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polyfusion

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Anyway, I realize prices are soaring in fashion and we all have reason to grumble, but prices are also the most boring aspect of fashion. I wish sometimes this thread would move beyond just a discussion about how much something cost, as it's been a 9-year discussion on this singular topic alone.

I thought a bit more about this post. And would like to learn more What you meant Derek.
I’m curious - as on OG of this thread, of drakes and of the whole forum.. beyond the “value” proposition, what are we not talking about or noticing about Drakes, I wonder?
 

dieworkwear

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I thought a bit more about this post. And would like to learn more What you meant Derek.
I’m curious - as on OG of this thread, of drakes and of the whole forum.. beyond the “value” proposition, what are we not talking about or noticing about Drakes, I wonder?

Definitely not an OG of anything, and not trying to dictate the thread. Just bored of constantly talking about prices.

I don't know. The other threads I follow -- Lemaire, Jacques Marie Mage, and even bespoke tailoring related threads -- people talk about price, but it's not the only subject. People just get excited about clothes. Sometimes it feels like when there's any bubbling of excitement or joy in here, there's a few people who are happy to throw water on it. It's just kind of a buzz kill.

Anyway, random things I noticed:


Drake's apparently released a new scarf with ALD (here I'll go with price: the scarf is listed as $450 or so at Drake's site, but $250 or so at ALD. Not sure why). I dig the design though.

Aime_FW20_D1_R3_Flats_042_2000x.jpg

scf-02sil-20472-001-1.jpg



For some reason, it reminds me of vintage sports cars (which I suppose is kind of in ALD's style). I can imagine it being worn with the outfit on the left here:


4_8204478b-ed86-4c73-b8ce-730c84045778_2000x.jpg




I also dig the bal coats this season, but was wondering if I think it would look better as a wider coat. I've noticed bal coats come in very different widths, I suppose because we're in this transitional phase between slim fits and "traditional" fits.

Camoshita makes a very wide bal coat. I think the cut is ideal, personally. On a size 38 coat, the chest measures 47" around

-camoshita-wool-balmacaan-overcoat-camel-.jpg



Compare that to Uniqlo's bal coat this season, which is much slimmer (also only $99, although made from a poly-blend) The cut just doesn't have the same verve to me.

goods_429298_sub8.jpg



Love Bruce's cashmere Oxxford bal coat here (given to him as a gift by the head of Oxxford sometime in the 90s, if I remember correctly). Thing fits huge, but I think looks great.

Bruce4.jpg



Simon's bal coat collaboration with Private White VC is on the slim side of traditional. The size 38 is a 42" chest (kind of "standard" outerwear size, I think, given today's silhouettes).

Screen Shot 2020-10-15 at 2.30.03 PM.png



I don't know what Drake's measures, but it seems to be between Private White VC and Camoshita in terms of width.


out-73woo-20856-002-1.jpg

out-73woo-20856-001-1.jpg
 

polyfusion

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Definitely not an OG of anything, and not trying to dictate the thread. Just bored of constantly talking about prices.

I don't know. The other threads I follow -- Lemaire, Jacques Marie Mage, and even bespoke tailoring related threads -- people talk about price, but it's not the only subject. People just get excited about clothes. Sometimes it feels like when there's any bubbling of excitement or joy in here, there's a few people who are happy to throw water on it. It's just kind of a buzz kill.

Anyway, random things I noticed:


Drake's apparently released a new scarf with ALD (here I'll go with price: the scarf is listed as $450 or so at Drake's site, but $250 or so at ALD. Not sure why). I dig the design though.

View attachment 1477952
View attachment 1477953


For some reason, it reminds me of vintage sports cars (which I suppose is kind of in ALD's style). I can imagine it being worn with the outfit on the left here:


View attachment 1477951



I also dig the bal coats this season, but was wondering if I think it would look better as a wider coat. I've noticed bal coats come in very different widths, I suppose because we're in this transitional phase between slim fits and "traditional" fits.

Camoshita makes a very wide bal coat. I think the cut is ideal, personally. On a size 38 coat, the chest measures 47" around

View attachment 1477955


Compare that to Uniqlo's bal coat this season, which is much slimmer (also only $99, although made from a poly-blend) The cut just doesn't have the same verve to me.

View attachment 1477956


Love Bruce's cashmere Oxxford bal coat here (given to him as a gift by the head of Oxxford sometime in the 90s, if I remember correctly). Thing fits huge, but I think looks great.

View attachment 1477954


Simon's bal coat collaboration with Private White VC is on the slim side of traditional. The size 38 is a 42" chest (kind of "standard" outerwear size, I think, given today's silhouettes).

View attachment 1477958


I don't know what Drake's measures, but it seems to be between Private White VC and Camoshita in terms of width.


View attachment 1477960
View attachment 1477959
Didn’t mean to put you on the spot, but I appreciate your input when I read it and was curious as to what else was on your mind, aside from, as you correctly point out, the drudgery or talking about prices all the time.
I love the aesthetic of a less fitted coat silhouette; as you point out. for me Bruce and drakes have the nicer proportions of your highlights... though for me personally, with my boxier Eastern European shape, I tend to have to go a bit more fitted, myself. Though I would rather not, and am enjoying the move away in menswear from skinny to comfort .
 

nostalgiaultra

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I also dig the bal coats this season, but was wondering if I think it would look better as a wider coat. I've noticed bal coats come in very different widths, I suppose because we're in this transitional phase between slim fits and "traditional" fits.

In terms of length, I think Bal's look best when they end below the knee. Drake's and other modern Bal's tend to stop at, or just above the knee which creates unflatteringly proportions IMO. I think they would benefit from a few more inches in length.

Screen Shot 2020-10-15 at 2.59.55 PM.png

Screen Shot 2020-10-15 at 3.21.18 PM.png

Screen Shot 2020-10-15 at 3.14.56 PM.png
 

K. Nights

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The bal coat is really cool. It only seems to go up to size 40 in the grey herringbone, which seems weird. Maybe they'll add additional sizes later on
 

nycs10011

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Fwiw the description for the casentino wool coat says woven in the casentino region, but it doesn’t seem to have that fresh from the garbage disposal look to it like casentino cloth.

I've never been a huge fan of casentino but something about this texture/ color combo really appeals to me.
 

dieworkwear

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In terms of length, I think Bal's look best when they end below the knee. Drake's and other modern Bal's tend to stop at, or just above the knee which creates unflatteringly proportions IMO. I think they would benefit from a few more inches in length.

View attachment 1477987
View attachment 1477983
View attachment 1477988

Sebastian's coat (first pic) is one of my favorites. Was bummed to learn it's vintage. One of those things where I was hoping to buy one on the market, but then hear it's some crazy find in a dusty vintage shop in a very far away city.

I love the Camoshita version, but the collar behaves a little like a peacoat collar -- it either sits flat and folded, or it pops straight up. You can see it in the way Yasuto wears it

tumblr_6ed85ae4621ad62d7e2cbdf0a2df87b9_5153a971_540.jpg

tumblr_pleukhWSeA1sqvfx4o1_1280-684x1024.jpg



The Drake's version seemingly has a collar where you can pop it from the back, and the collar points will still somewhat flop over, which I think it's a little more manageable

9_5.jpg
1_7.jpg



Patched ticket pocket is also a little Kaptain Sunshine-y

ECD973E0-C306-4F56-8FD7-872401F21AC7.jpg
 

slows2k

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Would the coat be better if belted?

I don't think so. The bulky silhouette is spot on, I think, for the style. Everything on it is chunky: the collar, the pockets, the pattern. I think it would seem a little off if it were slim or more shapely. I like how it hangs straight with a slight bell. "A" shaped, especially with the gusset in the back. It lends it a casualness that lets it likely look as good over a henley as it does a jacket.

9_5.jpg

35.jpg


Reminds me a lot of the KS traveler coat, which is one I really came around to, but a little more trad.
 

smittycl

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.
 

kaizerpi

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I still lust after a KS traveler coat. Staying on the coat subject, I'm planning on getting a nice, chunky cardigan for work from home to layer over a shirt or less textured sweater e.g. a rollneck. But I also imagine potentially layering a cardigan under outerwear. Is this how it should look tho? The raised shawl collard cardigan against the coat just seems...vulva-like?

1_7.jpg
 

smittycl

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I still lust after a KS traveler coat. Staying on the coat subject, I'm planning on getting a nice, chunky cardigan for work from home to layer over a shirt or less textured sweater e.g. a rollneck. But I also imagine potentially layering a cardigan under outerwear. Is this how it should look tho? The raised shawl collard cardigan against the coat just seems...vulva-like?

1_7.jpg
Probably better with one of their thicker crew neck sweaters?
 
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