The Official Dieworkwear Appreciation Thread

[whorishconsumer]

[email protected]

Emailed.

 

[whorishconsumer]

Don't slim the sleg though

Even just a little, below the knee? From 21 cm to, like, 19? The knee is 24.5 cm.

 

[gdl203]

No no no.

 

[whorishconsumer]

No no no.

But whyyyyyyyyyy

 

[dieworkwear]

But whyyyyyyyyyy

Do the styleforum thing and ask your tailor to slim the leg from 21 cm to 20.75 cm.

 

[mhip]

How is streetwear defined? I haven't had a chance to read the article yet.

Protective clothing, for when you get trampled by the mobs...

 

[Keith Taylor]

Is there a good reason slimming a leg is a bad idea? I slim almost all of my dress pants to 21cm (because they’re mostly vintage, and usually cut wider than current tastes), and they always come out fine. What am I missing?

 

[dieworkwear]

Is there a good reason slimming a leg is a bad idea? I slim almost all of my dress pants to 21cm (because they’re mostly vintage, and usually cut wider than current tastes), and they always come out fine. What am I missing?

I suppose it depends on the silhouette and wearer, but I generally think slimming the leg opening beyond 7.75" is a bad idea on most guys. Some exceptions for very casual SWD fits. But on a tailored outfit, I think you want to be careful about going too narrow.

19cm leg opening for a CM type fit sounds like a bad idea to me.

 

[gdl203]

Yea I’m half joking. There’s no absolute universal answer. If you have very skinny legs and small feet, then 19 cm on Rota style trousers could work. It’s all a matter of proportions. If conversely you have big feet, then 21 cm may make them appear gigantic. For most though, 21 cm will be about right and definitely not something to overthink too much

 

[Despos]

But whyyyyyyyyyy

Cannot answer why because I don't know why.
Can offer my analysis.
I don't isolate one measurement on a trouser from the whole. Best design in tailored clothing has an overall proportion that creates a cohesive line and balance. Would not determine the leg opening without considering how wide or narrow your hips, thighs or calves are. Best line falls straight and clean. Leg is not distorted from clinging or pulling on your calf or following the curve in your leg.
My default and ultimate point of determining leg opening is how the trouser sits on the shoe. This relates to shoe size and style like Greg mentioned. Narrow opening needs to be shorter to avoid stacking.
My preference is the crease on the front of the leg touch the shoe. This could be any size opening because it's determined by individual specifics. Prefer a wide enough opening to allow the trouser to sit gracefully on the shoe. This looks right to my eye and is more elegant. If you wear a variety of shoes a wider opening is more forgiving. Anywhere between 8" to a 9" opening seems to be most accommodating. Narrower or wider than this usually looks better if you are a specific size and proportion; meaning you have to have the right body shape/proportion to pull it off. It's a mistake to see a picture of a guy with the right body type wearing a trim cut trouser and thinking if I get trousers cut that way, I will look like that. Doesn't work that way. They look good because the cut is in harmony with their body type. Doesn't mean you will look the same. Finding the thigh, knee and bottom circumferences that work for you is key. What works on one person does not create a universal formula that can be applied to others. A well cut trouser or jacket can moderate your body type/proportion but it doesn't transform it.
Too many guys have worn jeans primarily and try to get trousers to fit like jeans. Jeans should fit like jeans. They don't look and feel right when they are too loose.Trousers aren't jeans.

 

[whorishconsumer]

This is where things stand presently, although imagine the cuff wasn’t making the hem seem more fitted.

I come from having worn skinny jeans, a preference I imparted to my tailoring. However I have been coming around to wider fits (acknowledging 21 cm isn't wide in classic menswear). I think I am content with leaving the width as is, especially as the extra capacity will allow for better airflow in the humid NYC heat.

Other related questions:

* How's the above break?
* I am getting these cuffed. 2" doesn't seem like enough cuff to me. Is 3" absolutely egregious?
* Is it a good idea/can one have a slant applied to a cuffed hem?
* My right leg is maybe 0.5 cm shorter than my left. Generally, is it worthwhile to try to nail down the differential and have a tailor account for this? I have had this done with maybe one pair of trousers I own. Wabi-sabi.
* Who let the dogs out?

 

[Despos]

This is where things stand presently, although imagine the cuff wasn’t making the hem seem more fitted.

View attachment 1398053

I come from having worn skinny jeans, a preference I imparted to my tailoring. However I have been coming around to wider fits (acknowledging 21 cm isn't wide in classic menswear). I think I am content with leaving the width as is, especially as the extra capacity will allow for better airflow in the humid NYC heat.

Other related questions:

* How's the above break?
* I am getting these cuffed. 2" doesn't seem like enough cuff to me. Is 3" absolutely egregious?
* Is it a good idea/can one have a slant applied to a cuffed hem?
* My right leg is maybe 0.5 cm shorter than my left. Generally, is it worthwhile to try to nail down the differential and have a tailor account for this? I have had this done with maybe one pair of trousers I own.
* Who let the dogs out?

Add .5” to the length in the front.
If you find a tailor who will make you 3” cuffs because he agrees it’s a good idea, will buy you a beer.
Why would you want one leg .5” shorter than the other?
There is a post about slanted cuffs in the tailor’s tutorial thread. Trouser leg has to be cut for this. RTW is not cut for this. Not many tailors know how it’s done.

 

[whorishconsumer]

tailor’s tutorial thread

So, 2" then.

My tailor slants my hems, but to date I have not done a cuffed hem. It sounds like I should just go straight with this one.

The differential would be ~ 0.5 cm, because one trouser leg falls longer than the other. Because one leg is longer than the other.

 

[dalevy]

Curious, how tall are you? I have some trousers that have 2 inch cuffs but I’ll do 1 3/4 nowadays. Won’t go so far as to change the current 2 inch cuffs but I prefer the less noticeable cuff.

This is where things stand presently, although imagine the cuff wasn’t making the hem seem more fitted.

View attachment 1398053

I come from having worn skinny jeans, a preference I imparted to my tailoring. However I have been coming around to wider fits (acknowledging 21 cm isn't wide in classic menswear). I think I am content with leaving the width as is, especially as the extra capacity will allow for better airflow in the humid NYC heat.

Other related questions:

* How's the above break?
* I am getting these cuffed. 2" doesn't seem like enough cuff to me. Is 3" absolutely egregious?
* Is it a good idea/can one have a slant applied to a cuffed hem?
* My right leg is maybe 0.5 cm shorter than my left. Generally, is it worthwhile to try to nail down the differential and have a tailor account for this? I have had this done with maybe one pair of trousers I own. Wabi-sabi.
* Who let the dogs out?

 

[whorishconsumer]

Curious, how tall are you? I have some trousers that have 2 inch cuffs but I’ll do 1 3/4 nowadays. Won’t go so far as to change the current 2 inch cuffs but I prefer the less noticeable cuff.

Just shy of 6'3".