**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. Gerry

    Gerry Senior member

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    From my experience you need to be using polish(wax) not cream to achieve the mirror-shine. Plus I find a couple coats of neutral polish after your colored polish brings up the shine better. And yes use a cotton cloth not a brush to apply and buff.
     


  2. NPHAF

    NPHAF Well-Known Member

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    Really? 1, 2, 3 :cool:
     


  3. pnin22

    pnin22 Senior member

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    Here's what I mean -- this is what the shoe looks like after 10 applications of kiwi neutral wax, mimicking the procedure in this video recommended by NPHAF. The wax dries flaky and scratchy instead of getting smoother. I tried varying a) amount of wax, b) amount of water, c) wait time between application.

    [​IMG]
     


  4. patrick_b

    patrick_b Senior member

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    Looks like too much polish to me. This is how I achieve the following mirror toe:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Originally Posted by patrick_b [​IMG]


    I use a cut/ripped up old cotton undershirt. I get a dozen or so strips out of each tee. The call was about an hour long [​IMG] (more below).
    I got to thinking about Gdot's comment and wondered if there may be something I'm doing differently than the tutorials I see online. The RMW boots took 2-3 coats of wax.
    When I originally started polishing my shoes, I would simply apply a coat of wax until it hazed up and let it dry for a few minutes before brushing and buffing with a clean, dry cloth. The difference today is that I continue rubbing in the polish for several minutes before brushing. The polishing cloth will dry up and the toe starts to develop a shine before brushing & buffing.
    To start, I apply a drop or two of water onto a clean section of cloth (strip of old cotton undershirt), dip the damp section of polishing cloth into the tin of kiwi wax then apply the polish to the shoe in small circles. I continue to apply the small circles with the same section of cloth for several (5+) minutes without adding more wax. By the 3-4 minute mark, the cloth is no longer damp and there's very little wax polish left on the cloth. Again, the leather starts to develop a dull shine.
    I'll then take a clean section of cloth and start the process again (before brushing), i.e., dampen with a drop or two of water and apply a second coat of wax and continue polishing in small circles until there's virtually no moisture or wax left on the cloth. Note, I still have not brushed or buffed yet. I probably get 3 coats after 15-20 minutes (before touching a brush to the shoe). At that point, I let the polish dry for a minute or two (if necessary), then brush with horsehair brush and buff & polish with the microfiber cloth. Depending on how it looks at that point, I may start applying more layers or leave it as is.
    I found this youtube video referring to "bulling" a shoe which is pretty close to what I'm doing.
     


  5. Gerry Nelson

    Gerry Nelson Senior member

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    Great stuff, Patrick! The shoes look beautiful. Are the longwings calf as well or do you apply the same process to shell cordovan?

    By the way, are these yours? If not, it looks like your photos have been misused.
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2012


  6. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    Try KIWI light brown or medium brown. Apply ever so sparingly with your finger. Let dry 30 min, brush, let sit for 30 min, then buff. If you apply sparingly it shouldn't darken the leather and will not flake or leave a filmy residue. Remember....use your finger and a tiny bit goes a long way.
     


  7. glenjay

    glenjay Senior member

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    That is just way too much wax. I would suggest stripping them down and starting over.

    Start with one thin coat of cream and brush well. Then, slide your finger across the shoe (don't use a finger with polish on it). If you feel a fair amount drag on your finger you have too much wax. Your finger should glide along the shoe surface with little to no drag after each application of polish. You are trying to build a smooth surface, and some degree of shine, right from the start.

    A well brushed shoe with a single coat of cream polish (that has already been properly conditioned) should be able to produce a glow shine. If it does not, then there is probably too much polish, or you didn’t brush the shoe well enough. The problem is rarely too little polish.

    If you insure the shoe has a progressively better brushed shine after each coat of cream polish you will have a proper foundation to start applying the paste polish. Applying SMALL amounts of paste and water during the bulling process should produce the shine you desire.

    The proper amount of pressure applied when bulling a shoe should be enough to spread and smooth out the current polish loaded on the applicator, with minimal impact on the previous layer. Once all the polish has transferred from the applicator and spread evenly for a single coat, slightly more pressure will begin to produce the mirror shine.
     


  8. patrick_b

    patrick_b Senior member

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    That's the 2nd ebay auction [that I've seen] for AE Kenilworth's using my images. The buyers have to be a bit disapointed when their package arrives.
     


  9. patrick_b

    patrick_b Senior member

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    Upon further review, it's the same seller using my shoes/images to sell the same model.
     


  10. Pieceofsand

    Pieceofsand Senior member

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    What areas on a loafer would one generally do a mirror like shine? Just the toe or do one not do mirror shine on loaders. I have a pair of black split toe AE loafers.
     


  11. Gerry Nelson

    Gerry Nelson Senior member

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    It looks like the loafers here have it across most of the front.
     


  12. hendrix

    hendrix Ill-proportioned

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    dunno why you'd want to spit shine anything with a split toe.

    or a wingtip or any shoe but a black cap toe or army boots for that matter, but a split toe loafer is taking things to the extreme. May as well start polishing your sandals.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2012


  13. Pieceofsand

    Pieceofsand Senior member

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    I was leaning toward that myself; however, I was not positive. Thus my question. Thank you for your response.
    That's what I was thinking too. I wish there is a better angle of the photo :) Thank you for your input.
     


  14. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I disagree.
     


  15. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

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    thanks for the help, boots came out well, most of the spot is gone.
     


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