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letsgofire

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Surprised these Cheaney x drakes shoes haven’t generated more chat? I think they’re rather nice. No idea of the quality though. Am assuming better than grenson, not as good as Crockett . I.e Cheaney....
There was some discussion in a Reddit group. Not really the same audience as here though.
 

platinumtooth

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Very very cool! Do you feel like that 'tropical' weight will stand up to autumn temps?
Thanks! And yeah I think it will for sure. Maybe not solo when it's near freezing, but I sized up so it's a perfect outer layer for whatever I'm wearing underneath.

Additionally, it's lined in a myriad of similarly bold colored linen, colorblocked. I wish I could wear this thing reversed, it's such a neat surprise.

I have little experience with Drake's stuff, tbh, as I'm not rich nor into (some) CM styles, but I can 100% see why this jacket would be tons o bucks. Just very happy to see an archive sale so I could get my hands on it.
 

OldTown

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Moving away from more typical Drake's posting to something like @dieworkwear said, "Check out this cool jawns!"

(And as mentioned previously, when I see a coat I really want go down to $200, I buy that shit.)
View attachment 1478936
The hell is this? Did I take a wrong turn and end up in some 20 year old's streetwear thread?
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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The hell is this? Did I take a wrong turn and end up in some 20 year old's streetwear thread?
Why not post your objection more politely or constructively? Or add something that you think contributes something positive or interesting to the thread? What does "20 year old streetwear thread" even mean?

For a guy who wears suits with a 6" leg opening, you post surprisingly like a guy who wears a 9" leg opening.
 

Kawrou

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Thanks! And yeah I think it will for sure. Maybe not solo when it's near freezing, but I sized up so it's a perfect outer layer for whatever I'm wearing underneath.

Additionally, it's lined in a myriad of similarly bold colored linen, colorblocked. I wish I could wear this thing reversed, it's such a neat surprise.

I have little experience with Drake's stuff, tbh, as I'm not rich nor into (some) CM styles, but I can 100% see why this jacket would be tons o bucks. Just very happy to see an archive sale so I could get my hands on it.
I really wanted to get that...and at that price...unfortunately I messed up the timing. Seeing the picture on the archive sale yet with no sizes available and your comments hurtso_O.
Can only find it brown or blue now, but like the orange more.
 

platinumtooth

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The hell is this? Did I take a wrong turn and end up in some 20 year old's streetwear thread?
Aw man, the hoodie got you heated?
"20 year old streetwear"-fuckin stay seated

could it be the baggy green cargos?
or the hunter orange jacket, lookin' like I'm from Fargo

hatin' on the Timbs, they 3 eye lug
so fuckin pissed while I simply shrug

You really wanna shit on someone's party
Guess I should post another knockoff Drake's cardi?

I'm supporting the brand, I'm reppin the shit
You'd rather talk about all the impeccable knits

talk that talk, you put the old in oldtown
I'll leave it to Maceo, hoe sit down
 

kaizerpi

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Surprising given that 18east is literally from the same designer as Eidos. I’d love to see some hype around Drakes in the vein of Lo-heads. I think Derek’s written about it via commentary on Rowing Blazers/Noah/ALD?
 

mbb355

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anyone have any thoughts/opinions/experience with one-button jacket sleeves, like below?

1602991456621.png
 

dieworkwear

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anyone have any thoughts/opinions/experience with one-button jacket sleeves, like below?

View attachment 1479254
I like it. It's a sporty casual detail. In some Apparel Arts drawings, you'll see a one-button cuff on a very sporty tweed or a linen jacket. They always described as something you'd wear to a polo match or a resort or something (anachronistic now, but I think helps contextualizes it as a casual detail).

I generally prefer it on bolder patterns, like a large scale check. That way, the one-button style sort of blends in with the pattern and doesn't look as unusual. But it can also look nice on a solid fabric. If it were me, I would do a two-button cuff on a casual, solid-colored garment, and then a one-button cuff on something with a pattern, but I think it's a matter of taste.

One thing to consider: the sleeve button should be the same size as the coat's front buttons. Most ready-to-wear garments come with smaller buttons for the cuff, as you would want with "normal sleeves." So if you get a one button cuff, you either have to source matching sleeve buttons in the same size as the front of the coat, or ask the tailor to swap out all the buttons on your jacket so they match.


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mbb355

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Thank you! Great images and really informative. I agree it's a really nice detail--sporty as you say, and a kind of unique flourish, but still subtle. I was thinking of going one jacket sleeve button on a brown sportcoat with a subtle glen check. So you have the pattern, which helps with the blending as you say. And you also have the dark brown button on dark brown jacket, which further helps with blending.
 

mbb355

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I'm curious about the origin of the one-button jacket sleeve--whether it's originally a Neapolitan "sprezzatura" thing, or more of an Ivy/Americana detail
 

Sammm

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Surprising given that 18east is literally from the same designer as Eidos. I’d love to see some hype around Drakes in the vein of Lo-heads. I think Derek’s written about it via commentary on Rowing Blazers/Noah/ALD?
Some of the Drake’s x ALD looks are pure gold, I think. The one with wallabees, sweatpants, a hoodie under a grey tweed blazer, a scarf and a beanie is so sweet. Would love to see more in that direction as well.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I'm curious about the origin of the one-button jacket sleeve--whether it's originally a Neapolitan "sprezzatura" thing, or more of an Ivy/Americana detail
I'm not sure. Perhaps someone else here knows.

The only regionalisms I know: In the past, four-button cuff on suits and sport coats was considered the standard. This was especially true for Savile Row tailors, but many tailors tell me they've done other styles in the last twenty years as customers draw inspiration from different sources.

At the same time, there are lots of examples of conservative, British tailors making other things. This is an Anderson & Sheppard sport coat with a slightly more casual three-button cuff.

tumblr_inline_nvks1rpxCS1qfex1b_540.jpg



This is at a Henry Poole trunk show, although I don't know if this coat is by Henry Poole.


tumblr_inline_nvi8kbB44L1qfex1b_540.jpg



Neapolitan tailors tell me they've always preferred three buttons for sport coats and four buttons for suits. Here's Mariano in a three-button sport coat and four-button suit

tumblr_mby7nrL6Ln1qbcjkvo1_1280-1.jpg

tumblr_obkv3zLwIs1qaqv3ro1_400.jpg



As you prob know, two-button is an old Ivy detail. It started with Brooks Brothers, but J Press later adopted it. J. Press first did it for thier Gordon Ford sport coats. In summerwear, they used it for sport coats in poplin, Madras, and seersucker; in fall it was used for corduroy. Later, the New York store adopted a two-button cuff for thier suits, which ended up constituting about 40 percent of their business.

The Ivy tradition was to have the two buttons spaced slightly apart, but not enough so that a third button could fit in the middle. Bobby Kennedy:

tumblr_inline_nysnueLqx21qfex1b_540.jpg




The number of buttons can also distinguish rank or regiment in the foot guards of the British Army. This is used for what's known as "Home Service Dress," which is the official name of the ceremonial garb (what we imagine when we think of Brits marching around the palace). One button is Grenadier, two is Coldstream, three is Scots, four is Irish, and five is Welsh


9361818669_2a03b145f1_k.jpg
H20703-L142152986.jpg



Prince Charles has a five-button cuff blazer, I assume deriving from military origins

1293492-162ae380e6f24bd7127ad4121bf95291.png


But he otherwise has a very conservative style and generally sticks with four buttons, which I've always understood to be the "standard." He even does four buttons on casual suits

tumblr_inline_odskluBybk1qfex1b_540.jpg

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dd60dab73c78bfe367a02323f2032643.jpg



Lastly, I don't think people in the past were necessarily as strict or rulebound as we may imagine them today. Lots of photos of guys mixing it up with three-button suits, etc. Even very formal suits

tumblr_inline_nysnqxY0pX1qfex1b_540.jpg
tumblr_inline_nvcxbj2DOr1qfex1b_540.jpg



And Apparel Arts mixing it up. The first three photos show a two-button cuff. The fourth photo shows a sportier one-button cuff.


tumblr_inline_p8ozr8Jc1a1qfex1b_540.jpg
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unnamed (1).jpg
 
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polyfusion

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I'm not sure. Perhaps someone else here knows.

The only regionalisms I know: In the past, four-button cuff on suits and sport coats was considered the standard. This was especially true for Savile Row tailors, but many tailors tell me they've done other styles in the last twenty years as customers draw inspiration from different sources.

At the same time, there are lots of examples of conservative, British tailors making other things. This is an Anderson & Sheppard sport coat with a slightly more casual three-button cuff.

View attachment 1479303


This is at a Henry Poole trunk show, although I don't know if this coat is by Henry Poole.


View attachment 1479304


Neapolitan tailors tell me they've always preferred three buttons for sport coats and four buttons for suits. Here's Mariano in a three-button sport coat and four-button suit

View attachment 1479305
View attachment 1479306


As you prob know, two-button is an old Ivy detail. It started with Brooks Brothers, but J Press later adopted it. J. Press first did it for thier Gordon Ford sport coats. In summerwear, they used it for sport coats in poplin, Madras, and seersucker; in fall it was used for corduroy. Later, the New York store adopted a two-button cuff for thier suits, which ended up constituting about 40 percent of their business.

The Ivy tradition was to have the two buttons spaced slightly apart, but not enough so that a third button could fit in the middle. Bobby Kennedy:

View attachment 1479307



The number of buttons can also distinguish rank or regiment in the foot guards of the British Army. This is used for what's known as "Home Service Dress," which is the official name of the ceremonial garb (what we imagine when we think of Brits marching around the palace). One button is Grenadier, two is Coldstream, three is Scots, four is Irish, and five is Welsh


View attachment 1479308View attachment 1479309


Prince Charles has a five-button cuff blazer, I assume deriving from military origins

View attachment 1479310

But he otherwise has a very conservative style and generally sticks with four buttons, which I've always understood to be the "standard." He even does four buttons on casual suits

View attachment 1479311
View attachment 1479312View attachment 1479313


Lastly, I don't think people in the past were necessarily as strict or rulebound as we may imagine them today. Lots of photos of guys mixing it up with three-button suits, etc. Even very formal suits

View attachment 1479314View attachment 1479315


And Apparel Arts mixing it up. The first three photos show a two-button cuff. The fourth photo shows a sportier one-button cuff.


View attachment 1479316View attachment 1479317View attachment 1479318View attachment 1479319
Fascinating post and why I love classic menswear. Thankyou for taking the time to post.
 

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