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The Official Dieworkwear Appreciation Thread

gdl203

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Not really - it's impossible to say or know what happened exactly - could have been salt or something staying on the leather for a while. I have no idea what exactly weakened the leather but shoes aren't warrantied like that, especially if they are not maintained that well (I don't throw the stone, as I said, I don't maintain mine well either)
 

alkydrinker

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Going back a few days in this thread to the convo on velvety corduroy...

I also found out the hard way that there is a lot of shiny, velvety corduroy fabric out there at the moment...I think Brisbane Moss is a major supplier of it. I bought a darker green PRL sportcoat a couple years ago...only after seeing it in some different lighting I realized how much it looks like more like a velvet smoking jacket and not at all the dusty, 80's brooks brothers, tweedy professor look I am after in a cord SC. I could only see wearing it to nicer, evening settings. In fact, because of its limited wearability and my desire to scale down my closet size, I'm thinking of putting it for sale.

Moving forward, I'm contemplating doing a MTM through Spier and Mackay to try to get a new corduroy jacket that actually looks how I want. Spier only has Brisbane Moss cord fabrics, but there are 2 lines of corduroy from Brisbane: T1 and 3124. Brisbane generously allows you to order free swatches (totally free, even free overseas shipping from UK to US), and in doing so I found that the 3124 line (which is a little cheaper) seems to be the really shiny, velvety line. I think the T1 looks the way I want, tho I am not 100% from the small swatch....I feel like I'd need to see a bigger piece to know for sure how it reflects the light and such. But, I'm seriously thinking about rolling the dice and ordering up a jacket in the T1.

Here is the 3124 next to two samples of the T1:
 

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hpreston

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Any anti-enabler & pro-enabler critiques on having too many coats in a wardrobe?

My coat wardrobe looks like this:

-Light Grey PoW check Bal for cold winter, roomy
-Mid-grey melton peacoat for cold winter, trim
-Mid-brown ulster/polo tweed coat for mild winter, very trim
-Grey patchwork Bal for fall/spring, roomy

I found another vintage Bal in mottled charcoal that is awfully tempting me right now.
As others have said below, nothing wrong with many coats, but looking at your current selection (Light grey, mid grey, brown, another grey) I would suggest adding in a navy piece vice another grey.

Excluding hunting and fishing outerwear, I probably have 25-30 coats.

Treat them like socks ... you can't have too many.

lefty
nothin wrong with too many coats, don't think 4 is too many
4 is not too many, it is nice to have variety of colors/weights. I think I am the point of needing to cull the heard though....

Navy DB (Ring jacket Balloon cloth)
Camel (color, not cloth) DB (just a hint too snug, fine over knitwear, but cant wear over any sort of tailoring)
Charcoal SB (killer cashmere)
2 x Navy SB (one very conservative, the other from Doppiaa, a little less conservative)
Camoshita Bal
KS lightweight Traveler

This is just wool or wool variety over/top coats, does not include casual (barbour, barracuta, valstar etc.) or rainwear.
 

dieworkwear

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Going back a few days in this thread to the convo on velvety corduroy...

I also found out the hard way that there is a lot of shiny, velvety corduroy fabric out there at the moment...I think Brisbane Moss is a major supplier of it. I bought a darker green PRL sportcoat a couple years ago...only after seeing it in some different lighting I realized how much it looks like more like a velvet smoking jacket and not at all the dusty, 80's brooks brothers, tweedy professor look I am after in a cord SC. I could only see wearing it to nicer, evening settings. In fact, because of its limited wearability and my desire to scale down my closet size, I'm thinking of putting it for sale.

Moving forward, I'm contemplating doing a MTM through Spier and Mackay to try to get a new corduroy jacket that actually looks how I want. Spier only has Brisbane Moss cord fabrics, but there are 2 lines of corduroy from Brisbane: T1 and 3124. Brisbane generously allows you to order free swatches (totally free, even free overseas shipping from UK to US), and in doing so I found that the 3124 line (which is a little cheaper) seems to be the really shiny, velvety line. I think the T1 looks the way I want, tho I am not 100% from the small swatch....I feel like I'd need to see a bigger piece to know for sure how it reflects the light and such. But, I'm seriously thinking about rolling the dice and ordering up a jacket in the T1.

Here is the 3124 next to two samples of the T1:
Be careful with the weights Brisbane Moss lists. Most mills and merchants list weights as per linear meter, whereas Brisbane Moss lists per square meter. To convert, you will want to multiply by 1.45.

I think sometimes guys buy a Brisbane Moss fabric thinking that it's 12oz (considered midweight) and then find the resulting garment is quite thick and heavy because the fabric is actually 17oz or so under conventional measures.
 

emptym

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@alkydrinker, I don't have anything made of Brisbane Moss corduroy, but I've heard good things. Currently, I Sarti is making me a jacket out of a really nice, dark green corduroy by Huddersfield/Minnis #9366 which is 700 gr/mr or 20 oz/yd. Pics from a fitting here.

Re. velvet jackets, I have a brown velvet jacket that I thrifted 20 yrs ago and I like it a lot.
 

zenosparadox

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Going back a few days in this thread to the convo on velvety corduroy...

I also found out the hard way that there is a lot of shiny, velvety corduroy fabric out there at the moment...I think Brisbane Moss is a major supplier of it. I bought a darker green PRL sportcoat a couple years ago...only after seeing it in some different lighting I realized how much it looks like more like a velvet smoking jacket and not at all the dusty, 80's brooks brothers, tweedy professor look I am after in a cord SC. I could only see wearing it to nicer, evening settings. In fact, because of its limited wearability and my desire to scale down my closet size, I'm thinking of putting it for sale.

Moving forward, I'm contemplating doing a MTM through Spier and Mackay to try to get a new corduroy jacket that actually looks how I want. Spier only has Brisbane Moss cord fabrics, but there are 2 lines of corduroy from Brisbane: T1 and 3124. Brisbane generously allows you to order free swatches (totally free, even free overseas shipping from UK to US), and in doing so I found that the 3124 line (which is a little cheaper) seems to be the really shiny, velvety line. I think the T1 looks the way I want, tho I am not 100% from the small swatch....I feel like I'd need to see a bigger piece to know for sure how it reflects the light and such. But, I'm seriously thinking about rolling the dice and ordering up a jacket in the T1.

Here is the 3124 next to two samples of the T1:
If it's any help at all, I can tell you with absolute certainty that this is a garment made up in BM T1 corduroy: https://www.sehkelly.com/shop/shirts/granddad-shirt/shirt-in-corduroy-in-hay/

I have a few of these shirts in different colors and quite like them. There's luster to it, but I definitely don't find it shiny. Here's an old photo of me in the "cedar" version of the shirt (which is the name SEH Kelly uses, but not the name that BM gives it on the swatch)
.
S.E.H. Kelly corduroy cedar shirt in Size L.jpg


I've always thought this corduroy would make up well as a suit.
 

alkydrinker

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@zenosparadox , thx very much for that pic of the T1! I also found that searching T1 on the Spier & Mackay site they have 3 pairs of trousers in different colors using T1. TBH, based on your pic and those on S&M, I am still a little concerned it looks a bit too velvety and sortof "lux" for what I am going for. But it's hard to tell....even the most matte, dusty corduroys seem to photograph with a lot of high and lows due to the nap effect inherent to cord.

The color of that shirt however, does look about perfect for what I'm going for in a sport coat. I believe it very well may be the "Tan" color in my swatch pic a few posts up.
 

lefty

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Now that I think about it, I may have too many coats. In my defense, I like coats and almost never leave the house - even on the hottest days - without layers.

I'm in Mexico and brought four jacket/coats with me. My wife stopped me from bringing five. Not sure when I started travelling like Diana Ross, but there you have it.

lefty
 

tobehknese

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Any anti-enabler & pro-enabler critiques on having too many coats in a wardrobe?

My coat wardrobe looks like this:

-Light Grey PoW check Bal for cold winter, roomy
-Mid-grey melton peacoat for cold winter, trim
-Mid-brown ulster/polo tweed coat for mild winter, very trim
-Grey patchwork Bal for fall/spring, roomy

I found another vintage Bal in mottled charcoal that is awfully tempting me right now.
i had quite a few coats too but trying to keep downsize to only 2 now. esp just relocated to LA.. tbh, i don't see myself wearing them anytime soon unless i am traveling to a colder climate. also with the lifestyle change, a balmacaan would probably be a nice add on.

-isaia brown chaia coat (for sale)
-isaia camel casentino coat (sold)
-eidos navy belted ulster coat (interest check)
-rlpl camel cashmere polo coat
-rlpl admiral coat (sold)
-private white peacoat (sold)
 

FlyingHorker

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As others have said below, nothing wrong with many coats, but looking at your current selection (Light grey, mid grey, brown, another grey) I would suggest adding in a navy piece vice another grey.

4 is not too many, it is nice to have variety of colors/weights. I think I am the point of needing to cull the heard though....

Navy DB (Ring jacket Balloon cloth)
Camel (color, not cloth) DB (just a hint too snug, fine over knitwear, but cant wear over any sort of tailoring)
Charcoal SB (killer cashmere)
2 x Navy SB (one very conservative, the other from Doppiaa, a little less conservative)
Camoshita Bal
KS lightweight Traveler

This is just wool or wool variety over/top coats, does not include casual (barbour, barracuta, valstar etc.) or rainwear.
Navy is a struggle to me, it's a formal colour, and often flat.

The only remotely appealing ones I've seen are the KS Traveler. Navy peacoat works colourwise, but not in terms of versatility.

If I had to nuke one coat in your wool wardrobe, I'd get rid of the conservative Navy SB, and/or possibly replace the Camel DB with a roomier version.
 

cr2596

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Navy is a struggle to me, it's a formal colour, and often flat.

The only remotely appealing ones I've seen are the KS Traveler. Navy peacoat works colourwise, but not in terms of versatility.

If I had to nuke one coat in your wool wardrobe, I'd get rid of the conservative Navy SB, and/or possibly replace the Camel DB with a roomier version.
I think navy casentino is a good choice to quell the above concerns and satisfy your desire for casentino.
 

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