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The Official-ish DC Thread

TheSuitBurnsBetter

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The aforementioned high twist suit from EP.
I really like the variation in this fabric. Lighter grays run a high risk of looking cheap and flat but I think this one doesn't run into that problem.
PXL_20230310_134806506~2.jpg
Two problems that came up here (both factory errors): lapels are about 1cm too narrow and gorge is about 2cm too high (second issue is accentuated by the low camera angle though). Wasn't serious enough to request a remake, as basically no one but me would notice, but all in all I love this suit.
 

smittycl

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The aforementioned high twist suit from EP.
I really like the variation in this fabric. Lighter grays run a high risk of looking cheap and flat but I think this one doesn't run into that problem.
View attachment 1915059
Two problems that came up here (both factory errors): lapels are about 1cm too narrow and gorge is about 2cm too high (second issue is accentuated by the low camera angle though). Wasn't serious enough to request a remake, as basically no one but me would notice, but all in all I love this suit.
I really like mid-to-light gray. Pairs well with light blue shirts and ties can either be sober or bright. Nice contrast to the office full of folks in charcoal five days a week.
 

WoolyLamb

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I really like mid-to-light gray. Pairs well with light blue shirts and ties can either be sober or bright. Nice contrast to the office full of folks in charcoal five days a week.
My light gray and light brown/tan are relegated mostly to summer/nice bright days.
5562355C-2E7B-4F1E-94A8-0A356D333299.jpeg


Is there specific terminology other than high twist that generally describes these more breathable summer worthy shirts? I want to make sure im looking at the right stuff
 

smittycl

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My light gray and light brown/tan are relegated mostly to summer/nice bright days. View attachment 1915083

Is there specific terminology other than high twist that generally describes these more breathable summer worthy shirts? I want to make sure im looking at the right stuff
I think "high twist" mainly refers to suiting. For shirts avoid the thick broadcloth and definitely avoid the non-iron stuff. It's chemically treated and doesn't seem to breath very well. You can get shirts with obvious looser weave as well.
 

TheSuitBurnsBetter

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My light gray and light brown/tan are relegated mostly to summer/nice bright days. View attachment 1915083

Is there specific terminology other than high twist that generally describes these more breathable summer worthy shirts? I want to make sure im looking at the right stuff
Shirts wouldn't typically be made from high-twist fabrics. High-twist is a method of weaving wool where the yarns are twisted tightly so that they don't absorb moisture and can be woven more openly. Makes them perfect for hot, humid climates like Southeast Asia and DC summers.

An open weave shirt fabric I like is Leno. Kamakura has them, but be wary of the white fabrics as they're very sheer (not ideal if you have, um, prominent nipples).
 

Texasmade

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Wifey and I are both Northerners and love rocky coasts, easy access to big cities, etc. Winters can be a bummer of course but those are getting seriously milder. No real snow in NYC or even Boston this year.
Thanks to global warming!
 

TheSuitBurnsBetter

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I really like mid-to-light gray. Pairs well with light blue shirts and ties can either be sober or bright. Nice contrast to the office full of folks in charcoal five days a week.
Yeah it's very versatile and doesn't read as a "summer" color necessarily. It's different enough from the charcoals and navys without standing out too much. You could wear it in an office several times a week and no one would think anything of it, unlike that guy who always wears seersucker and bucks. You know the one.
 

smittycl

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Casual Friday on a cold rainy day. RLPL sport coat, Zegna tie, Sartorio dress shirt, Barneys NY flannel pants and C&J loafers.

AA5A4A03-E9D1-437A-92C4-FBA4D75B060C.jpeg
 
Last edited:

hpreston

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The aforementioned high twist suit from EP.
I really like the variation in this fabric. Lighter grays run a high risk of looking cheap and flat but I think this one doesn't run into that problem.
View attachment 1915059
Two problems that came up here (both factory errors): lapels are about 1cm too narrow and gorge is about 2cm too high (second issue is accentuated by the low camera angle though). Wasn't serious enough to request a remake, as basically no one but me would notice, but all in all I love this suit.

Suit looks great, I find this shade of mid to light grey very versatile, especially, as you stated, with the variations in the fabric.

I really like mid-to-light gray. Pairs well with light blue shirts and ties can either be sober or bright. Nice contrast to the office full of folks in charcoal five days a week.

Yes!

My light gray and light brown/tan are relegated mostly to summer/nice bright days. View attachment 1915083

Is there specific terminology other than high twist that generally describes these more breathable summer worthy shirts? I want to make sure im looking at the right stuff

Yeah it's very versatile and doesn't read as a "summer" color necessarily. It's different enough from the charcoals and navys without standing out too much. You could wear it in an office several times a week and no one would think anything of it, unlike that guy who always wears seersucker and bucks. You know the one.

What TSBB said, this shade of fresco (or similar hi twist fabric) works year around.

Casual Friday on a cold rainy day. RLPL sport coat, Zegna tie, Sartorio dress shirt, Barneys NY flannel and C&J loafers.

View attachment 1915153

Looking good.
 

scurvyfreedman

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I think "high twist" mainly refers to suiting. For shirts avoid the thick broadcloth and definitely avoid the non-iron stuff. It's chemically treated and doesn't seem to breath very well. You can get shirts with obvious looser weave as well.

I like royal oxford cloth year round. It's not as tight as heavy oxford cloth, therefore more breathable, but still has some texture and body.

And, with regard to those no-wrinkle/no-iron shirts, I understand that the chemicals include formaldehyde. Can't say that is going to kill you, because everyone must die, but it could speed up the process. It also could keep you preserved once dead.
 

JohnMRobie

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Shirts wouldn't typically be made from high-twist fabrics. High-twist is a method of weaving wool where the yarns are twisted tightly so that they don't absorb moisture and can be woven more openly. Makes them perfect for hot, humid climates like Southeast Asia and DC summers.

An open weave shirt fabric I like is Leno. Kamakura has them, but be wary of the white fabrics as they're very sheer (not ideal if you have, um, prominent nipples).
Kamakura's Leno is a giro inglese weave and is definitely a good option for summer. Zephyr is another weave that's good for summer and is the shirting equivalent of a high twist.
I think "high twist" mainly refers to suiting. For shirts avoid the thick broadcloth and definitely avoid the non-iron stuff. It's chemically treated and doesn't seem to breath very well. You can get shirts with obvious looser weave as well.
Big fan of broadcloth/poplin in 170/2 as a good year rounder but some may find them to be a bit on the precious side for beater shirts. They feel great on skin but are pretty thin suffering from similar translucence issues as giro inglese or zephyr, can be prone to wrinkling and take a little getting used to on an ironing board but as far as feel goes they're where it's at. If someone didn't want to buy winter shirts and summer shirts though I find they're more versatile than the dedicated summer choices.
 

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