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The Official Merciless Clothes Culling™ Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by F. Corbera, Mar 11, 2012.

  1. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Senior member

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    Well, there we have it. RSS your story that you told on the forum a while back about either renting out an entire space or something to that effect is the most baller shit ever on SF. You should tell it again.
     
  2. cbbuff

    cbbuff Senior member

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    Mine is also a common story, I believe.

    I came here a couple of years ago needing an education. As F.C. discusses in his "Beginners" thread:

    What is a beginner?

    They are often asked by men who did not grow up with learning how to dress in coat and tie, and who seem to have not a soul in their personal, social, professional, or even retail lives who can counsel them (or if there are such people, they are people who are not trusted.)

    This was (and still is in many ways) me. My father was a physician and rarely wore coat and tie, and even then, when he did wear them I knew it was not something to emulate. So I scuffled around knowing that I didn't know what to do about learning how to dress professionally, but unsure how to learn. AAAC and then SF has taught me much, and I am grateful. I started by buying better shirts, shoes, accessories and suits and getting a better sense of what fit.

    In with Canali, Zegna, TA, BB, AE. Much of this was used.
    Out with XXXX (brand names have been redacted to protect against profound embarrassment. In addition I can't remember what I wore, only that it was absolute crap).

    As I gained knowledge and enjoyed better fit and higher quality garments, I got pickier about what I would wear. I built a good relationship with a tailor I trust.

    In with Alden, C&J (bench and handgrades), MTM shirts, Borrelli, Brioni and Isaia RTW suits and shirts. Some of this was used, some new.
    Out with some of the Canali and Zegna, and all the AE.

    I feel that I now have a pretty good idea about what fits, but I have found that I keep getting more persnickety about fit/quality. What was good enough last year is no longer. Where I would accept a center vent or pleated trouser in an otherwise well fitting suit, I now cannot. Shirts that are off in the sleeve by 1/2" are out.

    In with RLPL and Oxxford suits, Vass and DC Lewis shoes, Hober ties
    Out with most of the remaining Zegna, Canali, BB suits and all shirts that don't fit right after a visit to the tailor. This is about 30-40 shirts.

    I am now getting ready for my first MTM suit (Samuelsohn). I want to compare that to the Oxxford Type A I just bought. If MTM is what I expect, I will be cycling through another round of closet churn. I fully expect this pattern to continue until I have a closet of bespoke suits and shirts.

    "Once our eyes are opened, we can't pretend we don't know what to do. " I'm pretty sure this quote was not sartorially intended, but it fits regardless. No pun intended.
     
  3. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    Nothing specific, but it's generally about two things, with both of which I believe you have some familiarity: fit and combination. There are people here who get these things and people who don't. I have learned from both. One thing I can say is that it isn't about 'brand' and those people who think that throwing out all of Brand X and Y and replacing it with Brand A and B will solve their style problems are probably going to be disappointed.
     
  4. Falgrim

    Falgrim Active Member

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    Nov 1, 2011
    Location:
    Athens, GR
    Three months ago, I tried to donate 4 of my old shirts. They had seen good use (3-4 years) but because of fit reasons and bad craftsmanship (lurking in SF usually "creates" this reasons [​IMG]) it was time to give them away. So I washed, ironed and folded them, leaving them at the hall. The same day, my two sisters came home and seeing them on the table, decided to try them on and took them with them. Since then, they occasionally use them in their outfits. [​IMG]

    In my defense, one of the shirts was black, none had any bizarre pattern and both of my sisters study architecture. [​IMG]
     
  5. akatsuki

    akatsuki Senior member

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    I don't buy anything without it replacing something else unless it is a huge gap in the wardrobe. It forces more discipline on the buying process since I know that I have to choose something to eliminate out of the closet.

    There are a couple of places I have too many things - coats, ties, maybe shoes, but overall I am pretty satisfied with this method.

    The best advantage is that it enforces discipline on the buying process - I know something will have to go everytime I buy something.
     
  6. recondite

    recondite Senior member

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    Location:
    Kulhudhuffushi, Kaafu, Maldives
    Pretty simple philosophy: if it hasn't been worn in the last six months and it is not part of a costume, sports wear such as hunting or skiing outfits, or outerwear, it is gone.

    If sports wear or outerwear, gone if not worn in one year.

    If it is part of a costume, gone if not worn in two years.
     
  7. james_timothy

    james_timothy Senior member

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    Location:
    ~ Chicago ~
    It's a process, not an event.

    Around every spring and fall, I gather up the things I haven't been wearing a lot, or at all. Since I bought each for a reason, I can't just bring myself to donate immediately. So I put them into The Pile, high on a shelf in the closet.

    If the next time the culling begins I haven't pulled it out of The Pile to wear, it goes. The Pile goes. The psychology helps. I give the clothes the last chance.

    Next I have to start doing this with sportscoats, but that will be harder; the investment is higher. Still, I think I've seen the most improvement in the non-bespoke folks when they really get fierce in culling their coats and suits. It must be one of the primary gateways to getting better.
     
  8. RSS

    RSS Senior member

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    Moo, as I age I am moving toward becoming an ascetic. I have banished all such thoughts. In short, it would be impolite to overshadow the OP and even were I to try it's not germain to this thread ... so I'm feeding you a line of bs.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2012
  9. NORE

    NORE Senior member

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    Back On Here
    My contribution:

    I used to sell anything I didn't use or want, now I merely give them away. Including NWT items in order to keep withing my maxes.
     
  10. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    I've aggressively culled my tie collection over the past few months. I noticed that I had a good 40-50 ties that I haven't worn in years, and are simply no longer of any interest to me (dislike the pattern, width, fabric etc.). Gave away the whole lot to a couple of cousins graduating college - the vast majority were repps from Brooks, but they were a few pieces from Brioni, T&A, Hilditch, Andrew's, Tyrwhitt, Vineyard Vines and Ferragamo in there as well.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2012
  11. cbbuff

    cbbuff Senior member

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    Agreed. All ties over 3.5" are gone.
     
  12. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Much of my culling involves me trying something out of my comfort zone, deciding that I'd rather be in my comfort zone, then returning to my comfort zone. Turns out I don't need so much variety after all.

    I used to worry that I was missing out, but I've come to better appreciate the virtues of the comfortable and the familiar.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. Michigan Planner

    Michigan Planner Senior member

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    Detroit-ish
    Over the years I always seemed to have a problem finding basics like jeans, chinos, polo shirts, or even socks that I really liked in terms of fit, quality, and price. Over the last year or so, with many thanks to StyleForum, I've been able to dial in on what I really like and once I do, I get rid of all the old stuff that has been sitting in my closet. For instance, last year I finally got a couple pair of Bill's Khakis chinos (M2) and now have gotten rid of all the old, ill-fitting or just lesser quality chino pants in my closet.

    I also seem to get more satisfaction from throwing old items away or donating them to charity and gaining the additional closet space than I do from acquiring new items.
     
  14. bourbonbasted

    bourbonbasted Senior member

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    I have begun to make my wardrobe options a lot less casual. Having graduated from college only a little over a year ago, the vast majority of my closet was stocked with polo shirts, sport shirts, button downs, ratty chinos and jeans. I also went through a period in early college/late high school in which I thought I was a size bigger than I actually was. As luck would have it this was also when I purchased a good deal of expensive things.

    So I've began selling off all the over-sized casual shirts, shoes and sport coats. The more well-worn items will be donated directly. However, since I am still fresh out of school and not exactly a big timer, anything of value that is in good condition will be arriving on eBay in the coming weeks and months. I probably have 25-50 items that I need to list.

    Also, to Doc's point, there is something very comforting about having an entire wardrobe within your comfort zone. My goal is to downsize my wardrobe by 50-75% but make everything in it fit well and be versatile. Thus making 100% of the items I do have wearable.
     
  15. Fuuma

    Fuuma Senior member

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    This is nothing, I'll soon be burning F Corbera's house so he can start anew without all that excess baggage.

    More seriously I wanna get rid of a lot of things but I'm too lazy. I hate big wardrobes, they suck.
     
  16. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    OneShoe?

    :confused:
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. RSS

    RSS Senior member

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    Culling is not usually an event for me, but more of a perpetual process.

    --

    I felt much the same at one time.

    I feel much the same now ... with only an occasional venture out on a limb.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2012
  18. RSS

    RSS Senior member

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    The shoes on your feet if fuuma gets to your house.

    one pair of shoes,
    one pair of socks
    one belt
    one pair of undershorts
    one undershirt
    one shirt
    one tie
    one suit (or one coat & one pair of odd trousers)
    one overcoat
    ...
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2012
  19. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
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    Sep 18, 2007
    I cull and edit regularly. Long gone are the days when I accumulated clothes and specially accessories for the sake of having more. Instead I keep what I think are the more enjoyable, better fitting and coordinating items.

    There have been some things that have remained for sentimental reasons or maybe a bit out of habit. But even those are eventually sent off to the local charity thrift shop. They've included quite a few pairs of LVC denim. They had been washed enough and/or had a fuller cut so I had to admit that they were falling into the category of the dreaded "Dad Jeans" so off they went. I also sent along some of my favorite Barbera jackets and pants. I loved them, but the fit was unfortunately dated.
     
  20. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    It is true that one needs only one suit at the end.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2012

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