The unofficial Drake's London Appreciation Thread

[Trevallon]

I'd like to ask an opinion on fit. Ordered the Houndstooth Wool Jacket on sale from Beige Habilleur on a whim. I am a little unsure about the fit. If you guys would help me out, it would be greatly appreciated.
This is a 42, I sized up for length, I am usually a 40L. (98 European).

What I am on the fence about: left shoulder seems off. (no?) length of the sleeves and overall length of the jacket.
Also in the picture: Drakes washed american Oxford Shirt, Drakes Chukkas and old Levis 501 STFs.

 

[mbb355]

I guess that explains why it looks so short on JJ in the lookbook. He probably sized down. It‘s really a weird fit and I‘ll have to send it back (sie 44/54). If anyone‘s selling the same size in the older cut, let me know

Yeah I'm typically between 36 and 38. I usually wear 38 in Drakes, but I went with the 36 in the fawn wool/cotton and, after a nip in the waist, it worked. The 38 was way too big in the chest. I was happy to make it work because I love the look of this jacket.

 

[Flight Of Ideas]

I'd like to ask an opinion on fit. Ordered the Houndstooth Wool Jacket on sale from Beige Habilleur on a whim. I am a little unsure about the fit. If you guys would help me out, it would be greatly appreciated.
This is a 42, I sized up for length, I am usually a 40L. (98 European).

What I am on the fence about: left shoulder seems off. (no?) length of the sleeves and overall length of the jacket.
Also in the picture: Drakes washed american Oxford Shirt, Drakes Chukkas and old Levis 501 STFs.

View attachment 1567091 View attachment 1567092 View attachment 1567093

In my personal opinion, the jacket is was too short. I‘m also taller than the regular person so I understand the frustration.

 

[mbb355]

I'd like to ask an opinion on fit. Ordered the Houndstooth Wool Jacket on sale from Beige Habilleur on a whim. I am a little unsure about the fit. If you guys would help me out, it would be greatly appreciated.
This is a 42, I sized up for length, I am usually a 40L. (98 European).

What I am on the fence about: left shoulder seems off. (no?) length of the sleeves and overall length of the jacket.
Also in the picture: Drakes washed american Oxford Shirt, Drakes Chukkas and old Levis 501 STFs.

View attachment 1567091 View attachment 1567092 View attachment 1567093

I think this looks great but it does seem a little...off-kilter? Like the whole thing is tilted to your left? Anyway you can just adjust the jacket on yourself? Or does it always veer to your left like that?

 

[Trevallon]

I think this looks great but it does seem a little...off-kilter? Like the whole thing is tilted to your left? Anyway you can just adjust the jacket on yourself? Or does it always veer to your left like that?

You are right, I realized this after taking the pictures. The jacket slid to one side (the left). I can adjust it in "the middle" but because the shoulders are a little to broad there is movement.

 

[mbb355]

In my personal opinion, the jacket is was too short. I‘m also taller than the regular person so I understand the frustration.

Can I ask what standard you're using to determine appropriate length? The jacket appears to roughly bisect the body from collar to feet, so it checks that box. And the front length drops slightly below the zipper, checking that box too. Judging where the jacket hits the hand/thumb can also be deceiving given arm-length variability.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

Can I ask what standard you're using to determine appropriate length? The jacket appears to roughly bisect the body from collar to feet, so it checks that box. And the front length drops slightly below the zipper, checking that box too. Judging where the jacket hits the hand/thumb can also be deceiving given arm-length variability.

I think a jacket needs (1) to cover the rear completely and (2) land somewhere along the thumb. Arm length is not something that can deceive but rather something that needs to be considered. I think the half-rule is dumb. People's eyes aren't good enough to say when the proportions are 1:1 vs. 29:32 but those minor differences are the ones that matter.

 

[mbb355]

I think a jacket needs (1) to cover the rear completely and (2) land somewhere along the thumb. Arm length is not something that can deceive but rather something that needs to be considered. I think the half-rule is dumb. People's eyes aren't good enough to say when the proportions are 1:1 vs. 29:32 but those minor differences are the ones that matter.

I agree with (1) and agree that the rear photo suggests the jacket falls a bit short. I'm not convinced on (2) and I think the bisecting rule is helpful. For one, bisecting can be measured. In any event, as long as (1) is satisfied, I won't get hung up on "1:1 vs 29:32." If the jacket satisfies (1) and bisects exactly or even closely enough, it'll look good

 

[Flight Of Ideas]

I agree with (1) and agree that the rear photo suggests the jacket falls a bit short. I'm not convinced on (2) and I think the bisecting rule is helpful. For one, bisecting can be measured. In any event, as long as (1) is satisfied, I won't get hung up on "1:1 vs 29:32." If the jacket satisfies (1) and bisects exactly or even closely enough, it'll look good

Fair point. I mean many brands offer jackets that are considerably shorter than the classic tailoring sport coat. It just makes me think of Boglioli - which isn‘t a bad thing per se, it just doesn‘t represent classical tailoring where proportions and shape are still a key point. I also strongly believe that a longer jacket would make you look more elegant and would fit you better. In the end, that‘s what we‘re all trying to achieve: look the best we can (while still having fun).

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

I agree with (1) and agree that the rear photo suggests the jacket falls a bit short. I'm not convinced on (2) and I think the bisecting rule is helpful. For one, bisecting can be measured. In any event, as long as (1) is satisfied, I won't get hung up on "1:1 vs 29:32." If the jacket satisfies (1) and bisects exactly or even closely enough, it'll look good

The thing is that all jackets that are debated are as similar as 1:1 and 29:32 are. That's a difference of a few inches.

 

[mak1277]

The Armoury's has a good YouTube video that talks at some length about jacket length. Their POV is basically:

1) cover the butt
2) 1:1 ratio
3) using the thumb may or may not be misleading if you have arms that are disproportionate
4) sport jackets can be shorter than suit coats and still look OK

 

[Trevallon]

The Armoury's has a good YouTube video that talks at some length about jacket length. Their POV is basically:

1) cover the butt
2) 1:1 ratio
3) using the thumb may or may not be misleading if you have arms that are disproportionate
4) sport jackets can be shorter than suit coats and still look OK

Thank you, that was very informative!

P.s.: I am returning the jacket...

 

[Nickd]

It looks fine in terms of length - especially if you are going to wear it with Japan’s. Sleeves are shorter than I would have them but don’t look too short. The left shoulder doesn’t look off - and the sleeve is sitting slightly longer on that side. It may be a little generous on the shoulders for you, but if you are going to wear knitwear underneath it could work well. It’s a lovely jacket. The chest fit looks spot on, which is interesting as I am a 40 in jackets too, although an R in my case.

 

[Nat25]

Somehow the $1000 'fleece' makes the $500 fleece look "cheap" in comparison and I'm not talking about price anchoring.

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i just sold my orange casentino fleece on grailed. Having unlined casentino is not easy or comfortable to wear, even in New York during the winter. Found myself never grabbing it to wear

 

[Flight Of Ideas]

The thing is that all jackets that are debated are as similar as 1:1 and 29:32 are. That's a difference of a few inches.

As the great Attolini once said, in tailoring one centimeter can feel like one kilometer.