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The Official-ish DC Thread

TheSuitBurnsBetter

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Maybe I don't understand what money laundering is, but how can this be money laundering? Isn't money laundering when you make up some way that you earned money?

If I remember right, the guy was (or at least claimed to be) a surgeon who suddenly began to like shoes, especially Corthay. They were like a size too big I think, so maybe not completely unwearable.
Ha yeah it doesn't really work in this scenario unless someone at Leffott was in on the deal, took the money, put the order on their books thereby turning the illegal money into legit money, and never actually produced the shoes.

This hypothetical loosely based on this:
 
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smittycl

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All the Black Friday sales seem to be in full-swing now. Doing some clothes shopping for wifey and kids (and always a thing or two for me it seems). Grabbed a few standard white Sartorio dress shirts from iSuit. Great deal on fantastic staple shirts. Replaces a few I just sent to LuxeSwap.

I noticed there are a pile of Sartoria Partenopea shirts at Sartoriale. Discount brings them down to around $94 which is a great price for Italian dress shirts. Anyone ever worn them? I have a suit and pea coat from them but no shirts.

 

scurvyfreedman

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Speaking of Black Friday sales, I picked up a pair of lightly used Brooks Brothers Peal & Co. (Alfred Sargent) snuff suede chukkas from Leffot's used collection for $167 including shipping. I was looking for some brown suede chukkas either in snuff or chocolate. Was going to buy from Alden for 3 times the price. Just happened that Leffot had a pair in my size. I have another pair of boots in the 87 last from AS and I think they are a nicer shape than Alden's version. Halfway between Alden's really rounded version and the C&J dressier Tetbury chukka on the 348.

Really considering another Inis Meain sweater from No Man Walks Alone. I'm starting to reach the point of too many sweaters, but it's hard to hold back when they are discounted.
 

mak1277

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I want to want a sweater, but I can honestly say I’ve never had one I liked wearing. They’re usually too scratchy and I find them uncomfortable to wear over a dress shirt. Any recommendations for something soft enough to wear over an undershirt?

really what I want is a sweater that is as comfortable as a fleece.
 

TheSuitBurnsBetter

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I want to want a sweater, but I can honestly say I’ve never had one I liked wearing. They’re usually too scratchy and I find them uncomfortable to wear over a dress shirt. Any recommendations for something soft enough to wear over an undershirt?

really what I want is a sweater that is as comfortable as a fleece.
For non-scratchy sweaters, in order of price, I'd say:
cashmere>camelhair>merino
 

smittycl

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I want to want a sweater, but I can honestly say I’ve never had one I liked wearing. They’re usually too scratchy and I find them uncomfortable to wear over a dress shirt. Any recommendations for something soft enough to wear over an undershirt?

really what I want is a sweater that is as comfortable as a fleece.
Cashmere crew necks from Zegna, Canali, Gran Sasso.
 

TheShetlandSweater

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I want to want a sweater, but I can honestly say I’ve never had one I liked wearing. They’re usually too scratchy and I find them uncomfortable to wear over a dress shirt. Any recommendations for something soft enough to wear over an undershirt?

really what I want is a sweater that is as comfortable as a fleece.
In what way do you find them uncomfortable to wear over a dress shirt? Too warm? Too scratchy? Something else?
 

smittycl

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In what way do you find them uncomfortable to wear over a dress shirt? Too warm? Too scratchy? Something else?
I'm the same way. I like Polo sweaters or crew necks over a t-shirt. Overheat too easily and hate scratchy stuff.
 

mak1277

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In what way do you find them uncomfortable to wear over a dress shirt? Too warm? Too scratchy? Something else?
too warm for sure. I also feel like they are constricting when worn over a dress shirt. Further I don’t like v-necks but the collar on crew necks is never comfortable when worn over a collared dress shirt.

this will sound weird but I generally dislike feeling my clothes. It’s not comfortable to wear anything form fitting and when I layer a sweater it feels too tight all around.
 

scurvyfreedman

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I want to want a sweater, but I can honestly say I’ve never had one I liked wearing. They’re usually too scratchy and I find them uncomfortable to wear over a dress shirt. Any recommendations for something soft enough to wear over an undershirt?

really what I want is a sweater that is as comfortable as a fleece.
I have some older Scottish cashmere sweaters I bought on EBay. One is Pringle, before it moved to Italy, branded by Harrod's. Probably from the early 80s. Very thin cashmere, but robust. The other is a cable knit from Drumohr for NPeal. So soft. Doesn't pill.

I bought my wife a scarf from Johnston's of Elgin. It's very nice cashmere, still made in Scotland on the older looms. I imagine the sweaters are just as good.

I have a newer Scott and Charters cashmere v-neck that's also very soft. Not as robust as the older knits.

I eventually want to buy a shawl cardigan from William Lockie. It's one of the last of the true original Scottish cashmere makers still in business. Put This On Article

I have one traditional Aran knit from O'Maille. It's hand knit and the wool is still raw - it has lanolin in it. For that reason it's as itchy as you think of sweaters being itchy. It's also very water resistant. It wears like a coat of armor. It's heavy and I use it as outerwear in the winter.

I have a few sweaters from Inis Meain as well. The merino wool Aran is very soft, but not nearly as soft as the cashmere sweaters I have, especially the Drumohr. It also pills a lot more too. I have no issues wearing it with just a t-shirt underneath. I have a different fisherman style from IM that is in a different wool. It's a little stiffer, but I wouldn't call it itchy. Then, I have a cotton/linen blend from IM as well. It is a totally different material in the way it drapes. It's both heavy in weight and light in heat retention. Not itchy at all, but starchy in a way.

BTW, I don't wear anything but a t-shirt under any of my sweaters. Anything else is just too bulky, uncomfortable. I will wear a long sleeve t-shirt under my O'Maille though in colder weather.
 

TheShetlandSweater

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too warm for sure. I also feel like they are constricting when worn over a dress shirt. Further I don’t like v-necks but the collar on crew necks is never comfortable when worn over a collared dress shirt.
Hmmm. If warmth is a problem, you might want to try a cardigan, even a shawl collar one (though you might want to opt for a thinner one). I find them less warm than a crewneck when worn open, because you have that front area that can breathe. Even when buttoned up some, a lot of your front will be uncovered. It's sort of like wearing a jacket indoors open. You can also take off a cardigan easily if you get too warm. I recently found out about a brand in Virginia, Winston, that does shawl collar cardigans made by Scott and Charters that are a bit thinner and shorter than what you normally see.

You can also try different materials, such as cotton or linen. Inis Meain makes some sweaters in these materials. They shouldn't wear as warm. I know Ben Silver stocks some like this, though most will be in their sale section this time of year.

I find that a sweater against the skin is much warmer than on top of a shirt. Not exactly sure why, though. I also find that sweaters over t-shirts aren't as comfortable as over a proper shirt because the t-shirt doesn't stay tucked in well and can thus bunch up uncomfortable under the sweater.

As for your collar problems, I mainly wear unlined OCBDs with sweaters and I don't have a problem with this. However, if you are wearing a collar with lining and a sweater is deforming it, I do see how that could be uncomfortable. Also, most sweater collars will become more comfortable after several wears. You can also always try a sweater with a wider neck-opening, like the one below.

1606322613845.png


With regards to being constrictive, (1) do you find your shirts constrictive normally? I normally wear pretty loose shirts and have no problems with feeling constricted. (2) Sweaters generally loosen up after several wears.
 

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mak1277

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Hmmm. If warmth is a problem, you might want to try a cardigan, even a shawl collar one (though you might want to opt for a thinner one). I find them less warm than a crewneck when worn open, because you have that front area that can breathe. Even when buttoned up some, a lot of your front will be uncovered. It's sort of like wearing a jacket indoors open. You can also take off a cardigan easily if you get too warm. I recently found out about a brand in Virginia, Winston, that does shawl collar cardigans made by Scott and Charters that are a bit thinner and shorter than what you normally see.

You can also try different materials, such as cotton or linen. Inis Meain makes some sweaters in these materials. They shouldn't wear as warm. I know Ben Silver stocks some like this, though most will be in their sale section this time of year.

I find that a sweater against the skin is much warmer than on top of a shirt. Not exactly sure why, though. I also find that sweaters over t-shirts aren't as comfortable as over a proper shirt because the t-shirt doesn't stay tucked in well and can thus bunch up uncomfortable under the sweater.

As for your collar problems, I mainly wear unlined OCBDs with sweaters and I don't have a problem with this. However, if you are wearing a collar with lining and a sweater is deforming it, I do see how that could be uncomfortable. Also, most sweater collars will become more comfortable after several wears. You can also always try a sweater with a wider neck-opening, like the one below.

View attachment 1504571

With regards to being constrictive, (1) do you find your shirts constrictive normally? I normally wear pretty loose shirts and have no problems with feeling constricted. (2) Sweaters generally loosen up after several wears.
thanks!

None of my dress shirts are too constricting, but I find many long sleeve casual shirts to be too tight. Today I’m wearing a waffle knit Cotton Henley that is borderline form fitting on my forearms and I’ve debated taking it off all morning. It’s not skin tight but I can definitely feel it. Another example would be long Johns....even when it’s super cold and I’m outdoors all day I’m loathe to wear them because I find them very uncomfortable due to how tight they fit.
 

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