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The Official Dieworkwear Appreciation Thread

Keith Taylor

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this may neither be here nor there but there's a new(ish) show on Netflix called The Sepent and I think the wardrobe is simply outstanding (and period correct)

View attachment 1610097
I'm ten minutes into the first episode and loving the wardrobe so far. However, having spent the last decade or so living six months each year in Bangkok, all I can think is "there's no way you're wearing that without sweating through it in five seconds." I'm watching a nightclub scene in Hong Kong - pre-air conditioning - and the dude looks comfortable in long trousers. Nope. Westerners don't deal well with that climate.
 

radicaldog

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So Derek's written before about how menswear more or less hasn't changed in 100 years (at least for those who still wear something other than athleisure) and I always took that with a grain of salt. Recently, however, I found a 1937 yearbook from my kid's high school and it's amazing. Guys in perfectly high-waisted trousers with billowy shirts rolled at the sleeve, Harrington jackets, knitwear like zip up cardigans and camp shirts. The only thing that stands out to me is a lot of guys have a time piece chain at the waist but other than that it's all basically current styleforum ideals for casual menswear
Hardly what high school kids wear these days though.
 

Numbernine

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I was 30 years old in 1975 and had recently spent some time in that part of the world. I found the show fascinating.
 

sood

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I'm ten minutes into the first episode and loving the wardrobe so far. However, having spent the last decade or so living six months each year in Bangkok, all I can think is "there's no way you're wearing that without sweating through it in five seconds." I'm watching a nightclub scene in Hong Kong - pre-air conditioning - and the dude looks comfortable in long trousers. Nope. Westerners don't deal well with that climate.
haha Paul and Herman have been shown to not deal with heat too well, their shirts are always sweat stained and suits always crumpled!
 

Keith Taylor

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haha Paul and Herman have been shown to not deal with heat too well, their shirts are always sweat stained and suits always crumpled!
True :) I’m now 4 episodes in. Absolutely loving it, but I had to force myself to stop for the night as it’s 4AM. I’m getting the impression now that sweat is used in the show mostly to denote that a character is afraid or out of their element, or in Paul’s case to suggest that he’s embraced the heat - and Thailand’s grimy underbelly - while the other diplomats remain crisp and distant. This is an extreeeeeeemely well made show, and the costume choices are fantastic. I’m especially coveting some of the 70s eyewear.
 

Polo Collar

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1621349395673.png



Which Ascot Chang collar does Derek use back when he is writing the OCBD series for Put This On? Recently I took a unlined Brooks OCBD to Ascot Chang to copy the collar, but the fitting shirt's collar looks nothing like Brooks'.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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View attachment 1611648


Which Ascot Chang collar does Derek use back when he is writing the OCBD series for Put This On? Recently I took a unlined Brooks OCBD to Ascot Chang to copy the collar, but the fitting shirt's collar looks nothing like Brooks'.
I don't remember the design process for that specific shirt, but I eventually gave Ascot Chang a 1960s Brooks Brothers shirt and had them copy the collar. I think the results turned out pretty well.

I'm surprised the process didn't work for you. Might it be because of the button placement?
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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View attachment 1611715

Ascot Chang fitting shirt

View attachment 1611717

Brooks' collar

Maybe I should wash the Ascot Chang one few times before making comparison
Strange. The AC shirt looks like it has an unusually tall collar.

Something you can do: take both shirts and lay the collars flat. Then trace the collar. Compare the two tracings to see if the cut is the same.

Also, why does the AC shirt have a raw hem?
 

Journeyman

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I actually did that (compare the two collar by putting one on top of other) in shop and they match.
Also check:
- The height of the collar band on both shirts; and
- The position of the buttons for the "button down" collar points.

If the collar band is higher on the AC shirt, it will make the collar look different. Also, the placement of the collar buttons can make a big difference - put them in the wrong position, such as too far out or too far down, and you don't get that ideal, bell-shaped collar roll that people obsess over with OCBD shirts.
 

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