The Official Dieworkwear Appreciation Thread

[Keith Taylor]

I've never found a linen pant in any color I liked, I think the fabric just might not be for me when it comes to pants. I do love a good linen shirt though

When it comes to linen my feeling is that its lightweight nature makes correct fit even more important than usual, so it’s a real pain ********** to buy when, like me, your only shopping options are online. I never found a green pair I like, but just last week I got a great pair of Billy Reid in oatmeal that fit perfectly, so I’m good for the summer

 

[smittycl]

When it comes to linen my feeling is that its lightweight nature makes correct fit even more important than usual, so it’s a real pain ********** to buy when, like me, your only shopping options are online. I never found a green pair I like, but just last week I got a great pair of Billy Reid in oatmeal that fit perfectly, so I’m good for the summer

I wear linen all summer. Best fabric around for sticky climates. Paul Stuart makes excellent linen shirts and pants. Very soft linen. Zegna makes some excellent linen CM wear as well.

Although for tailoring, high-twist, open weave wool is hard to beat.

 

[polyfusion]

while i understand the idea of the ideal fit, it's really what your personal preference is and what makes you most comfortable. you can have it fit closer to the body for "cleaner looks" or get something more oversized for "relaxed looks." i have both styles and i think they work best with different outfits. but i'd think as long as nobody can see the muscle definition in your arms or chest or your stomach poking out anything beyond that will look good as long as you like it.

it seems based on your analysis you veer more towards contemporary stuff versus the repo traditional. that's totally cool and as long as what you ultimately decide on is comfortable on you and congruent with the rest of your outfit, you're golden.

I agree with every word of this.

Interestingly for me , I tried the buzz Rickson on with a pair of higher waisted drakes cords and the whole thing came together . I had been wearing it with my 3sixteen SL100x , and wasn’t as taken, but once I paired it with something more high rise, this sweater really came into its own.

 

[upsett1_spaghett1]

When it comes to linen my feeling is that its lightweight nature makes correct fit even more important than usual, so it’s a real pain ********** to buy when, like me, your only shopping options are online. I never found a green pair I like, but just last week I got a great pair of Billy Reid in oatmeal that fit perfectly, so I’m good for the summer

I think I might try the custom program from Spier & McKay on some linen trousers this summer. Those, or Yeossal

 

[upsett1_spaghett1]

I agree with every word of this.

Interestingly for me , I tried the buzz Rickson on with a pair of higher waisted drakes cords and the whole thing came together . I had been wearing it with my 3sixteen SL100x , and wasn’t as taken, but once I paired it with something more high rise, this sweater really came into its own.

Sometimes you really just gotta switch up the pants

 

[garigo]

What's everyone's take on raw denim? I read Simon's article on PS today, and the comments from people there suggest that raw (as opposed to washed denim) is the only way to go.

 

[dieworkwear]

What's everyone's take on raw denim? I read Simon's article on PS today, and the comments from people there suggest that raw (as opposed to washed denim) is the only way to go.

I wear both, but mostly wear raw. I don't think there's anything necessarily wrong with washed denim and I like some in that lighter blue color. But it's really satisfying to break in a pair of jeans and develop your own fades.

Had this convo in another thread, but I think raw denim jeans are one of the most satisfying things to wear. Love the look of natural fades and how an old pair of jeans feel on you.

 

[Numbernine]

Unless you do what I did, bring 3 pairs to perfection and lose 30 lbs because of covid precautions.

 

[Knurt]

Unless you do what I did, bring 3 pairs to perfection and lose 30 lbs because of covid precautions.

Even if seemingly incompatible, that is a great combination! Two accomplishments. You can build a future on those. (Bittersweet to have to change wardrobe, but ultimately great.)

 

[gardenvariety]

What's everyone's take on raw denim? I read Simon's article on PS today, and the comments from people there suggest that raw (as opposed to washed denim) is the only way to go.

I like the idea of raw denim, and the look of a great faded pair on someone else (especially in the wild), but personally prefer the reality of washed denim. I have always had difficulty finding a fit I like with raws, and I find the crunchy texture uncomfortable on the skin.

When I wore raw denim I used to think about my jeans all the time -- "are they fading yet?!" or "Ahh the back of my knees hurt, hope the honeycombs look sick". At this point I forget I'm even wearing my comfortable washed jeans. It just makes life easier.

Although talking about this kinda makes me want raws again

 

[Salad]

For me, the struggle is finding certain brands to see and try on in person. For example, I'm looking at some TCB 50s and it looks like I can only get them shipped from Japan. Comparing measurements is different than actually being able to try them on. Then there's the whole shrinkage thing and then calculating how much the waist band will stretch with wear. It's great when things work out but when they don't, you end up with a collection of expensive jeans in a closet.
While we're on the subject of raw denim, what's going on with LVC? I find it surprising that It's hard to find '47s, 37's or even jackets. I should have copped a Type 1 years ago. Big regret. I know Cone is gone but I wish Levis would take Kaihara denim and cut and sew them here in the States.

 

[polyfusion]

I like my raw broken in denim , but often feel I’m the only one who prefers it new, deep indigo, without fades. It looks much smarter to my eyes. I remember in my pre caring about clothes days the first time I discovered people actually LIKED it faded and was pretty surprised.
I think fundamentally I think I’m a scruffy person. My hair, face and appearance is just naturally a bit unkempt from genetics and there’s nothing I can do about it and so i prefer the contrast of clothes that are a bit cleaner - thicker fabrics, deeper colours , tidier lines . I think more broken in things look better on people who are naturally a bit more together, with better hair than me ... and tidier fabrics look a bit better on people who are a bit scruffier like me. It’s a theory I’m not sure I’ve explained, but in my head makes sense.

 

[dieworkwear]

I think if you mostly want dark jeans, you don't have to go raw. Levi's mainline has dark wash jeans that technically aren't raw, but are just dark and not predistressed. But if you like the look of heavily broken-in, workwear-styled denim, then raw is nice because natural fades often look better than artificial ones (although, I'm not philosophically against pre-distressing).

The most common complaint I've read about raw denim is that the material is stiff, heavy, and sometimes scratchy at first. It also crocks in the beginning and can require some particular washing techniques. But I think the stuff looks really good if you're into certain kinds of casualwear. There's also something psychologically satisfying about having a pair of jeans you've broken in. They feel much more personal.

If someone is OK with wearing vintage denim, 1980s and '90s era 501s can also be kind of cool (find the MiUSA ones). They often have a broken-in look and a cut that I think is very popular right now: just a little looser than the sort of slim-tapered APC-style fit that lots of people wore 10 years ago. Style is a little more comfortable and the silhouette suits the more classic kind of jackets people wear nowadays.

 

[Numbernine]

I wish I had a dollar for every pair of 501s or 517s I've worn from shrink to fit (raw) to rags in my lifetime. Actually I can remember as a kid 501s, the only jeans levies made at that time iirc, going on sale for exactly that $1 a pair.

 

[UrbanComposition]

I wish I had a dollar for every pair of 501s or 517s I've worn from shrink to fit (raw) to rags in my lifetime. Actually I can remember as a kid 501s, the only jeans levies made at that time iirc, going on sale for exactly that $1 a pair.

You remind me of some of the journeymen that trained me as an apprentice (I say this with the upmost respect). Would be great to sit at a bar and share stories one of these days.

I haven’t had a pair of jeans last more than three years on the job before I have to retire them, at which point they look perfectly broken-in, right before they disintegrate.