The Official Dieworkwear Appreciation Thread

[jaaz16]

Thanks everyone.

They look pretty neutral in isolation until I placed something cooler next to them, and then they look subtly warmer by comparison. Like if you placed all the grays along a continuum these would be close to the center but on the warmer side. They look especially good with warm colored knits, let's put it that way.

This is all a matter of opinion of course, and I like the first reply's opinion. But to speak to your specific question about the trousers you're working with, I like them. The texture really looks good, and I don't mind that at all. I agree with the general sentiment of mid to light gray trousers, though. Yours fall into that range for me. (love the split toes, btw)

Löf & Tung, DWW recommended.

 

[slows2k]

Simon dropped the first look at this year's balmacaan and the fabric looks fantastic:

The Donegal Overcoat

The Donegal Overcoat is a heritage piece of outerwear, born out of the need for a versatile coat that could be worn with jeans for a walk, or tailoring to the office. Says Simon: "Donegal tweed is so pleasing in the texture it creates, yet subtle. There’s slubbiness in there and colour...

shop.permanentstyle.com

I think the chunky herringbone works well in this slouchy-cut style coat.

 

[UrbanComposition]

Not to take sales away from Simon, as I realize that sort of fabric (scale, nubbiness, etc) is not common nowadays, but Pendleton made raglan balmacaans in similar cloth back in the day. They aren’t terribly common, but I bought mine off of eBay for about $100.

Still, Simon’s version is quite nice.

 

[slows2k]

but Pendleton made raglan balmacaans in similar cloth back in the day. They aren’t terribly common, but I bought mine off of eBay for about $100.

A quick look at eBay shows that Pendleton used to make a TON of cool stuff. I feel like they don't really do that much interesting outerwear anymore. Especially not long outerwear.

Ill keep my eyes open for one like yours though; I think you've posted pics before somewhere and its pretty awesome. If you ever wanna sell it, let me know; I think we're the same size.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Simon dropped the first look at this year's balmacaan and the fabric looks fantastic:
View attachment 1684209

The Donegal Overcoat

The Donegal Overcoat is a heritage piece of outerwear, born out of the need for a versatile coat that could be worn with jeans for a walk, or tailoring to the office. Says Simon: "Donegal tweed is so pleasing in the texture it creates, yet subtle. There’s slubbiness in there and colour...

shop.permanentstyle.com

I think the chunky herringbone works well in this slouchy-cut style coat.

The sleeve cut looks different to my eye. The front seam looks much closer to the chest than I've usually seen it.

I wonder if it's just because the body looks to be a slimmer cut than I've usually seen on a Balmacaan.

Instantly reminded me of member Dannefalk's coat that I saw a couple years ago.

Here is the finished result of my raglan coat made by A.W Bauer here in Stockholm. The cloth is Fox natural slate twill 27/28 oz. This was my first wear and the cloth is quite sturdy. I'll wear it more to see if there are any tweaks needed. Other clothing featured is BnTailor cavalry twill trousers, Rubato shirt and sweater. Photos: Milad Abedi. Angry face: myself.

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Have a great weekend!

 

[hoodog]

Simon dropped the first look at this year's balmacaan and the fabric looks fantastic:
View attachment 1684209

The Donegal Overcoat

The Donegal Overcoat is a heritage piece of outerwear, born out of the need for a versatile coat that could be worn with jeans for a walk, or tailoring to the office. Says Simon: "Donegal tweed is so pleasing in the texture it creates, yet subtle. There’s slubbiness in there and colour...

shop.permanentstyle.com

I think the chunky herringbone works well in this slouchy-cut style coat.

Thanks! This miiiight be what I've been looking for (I returned the Acne I posted a few pages back). Looks like it would work well with SW&D fits as well imo. Just hoping it is not cut too slim...

 

[Dadacantona]

I think the PS balmacaan looks a bit slim and the measurements bear that out.

There was some chat about the Drake’s balmacaan a few pages back and, having tried it, I’m not a fan. The patch pockets are strangely three dimensional, as was suggested, and the cut didn’t work for me. It’s roomy, but that room is all at the back, so it actually sits quite closely and looks relatively trim from the front. I don’t have the technical knowledge to explain this but suffice to say it doesn’t feel like a roomy coat.

 

[SimonC]

Talking of the PS Bal, there are a pair - one in each colour, up on Marrkt today:

PS Long Wool Coat

The Single Breasted (SB) Wool Overcoat from Private White V.C. in collaboration with Simon Crompton aka Permanent Style is a contemporary take on an otherwise traditional style. Crafted from 100% wool sourced locally in Lancashire, this jacket is ideally worn over a suit. 100% WoolMade in England

www.marrkt.com

PS Herringbone Wool Coat

The Single Breasted (SB) Wool Overcoat from Private White V.C. in collaboration with Simon Crompton aka Permanent Style is a contemporary take on an otherwise traditional style. Crafted from 100% wool sourced locally in Lancashire, this jacket is ideally worn over a suit. 100% WoolMade in England

www.marrkt.com

 

[StaticProgression]

Went back and saw the discussion around this post when the thread came out - https://putthison.com/how-to-get-a-good-pair-of-cowboy-boots/

Being from a state where western wear is super normal, it was funny to read this from the perspective of someone not from a place where it's normal, so thanks for that, @dieworkwear . The writing was superb as usual, just more like when you read an article on a cultural matter you see as normal from your place of origin. Fascinating.

I will say, Ropers rock, Tecovas is awesome for what it is, and I thought the suggestion list was solid. With that being said, did you come across any denim or pants you liked that worked with your boots?

I did come across these from Freenote, and they look near perfect https://freenotecloth.com/collections/wilkes-denim/products/wilkes-broken-twill

One thing I will note, for anyone trying to make the leap into boots and doesn't know where to start, is to get Tecovas, and then just get some Wrangler Cowboy Cut Slim Fit Jeans. If you wanna go full-on Texan, get the white washed. Trust me. They are absolute tanks of jeans, a gloriously high rise, and have really interesting utility features, such as the seams being flipped from normal jeans - the overlap seam is on the outside of your thigh, not inside the crotch, so as to keep from chafing when you're in the saddle. They're like $40, you will NOT break them, if you need just a cheaper knockaround jean. Be careful, you're going to want to go chop some logs as soon as you slide them on, it's like that feeling you get when putting on some heavy boots. (see photo for reference to my point)

But curious as to whether you or others have discovered anything else you like, as you explore the awesome world of western wear. Enjoy your boots!

 

[mossrockss]

A follow-up flannel question for you all (thanks again for the previous insights). Tl;dr version: Does the temperature of gray flannel matter for pairing with navy--i.e., can a warmer gray flannel pair with a navy sport coat and/or knits?

One of Derek's older articles helpfully shows the value of pairing temperatures (with some exceptions, such as accessories—“navy ties go with everything”). But I wasn’t entirely sure how that works for the classic (basic?) navy coat-gray trousers workhorse combination.

Now on to the me-specific question: I'm considering some mid-gray flannel trousers that are on the warmer side. Putting them up against navy doesn’t give me the same reaction I had to the photo of Simon in Derek’s article (cool gray trousers and warm tan coat), but I wasn’t sure if I was missing some of the subtleties.

Spoiler: What I’m working with

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Spoiler: Bonus: Mossrocks inspo

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Middle pic with the trousers that are pleated are brown actually. Other two pics are the VBC flannel Spier & Mackay uses.

IIRC, Jake at Anglo-Italian said English grays are warmer while Italian grays are cooler.

I think either works well with navy.

And in response to @Gus, it's funny because I almost only wear the darker flannels anymore—charcoal and mid-dark gray.

Also, as @TheShetlandSweater mentioned, taupe or 'fawn' is a great option. NMWA's fawn flannel Rota's being the quintessential classic.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

A follow-up flannel question for you all (thanks again for the previous insights). Tl;dr version: Does the temperature of gray flannel matter for pairing with navy--i.e., can a warmer gray flannel pair with a navy sport coat and/or knits?

One of Derek's older articles helpfully shows the value of pairing temperatures (with some exceptions, such as accessories—“navy ties go with everything”). But I wasn’t entirely sure how that works for the classic (basic?) navy coat-gray trousers workhorse combination.

Now on to the me-specific question: I'm considering some mid-gray flannel trousers that are on the warmer side. Putting them up against navy doesn’t give me the same reaction I had to the photo of Simon in Derek’s article (cool gray trousers and warm tan coat), but I wasn’t sure if I was missing some of the subtleties.

Spoiler: What I’m working with

View attachment 1683883
View attachment 1683884
View attachment 1683885
View attachment 1683886

Spoiler: Bonus: Mossrocks inspo

View attachment 1683889
View attachment 1683890
View attachment 1683891

Warmer grey is fine with navy, arguably even preferable. The diagnosis in the PTO article is, quite frankly, wrong. A number of color concepts are confused. I mention this sort of thing regularly, but no one seems to care so I don't feel like doing an in-depth explanation here. The main concepts that are relevant here are hue (color temperature refers to certain feature of hue), saturation (also called intensity), and foreground and background colors (pants should be more background than jacket). Value is also important in general, but that isn't what you are asking about.

Brown is, by definition, a warmer color (there can be warmer and cooler browns, but this warm and cool is relative). Below is a picture of brown pants with a jacket that is navy-adjacent. This looks good to me.

Or consider this spectrum of flannels from Ben Silver.

The top three are all warmer greys. I think all of these would do well with navy. Maybe not the top one (the value difference would be jarring to my eye). I think the other two, however, are the best of this lot to mix with navy. Since these greys are warmer, they are slightly brownish. Brown and and navy are an ideal pairing because they are complements (they make black when mixed). (To be clear, when you are dealing with complements, you need to be very sensitive to saturation/intensity--a saturated blue with a saturated orange (browns are pretty much just messy oranges) can be jarring.) This is why a navy suit with dark brown shoes is such a good combo--the two are complements. This is also why navy is such a good color for jackets and blue is such a great color for shirts--these colors are complements of human skin tone which is always in the brown/orange family regardless of ethnicity.

 

[hpreston]

Warmer grey is fine with navy, arguably even preferable. The diagnosis in the PTO article is, quite frankly, wrong. A number of color concepts are confused. I mention this sort of thing regularly, but no one seems to care so I don't feel like doing an in-depth explanation here. The main concepts that are relevant here are hue (color temperature refers to certain feature of hue), saturation (also called intensity), and foreground and background colors (pants should be more background than jacket). Value is also important in general, but that isn't what you are asking about.

Brown is, by definition, a warmer color (there can be warmer and cooler browns, but this warm and cool is relative). Below is a picture of brown pants with a jacket that is navy-adjacent. This looks good to me.
View attachment 1684760
Or consider this spectrum of flannels from Ben Silver.
View attachment 1684763
The top three are all warmer greys. I think all of these would do well with navy. Maybe not the top one (the value difference would be jarring to my eye). I think the other two, however, are the best of this lot to mix with navy. Since these greys are warmer, they are slightly brownish. Brown and and navy are an ideal pairing because they are complements (they make black when mixed). (To be clear, when you are dealing with complements, you need to be very sensitive to saturation/intensity--a saturated blue with a saturated orange (browns are pretty much just messy oranges) can be jarring.) This is why a navy suit with dark brown shoes is such a good combo--the two are complements. This is also why navy is such a good color for jackets and blue is such a great color for shirts--these colors are complements of human skin tone which is always in the brown/orange family regardless of ethnicity.

I really appreciate your thoughts,

Then got distracted, and all I could think was, I need all of these in my closet

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

I really appreciate your thoughts,

Then got distracted, and all I could think was, I need all of these in my closet
View attachment 1684830

For a traditional retailer that is the opposite of modern, Ben Silver does some of the best product photography.

 

[acapaca]

I mention this sort of thing regularly, but no one seems to care so I don't feel like doing an in-depth explanation here.

I for one am interested in learning more. Are there any long-form resources you would recommend or could point me to?

(To be clear, when you are dealing with complements, you need to be very sensitive to saturation/intensity--a saturated blue with a saturated orange (browns are pretty much just messy oranges) can be jarring.)

When you say this, do you mean just in clothing, or in general? I've always thought the blue/orange color combination worked strikingly well for team logos/uniforms and is surprisingly underused (in that arena). But I don't know if the 'rules' on saturation/intensity would be different in that case.

 

[dieworkwear]

I will say, Ropers rock, Tecovas is awesome for what it is, and I thought the suggestion list was solid. With that being said, did you come across any denim or pants you liked that worked with your boots?

I've been wearing RRL jeans a lot. Mine are a slim-straight model from a few years ago. I also like Wrangler's Wranchers, which are a flared bootcut "jean." Jean is in quotations because the pants are actually made from pure polyester. But I dig them.

Levi's has a bootcut model called the 517. I don't have any experience with them, but I've seen some cool outfits with them online.