The Official Dieworkwear Appreciation Thread

[dieworkwear]

@dieworkwear Are you looking at any pajamas this winter? What in your experience is good fabric or weight to wear without any undershirt for warmth?

I have some made through Ascot Chang. If you have a custom shirtmaker, they can usually make pajamas for you out of shirt fabric.

I source the shirt fabric on my own. Pre-COVID times, I used to go to Britex in San Francisco and poke around for fabrics that I thought would make for good pajamas. Merchant & Mills in the UK also sells really interesting fabrics. You can purchase swatches for pretty cheap. Etsy can also be a good source.

Online Store

merchantandmills.com

If you buy from Merchant & Mills, their site will say what kind of garments the fabric is well suited for. Unfortunately, since I buy all my fabrics from jobbers, I don't know their exact weight. I have some PJs in brushed cotton, linen, and some Tencel-linen blends. Years ago, Merchant & Mills sold a really nice Tencel-linen blend that had a ton of body and came in nice dusty colors. Unfortunately sold out.

I tried Sleepy Jones PJs in the past but found them too slim. I find that PJs have to be cut much fuller than what you'd get in a shirt, as you're going to be tossing around. Not even fuller than a slim-fit shirt, but much fuller than a traditional fit. Derek Rose also makes some nice ones, although they have different lines of varying quality, I believe.

Custom PJs sound ridiculous, but they're not that much more than high-end RTW (e.g. Derek Rose) and you can get them made in slightly more interesting materials than the pure cottons you see everywhere.

 

[gettoasty]

I have some made through Ascot Chang. If you have a custom shirtmaker, they can usually make pajamas for you out of shirt fabric.

I source the shirt fabric on my own. Pre-COVID times, I used to go to Britex in San Francisco and poke around for fabrics that I thought would make for good pajamas. Merchant & Mills in the UK also sells really interesting fabrics. You can purchase swatches for pretty cheap. Etsy can also be a good source.

Online Store

merchantandmills.com

If you buy from Merchant & Mills, their site will say what kind of garments the fabric is well suited for. Unfortunately, since I buy all my fabrics from jobbers, I don't know their exact weight. I have some PJs in brushed cotton, linen, and some Tencel-linen blends. Years ago, Merchant & Mills sold a really nice Tencel-linen blend that had a ton of body and came in nice dusty colors. Unfortunately sold out.

I tried Sleepy Jones PJs in the past but found them too slim. I find that PJs have to be cut much fuller than what you'd get in a shirt, as you're going to be tossing around. Not even fuller than a slim-fit shirt, but much fuller than a traditional fit. Derek Rose also makes some nice ones, although they have different lines of varying quality, I believe.

Custom PJs sound ridiculous, but they're not that much more than high-end RTW (e.g. Derek Rose) and you can get them made in slightly more interesting materials than the pure cottons you see everywhere.

I did read your old posts about custom PJs, that's cool. I bookmarked a few of the links like Merchant Fox. Not sure if I'd ever get something made for me, looking for upgrades at this point. Your dressing gown and reading about the weight and warmth really made me rethink my decision to buy the Wings & Horns cabin fleece robe. Probably not this season but I'll keep an eye out for Merchant Fox and probably get the sleeves altered if needed. I'll just revisit your old post now to see what OTR are available right now. Thanks!

Edit:
The link now does not work for me for some reason, I was reading it a few weeks ago, https://dieworkwear.com/2017/12/14/mornings-are-better-with-pajamas/

 

[bhammond]

I have some made through Ascot Chang.

Well, of course you do.

 

[gardenvariety]

One of the better things (for me) to come out of COVID is the DJ sets being streamed on Twitch. Yes, it's not the same as seeing people live, but I have been able to see a lot of DJ's who aren't local and see some fo my favorite DJ's way more often than I would in real life. Producers have been doing live beat creation or review of beats etc.

Any good ones you'd recommend?

 

[Dadacantona]

Posting this here as I’m not sure where else to post it and I know Derek has written on the topic before, obviously.

Have decided I’d like a polo coat in camel but they’re difficult to find here in England. The Rake stock this by Barbanera (anyone have any experience with them?) which, although not exactly a polo coat, is a fairly decent approximation I reckon. Shame it doesn’t have turnback cuffs, which I’m quite fond of.

The modern voice of classic elegance

This is Barbanera's genius take on the double-breasted military coat. Perfect as the top layer over blazers, suits, shirts and sweaters, the Harlock is the real “gentleman-pirate” coat. Entirely made in Italy with wool fabric, featuring “navy inspir

therake.com

Anyone able to offer any advice or recommendations?

 

[thatboyo]

OConnells has one in camel hair instead of wool and with turn back cuffs.

O'Connell's Camelhair Polo Coat

O'Connell's Mens, O'Connell's Camelhair Polo Coat: O'Connell's Camelhair Polo Coat

oconnellsclothing.com

 

[Viral]

you gents know of any places who can tailor/alter knitwear?

I have a couple cashmere sweaters to which I'd like to shorten the sleeves and maybe nip the excess fabric at the waist

Any info is appreciated!

 

[dieworkwear]

Posting this here as I’m not sure where else to post it and I know Derek has written on the topic before, obviously.

Have decided I’d like a polo coat in camel but they’re difficult to find here in England. The Rake stock this by Barbanera (anyone have any experience with them?) which, although not exactly a polo coat, is a fairly decent approximation I reckon. Shame it doesn’t have turnback cuffs, which I’m quite fond of.

The modern voice of classic elegance

This is Barbanera's genius take on the double-breasted military coat. Perfect as the top layer over blazers, suits, shirts and sweaters, the Harlock is the real “gentleman-pirate” coat. Entirely made in Italy with wool fabric, featuring “navy inspir

therake.com

Anyone able to offer any advice or recommendations?

No experience with that specific coat, but I have a shirt and a suede trucker jacket from Barbanera, which I really like. On those garments, the pieces are cut with very high armholes and slim sleeves. I don't know if they used a similar pattern for the coat. The shirt and jacket would be hard to wear if you have muscular arms.

Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers often have polo coats. As do trad shops, such as O'Connell's mentioned above. Try J. Press and The Andover Shop.

you gents know of any places who can tailor/alter knitwear?

I have a couple of cashmere sweaters to which I'd like to shorten the sleeves and maybe nip the excess fabric at the waist

Any info is appreciated!

If you don't mind a seam, then some local tailors may have machines that can alter the sweater for you. That will result in a bumpy seam on the inside of the garment. If you're located in The Bay Area, I can look up the name of the knitwear alterations place I use (I forget the name at the moment but they're located near one of the FedExs in downtown San Francisco).

If you want a cleaner finish, then the garment will have to be linked point-by-point. Try the Knitwear Doctor. They do good work.

Knit Alterations | Knitwear Doctor

We shorten knits and do alteration of knits by unraveling and refinishing. This process allows us to complete the work leaving the garment with the same exact finishing it had before any knit alterations have been made. We don’t cut and overlock (that’s what tailors do) creating bulk in the...

www.knitweardoctor.com

Some knits are hard to alter, such as those made with a very fine gauge or patterns.

 

[Viral]

No experience with that specific coat, but I have a shirt and a suede trucker jacket from Barbanera, which I really like. On those garments, the pieces are cut with very high armholes and slim sleeves. I don't know if they used a similar pattern for the coat. The shirt and jacket would be hard to wear if you have muscular arms.

Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers often have polo coats. As do trad shops, such as O'Connell's mentioned above. Try J. Press and The Andover Shop.




If you don't mind a seam, then some local tailors may have machines that can alter the sweater for you. That will result in a bumpy seam on the inside of the garment. If you're located in The Bay Area, I can look up the name of the knitwear alterations place I use (I forget the name at the moment but they're located near one of the FedExs in downtown San Francisco).

If you want a cleaner finish, then the garment will have to be linked point-by-point. Try the Knitwear Doctor. They do good work.

Knit Alterations | Knitwear Doctor

We shorten knits and do alteration of knits by unraveling and refinishing. This process allows us to complete the work leaving the garment with the same exact finishing it had before any knit alterations have been made. We don’t cut and overlock (that’s what tailors do) creating bulk in the...

www.knitweardoctor.com

Some knits are hard to alter, such as those made with a very fine gauge or patterns.

Thanks for the deets bro.....will do some more research before I proceed

 

[Dadacantona]

No experience with that specific coat, but I have a shirt and a suede trucker jacket from Barbanera, which I really like. On those garments, the pieces are cut with very high armholes and slim sleeves. I don't know if they used a similar pattern for the coat. The shirt and jacket would be hard to wear if you have muscular arms.

Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers often have polo coats. As do trad shops, such as O'Connell's mentioned above. Try J. Press and The Andover Shop.




If you don't mind a seam, then some local tailors may have machines that can alter the sweater for you. That will result in a bumpy seam on the inside of the garment. If you're located in The Bay Area, I can look up the name of the knitwear alterations place I use (I forget the name at the moment but they're located near one of the FedExs in downtown San Francisco).

If you want a cleaner finish, then the garment will have to be linked point-by-point. Try the Knitwear Doctor. They do good work.

Knit Alterations | Knitwear Doctor

We shorten knits and do alteration of knits by unraveling and refinishing. This process allows us to complete the work leaving the garment with the same exact finishing it had before any knit alterations have been made. We don’t cut and overlock (that’s what tailors do) creating bulk in the...

www.knitweardoctor.com

Some knits are hard to alter, such as those made with a very fine gauge or patterns.

Thanks, good to know.

RL don’t have a polo this season on their UK site, and I think shipping and duties would be prohibitive from any of the trad shops in the US. Probably worth taking a punt on the Barbanera, given the dearth of other options.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

Thanks, good to know.

RL don’t have a polo this season on their UK site, and I think shipping and duties would be prohibitive from any of the trad shops in the US. Probably worth taking a punt on the Barbanera, given the dearth of other options.

The Rake also has this one. Not familiar with the maker, but the design looks nice, and the fabric is camel hair.

I am pretty sure that Anglo-Italian can also do an MTO for their double breasted coats, which are done in a similar style to a polo coat. Not 100% sure on this.

 

[Dadacantona]

The Rake also has this one. Not familiar with the maker, but the design looks nice, and the fabric is camel hair.

I am pretty sure that Anglo-Italian can also do an MTO for their double breasted coats, which are done in a similar style to a polo coat. Not 100% sure on this.

The link is taking me to the homepage. Who’s the maker?

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

The link is taking me to the homepage. Who’s the maker?

It says Alexander Kraft Monte Carlo. I know some people have some strong reactions to him, but the coat looks pretty good.

 

[Sartorium]

you gents know of any places who can tailor/alter knitwear?

I have a couple cashmere sweaters to which I'd like to shorten the sleeves and maybe nip the excess fabric at the waist

Any info is appreciated!

If you don't need the sweaters until next season, I've had good experience with Sandy at https://www.knitalteration.com/

 

[jimney]

Does Mr. Porter keep adding stuff to their sale, or is this it? There is a pair of shoes I have my eye on, and some of the brand’s stuff is on sale but not this particular pair.