeps happening and doesn't happen to any of my other shoes.

I have gotten one scratch on my black plain toed Hanover bluchers, but I assume that was from like, smacking into a table while I was out. With the Allen Edmonds, it seems that anytime I even touch them to some surface. I've got a pair of cordovan boots that basically get no damage on them ever. I also have some Aldens that don't show any damage.

Any ideas? Could it be a scratch in the wax I put on them for extra shine?
 

florent

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Okay gentlemen, I have a question:

So I have four pair of cordovan shoes. On one pair, a Norwegian split toed derby from Allen Edmonds, everytime I wear them I get substantial scuffing all over their surface. Like, everytime I go out, it seems I find a new scratch. These scratches are incredibly superficial - I can remove the scratches with less than 30 seconds of brushing - but it is strange that this keeps happening and doesn't happen to any of my other shoes.

I have gotten one scratch on my black plain toed Hanover bluchers, but I assume that was from like, smacking into a table while I was out. With the Allen Edmonds, it seems that anytime I even touch them to some surface. I've got a pair of cordovan boots that basically get no damage on them ever. I also have some Aldens that don't show any damage.

Any ideas? Could it be a scratch in the wax I put on them for extra shine?
Something similar happened to me because of the lace tips banging on the leather all day long. Obviously the marks were not all over the shoes but the situation was still mind boggling. IIRC I just changed the laces for a model with softer tips and problem solved
 

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