The Official Dieworkwear Appreciation Thread

[Despos]

So, 2" then.

My tailor slants my hems, but to date I have not done a cuffed hem. It sounds like I should just go straight with this one.

The differential would be ~ 0.5 cm, because one trouser leg falls longer than the other. Because one leg is longer than the other.

Very very few ask for 2” cuffs, but get them if you like them.
1.75” is pretty common.
It’s not unusual or being picky to have the legs made to different lengths. Actually pretty common.
Think you said you would give your tailor the inseam measure. This changes and varies with the height of the rise. May not be accurate but only off a little. Problem is making cotton trousers longer, leaves a line.

 

[Keith Taylor]

I suppose it depends on the silhouette and wearer, but I generally think slimming the leg opening beyond 7.75" is a bad idea on most guys. Some exceptions for very casual SWD fits. But on a tailored outfit, I think you want to be careful about going too narrow.

19cm leg opening for a CM type fit sounds like a bad idea to me.

Ah, gotcha. I had a minor panic for a moment that alteration of the leg opening was frowned upon in general

 

[d4nimal]

Years ago, I found a pair of mainline Giorgio Armani wool dress pants at NR for like $70, and the first thing I did was take them to their in-house tailor and have him considerably taper the legs and add a 1" cuff.

I was the worst.

 

[Despos]

Just shy of 6'3".

We have something in common. I’m just shy of 6’3” too
I’m 5’7”

 

[Despos]

Years ago, I found a pair of mainline Giorgio Armani wool dress pants at NR for like $70, and the first thing I did was take them to their in-house tailor and have him considerably taper the legs and add a 1" cuff.

I was the worst.

How did those cuffs turn out? Have seen 1.25” cuffs but not 1” cuffs. 1.25” cuffs were common in the 80’s and 90’s

 

[whorishconsumer]

Think you said you would give your tailor the inseam measure. This changes and varies with the height of the rise. May not be accurate but only off a little. Problem is making cotton trousers longer, leaves a line.

Huh. I had been assuming that the rise doesn't affect the inseam as the inseam is measured from the crotch, which is intended to be worn at the same place on your body regardless of the pant (understanding this isn't entirely adhered to in practice). Is that not the case?

 

[Despos]

Huh. I had been assuming that the rise doesn't affect the inseam as the inseam is measured from the crotch, which is intended to be worn at the same place on your body regardless of the pant (understanding this isn't entirely adhe to in practice). Is that not the case?

Higher rise has a shorter inseam. Lower rise requires a longer inseam. It doesn’t change much but there is a difference. 1” difference in rise could be .5” difference in length. Have clients who get plain front with a lower rise and pleated trousers with a higher rise. Have a different inseam measure for each style.

 

[d4nimal]

How did those cuffs turn out? Have seen 1.25” cuffs but not 1” cuffs. 1.25” cuffs were common in the 80’s and 90’s

They looked super strange in retrospect. Luckily that part was easy to remedy myself.

 

[Despos]

This is where things stand presently, although imagine the cuff wasn’t making the hem seem more fitted.

View attachment 1398053

I come from having worn skinny jeans, a preference I imparted to my tailoring. However I have been coming around to wider fits (acknowledging 21 cm isn't wide in classic menswear). I think I am content with leaving the width as is, especially as the extra capacity will allow for better airflow in the humid NYC heat.

Other related questions:

* How's the above break?
* I am getting these cuffed. 2" doesn't seem like enough cuff to me. Is 3" absolutely egregious?
* Is it a good idea/can one have a slant applied to a cuffed hem?
* My right leg is maybe 0.5 cm shorter than my left. Generally, is it worthwhile to try to nail down the differential and have a tailor account for this? I have had this done with maybe one pair of trousers I own. Wabi-sabi.
* Who let the dogs out?

One last comment just to add some confusion.
If you like the length as you have the leg folded in the picture and want 2" cuffs; taper the opening. Trimming the leg with 2" cuffs and no break will work.
But...
If you lengthen the trouser and don't taper the leg; do a plain bottom slanted longer to the back.
Don't do a longer length with a cuff and don't do the shorter length without tapering.
Pick what you will be pleased with and feel better wearing.

 

[gdl203]

This is where things stand presently, although imagine the cuff wasn’t making the hem seem more fitted.

View attachment 1398053

So when you look at this picture now, seeing the shoe size and the leg opening, do you still feel that you’d want a smaller opening? I’m not even talking about air flow or comfort or how the fabric falls, just looking at relative proportions.

 

[whorishconsumer]

So when you look at this picture now, seeing the shoe size and the leg opening, do you still feel that you’d want a smaller opening? I’m not even talking about air flow or comfort or how the fabric falls, just looking at relative proportions.

No - I have seen the error of my ways and think the proportions look best as they stand and following @UrbanComposition 's advice on trouser fit.

One last comment just to add some confusion.
If you like the length as you have the leg folded in the picture and want 2" cuffs; taper the opening. Trimming the leg with 2" cuffs and no break will work.
But...
If you lengthen the trouser and don't taper the leg; do a plain bottom slanted longer to the back.
Don't do a longer length with a cuff and don't do the shorter length without tapering.
Pick what you will be pleased with and feel better wearing.

Why do you think I should taper the leg with the break being where I have proposed in the above photo, and noting the comments concerning proportion to shoe size?

 

[Despos]

Expressing my dubious nature

 

[willyto]

One last comment just to add some confusion.
If you like the length as you have the leg folded in the picture and want 2" cuffs; taper the opening. Trimming the leg with 2" cuffs and no break will work.
But...
If you lengthen the trouser and don't taper the leg; do a plain bottom slanted longer to the back.
Don't do a longer length with a cuff and don't do the shorter length without tapering.
Pick what you will be pleased with and feel better wearing.

Do you mean that when doing a cuff the hem should never be slanted? I have my grandma do my cuffs and she usually aims to do the back a bit longer just like 0,5-1cm at the most. I enver told her to do so, she just doesit on the trousers where there's enough fabric to do that(Only have a few done this way). You can barely notice it, it's subtle.

 

[Despos]

Do you mean that when doing a cuff the hem should never be slanted? I have my grandma do my cuffs and she usually aims to do the back a bit longer just like 0,5-1cm at the most. I enver told her to do so, she just doesit on the trousers where there's enough fabric to do that(Only have a few done this way). You can barely notice it, it's subtle.

Looks better slanted. Only stated the trouser leg has to be cut in a way that allows the cuff angle and not create pulling or twisting. I make the back 1” longer than the front.
There is a post in the tailors tutorial thread showing cuffs made at this angle

 

[brax]

Do the styleforum thing and ask your tailor to slim the leg from 21 cm to 20.75 cm.

But only on the right leg as you are probably right quad dominant. Go 20.5cm on the left.