The Official-ish DC Thread

[hpreston]

I love everything about the Carrara cut except for the shirt sleeve shoulders!

Did your jacket come out with shirt sleeve and soft shoulder?

I find the Carrara shoulder more classic and less shirt sleeve like than No Man’s previous tailoring options (Formosa and Eidos) and much more classic (less shirty) than The Armoury’s Ring Jacket models.

I’ll see if I can get some side by side pics over the holiday break.

Mine came with the shirt sleeve but I don’t care for the look on heavy tweeds or suits.

Interesting, I've found the opposite, though that only speaks to Ring's Model 3 and NM's RTW Carrara fits.
Obviously, nobody is confusing either model for having roped shoulders, but I find (at least on my frame), that NM's seems more poofy/shirt shouldery than Ring's, which presents a (very) slight appearance of roping.

Here’s a few side by sides in different cloths. Note on the Carrara jackets, I did not ask them to build up, or soften their standard shoulder on any of the below.

From left to right, RJ mid weight Model 6 (same shoulder as Model 3), Carrara in M&E undyed, RJ Model 3 Ballon cloth.

Left to right, RJ Model 3 in flannel, Carrara in flannel, and an Orazio (herringbone tweed) for comparison

A tale of three hi twists; From left to right, RJ model 3 in Fox Air, Carrara in Huddersfield Fresco, RJ model 3 in Fox Air

Heres me in the grey Fox air RJ

Here’s the Carrara Fresco

 

[lordsuperb]

Here’s a few side by sides in different cloths. Note on the Carrara jackets, I did not ask them to build up, or soften their standard shoulder on any of the below.

From left to right, RJ mid weight Model 6 (same shoulder as Model 3), Carrara in M&E undyed, RJ Model 3 Ballon cloth.

View attachment 2099203

Left to right, RJ Model 3 in flannel, Carrara in flannel, and an Orazio (herringbone tweed) for comparison

View attachment 2099213

A tale of three hi twists; From left to right, RJ model 3 in Fox Air, Carrara in Huddersfield Fresco, RJ model 3 in Fox Air

View attachment 2099217
Heres me in the grey Fox air RJ
View attachment 2099219

Here’s the Carrara Fresco
View attachment 2099221

The shirt sleeve shoulders on the Orazio are better executed.

 

[Idesofmarch17]

Just passed U street and saw Ezra Paul’s store with stuff covering the windows. Does anyone know if he’s moving locations?

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

Just passed U street and saw Ezra Paul’s store with stuff covering the windows. Does anyone know if he’s moving locations?

Yep he moved to Connecticut Ave south of Dupont Circle.

 

[Idesofmarch17]

Yep he moved to Connecticut Ave south of Dupont Circle.

Better location. Anyone know his current rates for a suit?

 

[hpreston]

The shirt sleeve shoulders on the Orazio are better executed.

Agreed, the Orazio is top notch.

But on the topic of Carrara, I still don’t think I’d call it a shirt sleeve type shoulder.

 

[lordsuperb]

Agreed, the Orazio is top notch.

But on the topic of Carrara, I still don’t think I’d call it a shirt sleeve type shoulder.

I think Greg said this was the default:

 

[jssdc]

Does anyone here have experience with a women’s tailor in DC? I have an 18 year-old who has clearly been paying attention over the past 10-plus years and is interested in having a suit made.

 

[jonathanS]

Does anyone here have experience with a women’s tailor in DC? I have an 18 year-old who has clearly been paying attention over the past 10-plus years and is interested in having a suit made.

Not sure if this is helpful, but William field can make for ladies. Any true bespoke tailor, really, could make a ladies garment. As for mtm, it’s about their pattern & whether it matches the body. And I mean true bespoke tailors who build a pattern from scratch not the used Bentley salesman masquerading as “bespoke” tailors really selling cheap mtm in china crap (which unfortunately has become commonplace in America).

P. Johnson (aka Sartoria carrera) has a mtm storefront in New York which does mtm. That’s probably where I’d start. I think it really depends on your budget.

 

[lordsuperb]

Agreed, the Orazio is top notch.

But on the topic of Carrara, I still don’t think I’d call it a shirt sleeve type shoulder.

When do we get to see the flannel suit?

 

[hpreston]

When do we get to see the flannel suit?

Unsure. I placed the order mid October.

It doesn’t look like it shipped before the holiday shut down in Italy, so hopefully mid to late Jan??

 

[smittycl]

Does anyone here have experience with a women’s tailor in DC? I have an 18 year-old who has clearly been paying attention over the past 10-plus years and is interested in having a suit made.

Ezra Paul can do tailoring for ladies.

 

[smittycl]

Not sure if this is helpful, but William field can make for ladies. Any true bespoke tailor, really, could make a ladies garment. As for mtm, it’s about their pattern & whether it matches the body. And I mean true bespoke tailors who build a pattern from scratch not the used Bentley salesman masquerading as “bespoke” tailors really selling cheap mtm in china crap (which unfortunately has become commonplace in America).

P. Johnson (aka Sartoria carrera) has a mtm storefront in New York which does mtm. That’s probably where I’d start. I think it really depends on your budget.

For Sartoria Carrara go through No Man Walks Alone. They will do it right.

No Man Walks Alone x Sartoria Carrara

Tailoring, our way. Our take on RTW and MTM tailored garments, all made in Italy After five years of working with various tailors and tailoring workshop, we realized that our point of view on tailoring could never be fully expressed until we created our own offering. And in the process, to...

nomanwalksalone.com

 

[jonathanS]

For Sartoria Carrara go through No Man Walks Alone. They will do it right.

No Man Walks Alone x Sartoria Carrara

Tailoring, our way. Our take on RTW and MTM tailored garments, all made in Italy After five years of working with various tailors and tailoring workshop, we realized that our point of view on tailoring could never be fully expressed until we created our own offering. And in the process, to...

nomanwalksalone.com

Sartoria Carrara is p. Johnson, I believe. I’m not sure if carrera does ladies wear. I know I’ve seen p. Johnson doing ladies wear. Just giving op things to look into.

Permanent Style

Response from P Johnson

www.permanentstyle.com

PJ Femme

Established in Sydney in 2009 and with showrooms in Sydney, Melbourne, New York and London, P Johnson draws upon traditional Italian tailoring practices, with a focus on lightness, simplicity and wearability. For enquiries and fittings for our women's tailoring line, please contact us at...

pjt.com

I think Sartoria Carrara was created by p Johnson (at least this is my understanding) to sound more Italian & sell more of the fantasy of Italy. I had never heard of Carrara until no man walks alone replaced Formosa with them a few years back. I was planning a trip to Italy, and looked into them out of curiosity - they don’t have a shop in Florence (they say they’re based out of Tuscany), Milan or anywhere in the major cities (at least that I could find). But I don’t fault them for adopting an Italian sounding name to sell suits. Anyways, that’s where I’d start if proper bespoke is out of your price range.

 

[smittycl]

Sartoria Carrara is p. Johnson, I believe. I’m not sure if carrera does ladies wear. I know I’ve seen p. Johnson doing ladies wear. Just giving op things to look into.

Permanent Style

Response from P Johnson

www.permanentstyle.com

PJ Femme

Established in Sydney in 2009 and with showrooms in Sydney, Melbourne, New York and London, P Johnson draws upon traditional Italian tailoring practices, with a focus on lightness, simplicity and wearability. For enquiries and fittings for our women's tailoring line, please contact us at...

pjt.com

I think Sartoria Carrara was created by p Johnson (at least this is my understanding) to sound more Italian & sell more of the fantasy of Italy. I had never heard of Carrara until no man walks alone replaced Formosa with them a few years back. I was planning a trip to Italy, and looked into them out of curiosity - they don’t have a shop in Florence (they say they’re based out of Tuscany), Milan or anywhere in the major cities (at least that I could find). But I don’t fault them for adopting an Italian sounding name to sell suits. Anyways, that’s where I’d start if proper bespoke is out of your price range.

Yes, I know they are owned by P Johnson. NMWA customer service and skills are excellent. Go with what is proven to work.

Also, looks like P Johnson just took over an existing factory and rebranded it. From the P Johnson reply to suit review: “We focused on working with a number of workshops in Italy (including our current Carrara workshop which was then called Sartoria Toscana).”