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***The Official Dior Homme Thread***

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by SirGrotius, Feb 20, 2012.

  1. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

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    His collections have been pretty fucking weak especially compared to his predecessor. There's so many designers that aren't utilizing their talent, especially with the recession - Theyskens, Branquinho, etc.

    I don't think Branquinho would be a good fit, btw, just that so many brands collapsed the last few years that there's a lot of talent up for grabs.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2012
  2. oneeightyseven

    oneeightyseven Senior member

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    I don't know, I haven't seen them as all that bad. like the asymmetrical shit he put out a couple seasons ago were awesome
     
  3. Roygbivuxg

    Roygbivuxg Senior member

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    Thank god it's for the womens line. I know I'm in the minority when I say this but I like KVA's dior homme just as much as slimane's, possibly even more, although that might have a little to do with me not being around for the slimane years. It's hard to compare the two when their styles are so different. Really curious what Raf will come up with for Dior as he's not an obvious choice for the house.
     
    3 people like this.
  4. SirGrotius

    SirGrotius Senior member

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    I'd be surprised to see KVA go so soon. My impression is they're making mullah off his sneakers and other accessories, and I like some of his designs though I'm more of a Hedi fan.
     
  5. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

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    I guess it's possible, but go look at the RP thread from like '07 and there's dior homme on like every page. I can't think of the last person that posted a fit or a recent purchase with dior here besides the jeans. The sneakers definitely aren't as nice, and while I don't hate a lot of KVA's designs (really didn't like fw 12 though) for the price it commands i'd have to absolutely love it. Not saying he's going to get fired for this, because Slimane is a really talented designer and there aren't a lot of guys like that out there, but I find it hard to believe it's selling as well as it was in '06/'07.
     
  6. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    I understand the idolization of Hedi, but I don't share in it.
     
  7. Fuuma

    Fuuma Senior member

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    Maybe but you probably don't buy any DH pieces, like other people who say they like KVA on forums. What is different is that people who used to purchase DH stopped (well this specific segment). Diorbeasting is not as prevalent as it was before and I know plenty of people who sold all their DH pieces, I personally kept 3 or so.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. GoldenTribe

    GoldenTribe Senior member

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    I don't mind KVA's own eponymous line, but if he's got that, there is no reason he should have to leave such a similar imprint on Dior. DH feels watered down and misdirected under KVA imo. Nearly everything that made it Dior under Hedi has been gutted, and while Hedi churned out a unique, must-have sneaker or jacket every five minutes, I haven't seen a single thing from DH in ages (2 years+) that I would even want on sale.

    The only KVA-DH item I have is the broken glass sweater, and he hasn't come up with anything else I would put on my wish list except maybe a pair of the super-long-lace rear-zip sneakers. If pre-07 Dior was still in stores, I'd be buying pieces by the dozens.

    I don't get the people who say they don't get the Hedi love, and it's not because I have any specific loyalty to the man.
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2012
    2 people like this.
  9. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

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    Quote:
    +1, but you also bring up something I don't fully understand - most of the Slimane stuff still looks current to me, and I'd wear a ton of it, but most of the people I know that had it when it was out think it's dated and have sold off most of their shit. I can't tell if I'm just a couple years behind the current trends (possibly, this city is still a flannel shirt wasteland) or if it's something else - I get sick of clothes after 4-5 years too, so maybe that's all it is.
     
  10. Fuuma

    Fuuma Senior member

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    This slim rockerish stuff is dead. Can't stand it anymore. It's ok to keep either some of the tailoring or absolute classic (I still have the luster black waxed jeans).
     
  11. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    I guess that's the difference for me. I'm not buying Dior now, but I don't really lust over the Hedi pieces either. I like them, and I can definitely appreciate how menswear changed under Hedi's influence (how could you not? if you've bought a pair of jeans in the last five years you probably owe a thanks to Hedi for how they look), but it's not the sort of stuff I lust over. I do like the cultural reference points he draws on—like Richard Hell, The Ramones, punk in general—but it's not how I dress myself. That said, if I knew anything about fashion when I was 17, Hedi probably would've been my favorite designer working. Maybe I just missed the boat.
     
  12. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

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    I don't have the build for DH, so I've never really lusted after his more typical super-slim stuff, but there's so many gems in those collections that break out from that (gold boots, etc) that I'd love to own, and I still really like loose-fitting 19cms. Maybe you can't exactly attribute the blazer + tshirt + carrot fit jeans thing directly to him but it's still one of my favorite looks.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. Zeemon

    Zeemon Senior member

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    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]

    i really like the soundtrack it's one of my favorite german songs
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2012
  14. Roygbivuxg

    Roygbivuxg Senior member

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    You make a good point. The only DH pieces I own are denim and the first DH collection I was around for was ss09 (awful). Like other KVA fans, I prioritize purchasing KVA (the label) products over DH ones, simply because I like the look more and think they work better with my body type. It's been rare that DH under KVA out-shined KVA's own line, but I think FW12 is a perfect example.

    I too am glad that the slim rocker look is dead, but I don't agree with those saying current DH is "watered down", whatever that means. A new designer will naturally bring a new look to a brand--just because KVA designs are less severe (maybe even less directional) than Slimane ones doesn't mean his collections have less "substance". From what I can see, KVA's collections (both for DH and his own label) are some of the most cohesive to be released every season. As an example, I don't think anyone expects Raf to incorporate the flair and over-the-top styling which Galliano was known for in his Dior--I expect the women's line to take on Raf's simplified approach. You wouldn't call that "watered down" right? It would just be natural brand evolution. Feel free to enlighten me if my reasoning here is incorrect or if I've misunderstood something.
     
  15. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

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    I don't agree with most of what you said really, but you've got to work under the design umbrella of the house when you're working for one of those big French labels.
     
  16. wurm

    wurm Senior member

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    The people running these labels now don't really care about any kind of specific look though. They just concern themselves with profits and making sure they maintain a luxury brand image. Dior, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Balmain, etc. made clothes completely different from the designers running their namesake houses today. The evidence is even there for Raf's work at Jil Sander - it's quite different from Jil's aesthetic.
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2012
  17. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

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    That 'luxury brand image' is important though. You can't just do whatever you want when designing for one of those big houses; there has to be continuity. That's why Balenciaga is still modernist 60 years later, Lanvin still keeps the focus on fabrics, etc.
     
  18. shibbel

    shibbel Senior member

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    huh?
    

    Raf gave JS his own touch, that's for sure, but you'd be mistaken if you're saying it was a total departure. He did a pretty good job of pulling from the JS past, and from my understanding, this was one of the attributes Dior liked.
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2012
  19. randomkoreandude

    randomkoreandude Senior member

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    anyone know if the LA dior homme store has the raw mij 19cm in selvedge? i know they carry the normal raw mij 19cm in blue and black but hoping to find a pair in selvedge
     
  20. bob99

    bob99 Senior member

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    From what I've read, the 19cm cut means a 19cm leg opening based on a standard size 32 waist. For every drop in size, remove 0.5 cm from the leg opening.

    Can anyone comment on the maximum size that DH denim looks good? I know they make it large, but to get the actual effect it seems like you've got to be wearing a pair with a sub-32 waist.

    I'm off to NYC next week, and thinking of picking up some of the raws. Do they sell both the MII and MIJ at the store? Is there a difference in the price, or a big reason to get one over the other? MII = Nostalgy, MIJ = Brut.
     

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