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mbb355

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I'm not sure. Perhaps someone else here knows.

The only regionalisms I know: In the past, four-button cuff on suits and sport coats was considered the standard. This was especially true for Savile Row tailors, but many tailors tell me they've done other styles in the last twenty years as customers draw inspiration from different sources.

At the same time, there are lots of examples of conservative, British tailors making other things. This is an Anderson & Sheppard sport coat with a slightly more casual three-button cuff.

View attachment 1479303


This is at a Henry Poole trunk show, although I don't know if this coat is by Henry Poole.


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Neapolitan tailors tell me they've always preferred three buttons for sport coats and four buttons for suits. Here's Mariano in a three-button sport coat and four-button suit

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As you prob know, two-button is an old Ivy detail. It started with Brooks Brothers, but J Press later adopted it. J. Press first did it for thier Gordon Ford sport coats. In summerwear, they used it for sport coats in poplin, Madras, and seersucker; in fall it was used for corduroy. Later, the New York store adopted a two-button cuff for thier suits, which ended up constituting about 40 percent of their business.

The Ivy tradition was to have the two buttons spaced slightly apart, but not enough so that a third button could fit in the middle. Bobby Kennedy:

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The number of buttons can also distinguish rank or regiment in the foot guards of the British Army. This is used for what's known as "Home Service Dress," which is the official name of the ceremonial garb (what we imagine when we think of Brits marching around the palace). One button is Grenadier, two is Coldstream, three is Scots, four is Irish, and five is Welsh


View attachment 1479308View attachment 1479309


Prince Charles has a five-button cuff blazer, I assume deriving from military origins

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But he otherwise has a very conservative style and generally sticks with four buttons, which I've always understood to be the "standard." He even does four buttons on casual suits

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Lastly, I don't think people in the past were necessarily as strict or rulebound as we may imagine them today. Lots of photos of guys mixing it up with three-button suits, etc. Even very formal suits

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And Apparel Arts mixing it up. The first three photos show a two-button cuff. The fourth photo shows a sportier one-button cuff.


View attachment 1479316View attachment 1479317View attachment 1479318View attachment 1479319
Agree, thanks so much, loved reading this
 

nprose

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Back to the pricing conversation, is anyone else rueing the day they didn't pony up for the "Shirt of Summer," multi-stripe linen? I thought for sure it would come up on sale at some point...
 

polyfusion

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Back to the pricing conversation, is anyone else rueing the day they didn't pony up for the "Shirt of Summer," multi-stripe linen? I thought for sure it would come up on sale at some point...
I hesitated on the summer linen at the time as I prefer button downs, (and , they were expensive ) but have come to conclude that was a mistake and there’s a bit more chic in a spread collar when it comes to linen.
I also tried on the camp collars but something about that cut didn’t work for my body shape, though a big fan of camp collars in general and the way they totally transform a suit in the summer and give everything a new lease of life.
 

polyfusion

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While I’m here - another question I wanted to ask. Has anyone tried Drakes’s Made to measure service? I’m considering it for a winter suit at the moment, but not read of any experiences with it yet.
 

hpreston

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While I’m here - another question I wanted to ask. Has anyone tried Drakes’s Made to measure service? I’m considering it for a winter suit at the moment, but not read of any experiences with it yet.
I am pretty sure I did a longer write up previously, search the thread.....

I’ve done a sport coat and a suit. Both were successful and get a good amount of rotation.

I also like their MTM program for shirts......

They have a new overcoat MTM program that I am tempted to try.
 

polyfusion

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I am pretty sure I did a longer write up previously, search the thread.....

I’ve done a sport coat and a suit. Both were successful and get a good amount of rotation.

I also like their MTM program for shirts......

They have a new overcoat MTM program that I am tempted to try.
Thanks for pointing me in the direction of this . I must admit sometimes the length of this thread deters me doing a deep dive.
Also appreciate you taking one for the team in the MTM program. Seems like it was a hit for you. Just wondered - anything about your purchases you’ve noticed in terms of make quality that’s better than their ready to wear ? Obviously fit should be better but anything in terms of quality you’ve noticed? Also anywhere you’ve felt it was lacking? I have used a couple of cheaper bespoke tailors for not too far off the drakes MTM pricing so curious whether to opt for Drakes or low end bespoke on this next piece.
Coat offering sounds great too. I must ask them next time I’m in store .
 

hpreston

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I can’t say there is a huge (or any) difference in quality from Drakes OTR and Drakes MTM. What you’re getting is drakes silhouette (soft shoulder, mid range lapel width, less structure) in cloth of your choosing (but curated by drakes)

I did the sport coat first in an “Air Force Blue” hopsack, it is one of my most worn summer sport coats. In terms of fit it is spot on, and feels like an over shirt. Second pice was a chocolate brown corduroy suit, similar experience, although it came in late last winter, so I haven’t had much of a chance to wear it.

I don’t think you should discount a good MTM program in terms of nailing fit, have you seen of the results from other shops MTM in the MTM thread? Both of my pieces were spot on.
 

TokenMao

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I can’t say there is a huge (or any) difference in quality from Drakes OTR and Drakes MTM. What you’re getting is drakes silhouette (soft shoulder, mid range lapel width, less structure) in cloth of your choosing (but curated by drakes)

I did the sport coat first in an “Air Force Blue” hopsack, it is one of my most worn summer sport coats. In terms of fit it is spot on, and feels like an over shirt. Second pice was a chocolate brown corduroy suit, similar experience, although it came in late last winter, so I haven’t had much of a chance to wear it.

I don’t think you should discount a good MTM program in terms of nailing fit, have you seen of the results from other shops MTM in the MTM thread? Both of my pieces were spot on.
Do they do full canvas for MTM?
 

polyfusion

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I can’t say there is a huge (or any) difference in quality from Drakes OTR and Drakes MTM. What you’re getting is drakes silhouette (soft shoulder, mid range lapel width, less structure) in cloth of your choosing (but curated by drakes)

I did the sport coat first in an “Air Force Blue” hopsack, it is one of my most worn summer sport coats. In terms of fit it is spot on, and feels like an over shirt. Second pice was a chocolate brown corduroy suit, similar experience, although it came in late last winter, so I haven’t had much of a chance to wear it.

I don’t think you should discount a good MTM program in terms of nailing fit, have you seen of the results from other shops MTM in the MTM thread? Both of my pieces were spot on.
I once read a book by Dan Ariele which very vividly described our bias towards buying the middle product of three prices. Despite not necessarily representing the best value.

I’m definitely not discounting a good MTM program. Especially when you, and you clearly know what you’re talking about here , have had great experiences. In fact I’m very interested , and more so reading your breakdown. I am Just cautious on the price and taking a moment to reflect. Unlike some style forum members, I think their ready to wear suits represent good value, and in the sale, superb value. It’s quite hard to buy a suit with their style, good make and excellent fabric choices season after season if you like their house choices of wider lapels, soft shoulders etc. as I do. At MTM prices though, I must say things become more competitive. I also don’t love being fitted by salesmen. I’ve had made to measure before on several occasions and conveying fit issues isn’t always easy when the cutter isn’t in the room.
 

Jlord

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Nice pic of the plaid coat on Twitter.



Also, some Todd Snyder x Drake's exclusives. The green cardigan looks nice. Really nice shade of green.



View attachment 1478759
I think you'll find a similar colour on the Winston & Co. Cardi


These ones are made by S&C.

I just posted a review on reddit of the exact piece.
 

Gerry Nelson

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I think you'll find a similar colour on the Winston & Co. Cardi


These ones are made by S&C.

I just posted a review on reddit of the exact piece.
That was a great review. I liked the info about the various yarns as well.
 

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