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The Official Dieworkwear Appreciation Thread

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This isn’t really Dieworkwear related, but given that the thread has usually had good discussions I’ll post this here.
I’m not a big fan of the traditional brass button navy blazer, but I absolutely love Mark Cho’s tweed DB with brass buttons.



I initially thought it was a charcoal tweed, but seeing more pictures and The Armoury’s video it turns out to be char-navy cloth (Fox Brothers TD22).


Inspired by Mark I’m now thinking of making myself a tweed DB with brass buttons as my next project. The char-navy obviously looks great, but I was thinking that a marled dark brown, dark green or charcoal could also look very nice as long as the brown or green are cold and dark enough. The options in these colours from Fox Brothers (TD20, TD18, TD21) all look like they could work nicely:




What wouldn’t work as nicely with Fox Brothers though is the price of the cloth. As I’m very much an amateur tailor I’d prefer not to drop close to 400 GBP on cloth when the end product may or may not be something I’m happy with.

Some (more reasonably priced) options from Marling and Evans in quite different styles than the Fox Brothers twill tweeds:
Netherton1.png

Netherton2.png

Newmill.png


Which type of a tweed (colour, pattern, weave) do you think would work nicely as a DB with brass buttons à la Mark Cho? Also straight-up cloth suggestions are welcome. Thanks!
 

ojaw

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This isn’t really Dieworkwear related, but given that the thread has usually had good discussions I’ll post this here.
I’m not a big fan of the traditional brass button navy blazer, but I absolutely love Mark Cho’s tweed DB with brass buttons.



I initially thought it was a charcoal tweed, but seeing more pictures and The Armoury’s video it turns out to be char-navy cloth (Fox Brothers TD22).


Inspired by Mark I’m now thinking of making myself a tweed DB with brass buttons as my next project. The char-navy obviously looks great, but I was thinking that a marled dark brown, dark green or charcoal could also look very nice as long as the brown or green are cold and dark enough. The options in these colours from Fox Brothers (TD20, TD18, TD21) all look like they could work nicely:




What wouldn’t work as nicely with Fox Brothers though is the price of the cloth. As I’m very much an amateur tailor I’d prefer not to drop close to 400 GBP on cloth when the end product may or may not be something I’m happy with.

Some (more reasonably priced) options from Marling and Evans in quite different styles than the Fox Brothers twill tweeds:
View attachment 1821413
View attachment 1821414
View attachment 1821415

Which type of a tweed (colour, pattern, weave) do you think would work nicely as a DB with brass buttons à la Mark Cho? Also straight-up cloth suggestions are welcome. Thanks!
Traditional wools used for that kind of jacket haven’t really worked for me either, I think most of those you linked would be better! Then again I prefer bone or nut buttons as well…
 

losrockets

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The deep twill of the Fox Bros cloth (is it a covert/whipcord?) I think confers some of the crispness of Marks DB (which I think makes it look so good mood) in the same way a heavy twill wool pant hangs so handsomely. Having handled M&E's Netherton cloth, I am not convinced you get that same look - it's softer, a fuzzy basket weave.
 

comrade

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Inspired I think by NMWA’s beautiful Stoffa collaboration, I’m now thinking about a new coat for AW. This was always a de facto coat thread so maybe it should continue to be so in spite of Derek’s absence (?).

I’m in England so NMWA is out of the question, but I’d be interested to hear of any early recommendations.

This knocked my socks off:

View attachment 1818664
For some reason I find the pocket flap treatment on Italian coats less attractive
than found on US/UK traditional coats. On Italian coats the flap does not usually
extend fully across the patch pocket. On US/UK coats it usually extends further:
s7-1223741_lifestyle.jpeg
 

gdl203

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For some reason I find the pocket flap treatment on Italian coats less attractive
than found on US/UK traditional coats. On Italian coats the flap does not usually
extend fully across the patch pocket. On US/UK coats it usually extends further:
View attachment 1821555
Can you explain what you mean? I’m not sure I understand based on the illustration you used. The coat in your picture, just like the one we developed, has letterbox/envelope style hip pockets. The flap is designed to be cleanly tucked into the pocket, so it is narrower than the pocket itself and it’s welt. It’s pretty traditional for Ulster coats, even US/UK ones.

Do you prefer flapped patch pockets where the flap covers the whole width of the pocket and cannot be tucked in? Like this:

5C18E2D4-EC4C-48B4-AE8D-B5CB070B542E.jpeg
 
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The deep twill of the Fox Bros cloth (is it a covert/whipcord?) I think confers some of the crispness of Marks DB (which I think makes it look so good mood) in the same way a heavy twill wool pant hangs so handsomely. Having handled M&E's Netherton cloth, I am not convinced you get that same look - it's softer, a fuzzy basket weave.
Thanks for the input on the Netherton!

I think you're probably right about the deep twill. I tried to identify why the jacket works so well in my opinion in that cloth. The attributes I could come up with were the darkness of the cloth, the marling, the grey shade, and the twill. The dark cloth with the grey shade plays very beautifully together with the brass.

I guess what I’m trying to figure out is what types of tweeds would achieve the same “feel” as Mark’s jacket without necessarily being a direct of copy.
 

ziggy1984

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justridiculous

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mmmargeologist

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I picked up one of those 101Js a couple of years ago. I loved it, but it was so dang short... straight up like a crop top.
I hear ya. I made sure to get the 70’s era based on tags for the original fitting (loose and squat). Hopefully it works out. I dont mind the crop on some of my other 70s era stuff. But I still havent received this one yet so i might change my mind and be in your camp once it comes in.
 

mmmargeologist

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Where do y’all stand on reproduction updates versus staying true to the original? I wrestle with the idea of changes. I’d hate to place everything on a long, slim-fit, chassis. But on the other hand there’s a difference between novel and good, and man some “updated” repros look so good.

Reason I ask is because I’ve had my eye on the Wrangler Icons selvedge 124MJ. They lengthened the body and slimmed the arms. I think it looks good but definitely different from the originals.

Some rando i screenshot on ig
FBFA622E-8474-4959-B89B-0657C0AA816C.jpeg
 

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