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dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I’ve noticed there’s a bit of canvass one-upmanship. TF has 3 layers of canvas for their Windsor model, but RL is advertising 4 layers of canvas for their Gregory.
I don't think RL uses four layers of canvas, but rather four layers of material, three of which include haircloth, wool canvas, and cotton domette/ flannel.

Tom Ford uses a very heavy chest piece to achieve thier look. This is what I mean by how these materials are better thought of as achieving a look, not ingredients for "quality." It's the style that matters.
 

othertravel

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I don't think RL uses four layers of canvas, but rather four layers of material, three of which include haircloth, wool canvas, and cotton domette/ flannel.

Tom Ford uses a very heavy chest piece to achieve thier look. This is what I mean by how these materials are better thought of as achieving a look, not ingredients for "quality." It's the style that matters.
Right Here’s the actual pic:

A700BA96-E776-4D5F-87E5-6D289CFE807B.png

I see what you mean. The canvassing itself is a 4-layer blend.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I see what you mean. The canvassing itself is a 4-layer blend.
I think that's just bad copywriting. Canvas as a material is typically made from a blend of horsehair, wool, and cotton. A company wouldn't use four layers of canvas. They would just use a different grade of canvas to achieve a certain effect.
 

Rugger

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If anyone has any drakes ties they're thinking about letting go please PM me what youve got
 

K. Nights

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Anyone have one of the cotton overshirts? Not the seasonal offerings or cotton twill, just the normal cotton that they stock year round. Wondering how substantial the fabric is
 

Sammm

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Anyone have one of the cotton overshirts? Not the seasonal offerings or cotton twill, just the normal cotton that they stock year round. Wondering how substantial the fabric is
Having tried it on, I found it a bit too thin for my liking. Same with the cotton/cashmere model from last season – to me it felt a bit too much like a shirt, not enough like a jacket. I have the khaki linen which is quite substantial, feels just right to me. Last season they also had a washed khaki linen which had a beautiful texture but again was a bit thinner than I liked. For my next fix I think I’ll go for one of their chore jackets for a more substantial feel.

Edit: to be precise, I tried the navy cotton one in 2018. I’m guessing the khaki cotton is similar and that they’re both the same today, but that is a guess.
 
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hpreston

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Regarding Drakes construction, FWIW, they don’t advertise, but I’ve confirmed with the Drakes team, if you do MTM, the garments are constructed with full canvas

Question for @dieworkwear or anyone else with knowledge, regarding canvasssing, half/full etc. Is a half canvassed garment required to be have some fusing, or can a jacket be constructed with half canvass and no fusing?
 

othertravel

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Regarding Drakes construction, FWIW, they don’t advertise, but I’ve confirmed with the Drakes team, if you do MTM, the garments are constructed with full canvas
This may confirm that they’re choosing half canvass for OTR as a cost-savings measure, and not necessarily for design/style purposes.

Either way, I do love the tailoring this year.
 

othertravel

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Regarding Drakes construction, FWIW, they don’t advertise, but I’ve confirmed with the Drakes team, if you do MTM, the garments are constructed with full canvas

Question for @dieworkwear or anyone else with knowledge, regarding canvasssing, half/full etc. Is a half canvassed garment required to be have some fusing, or can a jacket be constructed with half canvass and no fusing?
I’ve had half canvassed jackets that were also half lined that had no fusing.
 

whorishconsumer

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Here’s what I can see of canvassing in the glencheck, which is linen and only lined in the arms. The product page lists the jacket as half-canvas.

5D9CE644-9AF7-4919-9510-6D9BDA1293E1.jpeg
 
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Mr. Six

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When Drake’s first introduced tailored jackets made by Belvest they were half-canvased and unlined. By unlined I mean that the interior was partially self-lined with fabric in the front and (maybe) completely unlined In back. Because there wasn’t full lining in front they couldn’t be fully canvassed—if they had been fully canvassed the material would have been exposed below the self-lining. The result—which was pretty clearly what they wanted—was a lightweight jacket with minimal structure.

Since there was no lining, it was easy to look at the internal material. I don’t remember seeing any fusible in the couple that I looked at, but they were both tweed or heavier material so there wasn’t likely to be any need.

I haven’t checked out the jackets for several years so have no idea how Lardini is making them now.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Regarding Drakes construction, FWIW, they don’t advertise, but I’ve confirmed with the Drakes team, if you do MTM, the garments are constructed with full canvas

Question for @dieworkwear or anyone else with knowledge, regarding canvasssing, half/full etc. Is a half canvassed garment required to be have some fusing, or can a jacket be constructed with half canvass and no fusing?
It's possible to make a half-canvassed jacket without fusing, but I've never heard of it being done. Maybe Drake's does it on some coats, as @Mr. Six says. I don't know. I've only ever heard of half-canvas with fusing.

Here’s what I can see of canvassing in the glencheck, which is linen and only lined in the arms. The product page lists the jacket as half-canvas.

View attachment 1385778
The white bit you see at the bottom is the fusible.
 

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