The Official Dieworkwear Appreciation Thread

[BomTrady]

@dieworkwear Apropos to nothing at all in this discussion thread, do you think it's appropriate to wear opera pumps at a winter formal evening occasion? The vamp is pretty high, but still seems like a summer type shoe to me. Thanks in advance! I'd be curious to hear anyone else's opinion too.

 

[Gus]

I feel like this is as good a place as any to ask :

I don't really have much need for tailored clothing in my current life, but I have been thinking about getting a sport coat for those special evening occasions where it wouldn't be necessary but would be fun - like a NYE part at a friend's place, going out for cocktails on my birthday, anniversary dinner, etc.
Something that doesn't look like officewear.

Anyone have suggestions on cloth, color, pattern, etc?

How about a black velvet jacket? It certainly won't look like "officewear". (Alan Flusser used to recommend a chocolate velvet for maximum day/evening flexibility). Having owned a couple, I found it far more versatile than most might think. Of course you can wear it with grey flannels for a fancy evening but I most often wore it for "fun" to dinner or cocktail parties or even lunch in the city with a white shirt and jeans.

 

[dieworkwear]

@dieworkwear Apropos to nothing at all in this discussion thread, do you think it's appropriate to wear opera pumps at a winter formal evening occasion? The vamp is pretty high, but still seems like a summer type shoe to me. Thanks in advance!

I've never thought of opera pumps as being a seasonal shoe, only as a formal evening shoe. I think they'd look appropriate any time you're wearing black tie, regardless of the season. Most men wear black tie during the winter months (e.g. New Year's Eve parties, holiday parties, and the very rare ball).

When you look through those Golden Age photos of men wearing black tie, many of them wore their opera pumps during the wintertime because that was when balls and big parties were held. A photo of Oscar de la Renta and Françoise de Langlade exiting a Truman Capote's famous ball in November 1966:

 

[deanandrewj]

Some ideas, including things you may have seen me mention elsewhere:

Many of the events you mentioned sound like evening activities, and I sort of think that afternoon and evening outfits should be distinct (somewhat). So with that in mind.

View attachment 1715293 View attachment 1715292


A Mohair Suit

Mohair has a slight sheen that I think looks really nice at night. Some guys wear it during the daytime, but I think the sheen is less appealing when the sun's out. In the evening, however, it reflects light in this really nice way.

Most mohair fabrics are a mohair-wool blend because mohair is too brittle on its own. So the more mohair content, the more sheen. I like 40% mohair to 60% wool -- anything above 50% and you're getting into Rat Pack territory. Does well in evening colors such as grey, navy, and even olive. I often wear a mohair suit to get dinner: grey-olive mohair suit with a charcoal turtleneck or long-sleeved polo, black tassel loafers, and typically no pocket square. If you want to dress it up, you can do a white shirt with a black knit tie.

View attachment 1715307 View attachment 1715323


A Dark Flannel Suit

The versatile option. If you only have one suit, I wouldn't make it mohair. To me, that's a fun evening suit. For something more versatile, I would probably do a grey or navy flannel suit. In the evening, you can wear it with a turtleneck to avoid looking too business-y. But during the daytime and for "serious" occasions such as business presentations, weddings, or job interviews, you can also wear it with a white shirt and dark tie.


View attachment 1715324 View attachment 1715326


A Grey Tweed with Charcoal Trousers

I recently met up with a friend who wore a grey tweed sport coat with black jeans, a white shirt, and Jacques Marie Mage glasses. I thought he looked really good and later ordered a length of the same fabric. The tweed is from Fox Brothers, and while it's annoyingly expensive, it has a really nice dark tone and low contrast that I think makes for a sophisticated-looking sport coat.

You can wear this with black jeans, as my friend did. Or wear it with charcoal trousers and black tassel loafers. Can be paired with a striped shirt and tie, as you see above. Or a turtleneck.

Who makes good lighter weight turtlenecks for this sort of look? I’ve been eyeing up these merino ones from John Smedley for a similar holiday party/dinner date night look under a sport coat or suit.

https://www.mrporter.com/en-us/mens/product/john-smedley/clothing/rollnecks/cherwell-merino-wool-rollneck-sweater/1473020371491929

 

[dieworkwear]

Who makes good lighter weight turtlenecks for this sort of look? I’ve been eyeing up these merino ones from John Smedley for a similar holiday party/dinner date night look under a sport coat or suit.

https://www.mrporter.com/en-us/mens/product/john-smedley/clothing/rollnecks/cherwell-merino-wool-rollneck-sweater/1473020371491929

Mine are from Ballytyne and Drake's, but they're no longer made. I imagine John Smedley would be good, however. I have a cardigan from them that I bought in the late 1990s and it has kept up remarkably well.

 

[deanandrewj]

Drake’s has some wool/cashmere blend turtlenecks this season, but I’m wondering if they might be too warm.

Grey Wool Cashmere Lightweight Roll Neck Jumper

70% Virgin Wool 30% Cashmere. Made in Italy.

www.drakes.com

 

[BomTrady]

I've never thought of opera pumps as being a seasonal shoe, only as a formal evening shoe. I think they'd look appropriate any time you're wearing black tie, regardless of the season. Most men wear black tie during the winter months (e.g. New Year's Eve parties, holiday parties, and the very rare ball).

When you look through those Golden Age photos of men wearing black tie, many of them wore their opera pumps during the wintertime because that was when balls and big parties were held. A photo of Oscar de la Renta and Françoise de Langlade exiting a Truman Capote's famous ball in November 1966:


View attachment 1715387

Thank you; makes total sense!

 

[Octobab]

@dieworkwear Apropos to nothing at all in this discussion thread, do you think it's appropriate to wear opera pumps at a winter formal evening occasion? The vamp is pretty high, but still seems like a summer type shoe to me. Thanks in advance! I'd be curious to hear anyone else's opinion too.

Assuming you're wearing them in a place with real winter, if you can stride out into snow in shoes that open, you're a braver man than most lol. Tbh I think there'd be something cool in that, but I imagine most people will have a reaction closer to morbid curiosity (the thought of some slushy January curb... Jesus)

 

[BomTrady]

Assuming you're wearing them in a place with real winter, if you can stride out into snow in shoes that open, you're a braver man than most lol. Tbh I think there'd be something cool in that, but I imagine most people will have a reaction closer to morbid curiosity (the thought of some slushy January curb... Jesus)

'Vey good point, but we'll be jumping out a car going directly into the place and the same out. I am sure the walk-way is carpeted and would be cleared of snow, if any. Tbh, no "proper" evening shoe is really made with soles designed to withstand snow. I do own a pair of evening oxfords that I normally wear in the winter - my wife brought the wrong shoes - and they are pretty dainty themselves, now that I think about it. She brought the lightweight tux too (with the defense that they all look the same to her), but I figure I can totally get away with that. The shoes....different story to me. 'Causing me to pause.

 

[K. Nights]

charcoal/dark grey corduroy suit. you could wear the jacket alone even.

I've actually been pretty interested in the idea of a corduroy suit ever since I saw this image from Anglo-Italian. Not Wes Anderson-y at all.

How about something like this?

Spier & Mackay

Spier & Mackay

www.spierandmackay.com

Also +1 to a fun suit. Here is an olive linen one below

I'm also a big fan of slub fabrics

Some ideas, including things you may have seen me mention elsewhere:

Many of the events you mentioned sound like evening activities, and I sort of think that afternoon and evening outfits should be distinct (somewhat). So with that in mind.

View attachment 1715293 View attachment 1715292


A Mohair Suit

Mohair has a slight sheen that I think looks really nice at night. Some guys wear it during the daytime, but I think the sheen is less appealing when the sun's out. In the evening, however, it reflects light in this really nice way.

Most mohair fabrics are a mohair-wool blend because mohair is too brittle on its own. So the more mohair content, the more sheen. I like 40% mohair to 60% wool -- anything above 50% and you're getting into Rat Pack territory. Does well in evening colors such as grey, navy, and even olive. I often wear a mohair suit to get dinner: grey-olive mohair suit with a charcoal turtleneck or long-sleeved polo, black tassel loafers, and typically no pocket square. If you want to dress it up, you can do a white shirt with a black knit tie.

View attachment 1715307 View attachment 1715323


A Dark Flannel Suit

The versatile option. If you only have one suit, I wouldn't make it mohair. To me, that's a fun evening suit. For something more versatile, I would probably do a grey or navy flannel suit. In the evening, you can wear it with a turtleneck to avoid looking too business-y. But during the daytime and for "serious" occasions such as business presentations, weddings, or job interviews, you can also wear it with a white shirt and dark tie.


View attachment 1715324 View attachment 1715326


A Grey Tweed with Charcoal Trousers

I recently met up with a friend who wore a grey tweed sport coat with black jeans, a white shirt, and Jacques Marie Mage glasses. I thought he looked really good and later ordered a length of the same fabric. The tweed is from Fox Brothers, and while it's annoyingly expensive, it has a really nice dark tone and low contrast that I think makes for a sophisticated-looking sport coat.

You can wear this with black jeans, as my friend did. Or wear it with charcoal trousers and black tassel loafers. Can be paired with a striped shirt and tie, as you see above. Or a turtleneck.

Nice suggestions from both of you. I definitely don't need it to be versatile since I have a couple of serious suits for job interviews, weddings and such. I really like the idea of a mohair suit, but a darker, patterned sport coat would also be good and probably easier to wear (for me). Hmm.

How about a black velvet jacket? It certainly won't look like "officewear". (Alan Flusser used to recommend a chocolate velvet for maximum day/evening flexibility). Having owned a couple, I found it far more versatile than most might think. Of course you can wear it with grey flannels for a fancy evening but I most often wore it for "fun" to dinner or cocktail parties or even lunch in the city with a white shirt and jeans.

I had not considered velvet, but I could see that being a fun option, actually.


Thanks for the opinions, all! I'll have to give this some thought.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

I've actually been pretty interested in the idea of a corduroy suit ever since I saw this image from Anglo-Italian. Not Wes Anderson-y at all.
View attachment 1715451


Nice suggestions from both of you. I definitely don't need it to be versatile since I have a couple of serious suits for job interviews, weddings and such. I really like the idea of a mohair suit, but a darker, patterned sport coat would also be good and probably easier to wear (for me). Hmm.


I had not considered velvet, but I could see that being a fun option, actually.


Thanks for the opinions, all! I'll have to give this some thought.

I like a grey herringbone tweed jacket for this sort of thing.

I have this one in my personal wardrobe, except it doesn't have the third patch or the flaps. Pair it with a white ocbd, a black knit or grenadine, charcoal flannels, and black tassel loafers or brown suede ptbs (I have a pair from Alden (bluchers not derbies)) that has nice curves that vibe really well with this sort of look) or chukkas. You can also wear a jacket like this in a hundred other ways during the daytime and at night.

I have always been romanced by the idea of a black corduroy suit, but 1) it doesn't seem versatile, and 2) I always think cords and dress shoes (aside from maybe loafers) don't do well together. Something about the floppiness of the corduroy where it meets the shoe.

Whatever you get, get something you can wear with a black tie or turtleneck. Black is a great color for the night.

 

[dieworkwear]

Corduroy suits and tweed sport coats with flapped patched pockets strike me as very casual, and would be good for an evening event if you're headed to a pub. If you're going to an upscale restaurant, you may want something a little more elegant and "citified," for lack of a better term.

I would keep the environment and occasion in mind if you're choosing something. My mohair suit suggestion isn't right if you're headed to a pub. But it may be good for a restaurant where you're having an anniversary dinner.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

Corduroy suits and tweed sport coats with flapped patched pockets strike me as very casual, and would be good for an evening event if you're headed to a pub. If you're going to an upscale restaurant, you may want something a little more elegant and "citified," for lack of a better term.

I would keep the environment and occasion in mind if you're choosing something. My mohair suit suggestion isn't right if you're headed to a pub. But it may be good for a restaurant where you're having an anniversary dinner.

Not the greatest image and bad collar gap, but this looks fine to me...

Or this...

 

[dieworkwear]

Not the greatest image and bad collar gap, but this looks fine to me...

View attachment 1715472
Or this...
View attachment 1715475

It's not so much the grey tweed, but the presence of flapped patched pockets. Granted, no one in public is going to know either way. But if you're headed to a nice restaurant, I would sooner wear Jason's outfit on the bottom (a little more urbane) than Dustin Hoffman's outfit in The Graduate (a little too casual).

 

[circumspice]

Corduroy suits and tweed sport coats with flapped patched pockets strike me as very casual, and would be good for an evening event if you're headed to a pub. If you're going to an upscale restaurant, you may want something a little more elegant and "citified," for lack of a better term.

I would keep the environment and occasion in mind if you're choosing something. My mohair suit suggestion isn't right if you're headed to a pub. But it may be good for a restaurant where you're having an anniversary dinner.

A few years ago The Armoury did a dark blackwatch sport coat in a Lanificio di Pray fabric I picked up - I think this somewhat splits the difference for your use cases, albeit probably still being a bit much for a pub.