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The Official Dieworkwear Appreciation Thread

Jagger_On

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I wish I could take credit for that, but that was Jesse's entry. I've been listening to their music since putting up that post yesterday though. Really dig them.

Do you know of other groups like that?
Surprised they haven’t been mentioned yet but the best of the south London jazz scene for me are Ezra Collective. The album last year and the singles this are the best.

Shabaka is king to be fair. Summon the fire by Comet is Coming was probably my favourite song of last year. Space rock jazz from another dimension. I need to listen to more Sons of Kemet and he had an album called Shabaka and the ancestors out this year that is ace.

There’s a great compilation called We Are Here which has all the best names from the scene like Nubya Garcia, Moses Boyd and a few others that’s worth checking. There’s a really good blue note reimagined compilation that came out this year as well.

On a slightly different tip, you might like Sault based on some of the stuff you post. Untitled (Black Is) is a very timely record and probably the best of the two albums they released this years (4 in the last 18 months) although Rise is also magnificent. Not quite sure why they haven’t crossed over, Widfires should have been massive this summer. Nice wee write up on the 6music albums of the year post. Can’t recommend these guys enough, a very special band.

Guardian review of Rise https://www.theguardian.com/music/2020/sep/17/sault-untitled-rise-review
 

UrbanComposition

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I've never understood how people conflate intentionally roomy cuts with actual body measurements, but it could be because I was a teenager in the late 80s/90s when everything got really big. The Madchester scene, then housers, skaters, and finally Millers Outpost and #menswear all had oversized clothes, and no one cared. If anything, having oversized clothes can hide less-than-ideal body shapes, whereas overly slim cuts seem to accentuate them.

I'm not saying big clothes automatically get a pass, nor am I dissing slim clothing; I still love that mod/continential 60s look and think it looks cool and sharp, if cut well. At the same time, clothes with all those swaths of flowy fabric (also if cut well) give drama and panache that precisely tailored clothing can never have.
 
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Calanon

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I'm saying big clothes automatically get a pass, nor am I dissing slim clothing; I still love that mod/continential 60s look and think it looks cool and sharp, if cut well. At the same time, clothes with all those swaths of flowy fabric (also if cut well) give drama and panache that precisely tailored clothing can never have.
Yeah. I love cloaks and how they move when one walks, and a Balmacaan is the closest I can get whilst being socially acceptable.
 

FlyingHorker

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Brogue menswear has a grey version of that coat from a prior season that I *almost* jumped on during their black friday weekend sale. Now I'm kind of wishing I had; the shape is so good...

Loden coats: I love the long pleat in the back with the A-line silhouette, but yeah those shoulders just really don't do it for me. Visually the "A" shape comes up to a broad horizontal line instead of one's head forming the point. Gotta be raglan shoulders with that shape.

Team all bals all the time (TWSS).
The second paragraph explains it well on why the shoulders look funny.

Watch me buy one in 3 years anyway.
 

EUtroll

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I've never understood how people conflate intentionally roomy cuts with actual body measurements, but it could be because I was a teenager in the late 80s/90s when everything got really big. The Madchester scene, then housers, skaters, and finally Millers Outpost and #menswear all had oversized clothes, and no one cared. If anything, having oversized clothes can hide less-than-ideal body shapes, whereas overly slim cuts seem to accentuate them.

I'm not saying big clothes automatically get a pass, nor am I dissing slim clothing; I still love that mod/continential 60s look and think it looks cool and sharp, if cut well. At the same time, clothes with all those swaths of flowy fabric (also if cut well) give drama and panache that precisely tailored clothing can never have.
I think that's absolutely true. I've gotten some great more full cut pieces over the last couple of years but still prefer the slimmer cut I got accustomed to in my late teenage and student years.
 

gdl203

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I wish I could take credit for that, but that was Jesse's entry. I've been listening to their music since putting up that post yesterday though. Really dig them.

Do you know of other groups like that?
Kamasi Washington was already noted, also Yesterday's New Quintent/Young Jazz Rebels/any other jazz stuff from Madlib (the new stuff from Jahari Massamba Unit album is dope), Karriem Riggins, The Robert Glasper Experiment, Lettuce, Flying Lotus, Surprise Chef, Tom Misch, Skinshape, and Kiefer, to name a few.
That band has a few other things kicking around. The drummer on that track, Yussef Dayes, recorded an album with Kamal Williams called Black Focus that touches on that vibe (though the standout is a little more abstract; Kamal's solo work has some good stuff as well, but the mixing is suboptimal), and has a few singles floating around (For My Ladies, Othello, and Yesterday Princess), plus a bunch of live sessions. Mansur Brown, the guitar player, did an album that is ok, but this live version of Mashita takes a sketch on the album track and makes it fucking aces. Alfa Mist, the keyboard player, has a few albums (that are pretty hit or miss for me, the songs with vocalists just never work for me), and just did a fantastic spacy cover of Eddie Henderson's Galaxy for a Blue Note compilation.

For that UK scene in general, there's a ton of stuff coming out that is interesting, and related, though not all quite the same in feel. There's Kokoroko for that vibe plus Afrobeat - Abusey Junction is a real downtempo standout. Robohands' first album was a similar fusion thing, melded with 90s electronica and 60s production values. For something that really turns up the spiritual jazz influence, there's Maisha and Shakaba and the Elders (Shakaba Hutchings also has a band, The Comet is Coming, that can go from tripped out to punked up, and Sons Of Kemet who have more of an Afrobeat feel).
Surprised they haven’t been mentioned yet but the best of the south London jazz scene for me are Ezra Collective. The album last year and the singles this are the best.

Shabaka is king to be fair. Summon the fire by Comet is Coming was probably my favourite song of last year. Space rock jazz from another dimension. I need to listen to more Sons of Kemet and he had an album called Shabaka and the ancestors out this year that is ace.

There’s a great compilation called We Are Here which has all the best names from the scene like Nubya Garcia, Moses Boyd and a few others that’s worth checking. There’s a really good blue note reimagined compilation that came out this year as well.

On a slightly different tip, you might like Sault based on some of the stuff you post. Untitled (Black Is) is a very timely record and probably the best of the two albums they released this years (4 in the last 18 months) although Rise is also magnificent. Not quite sure why they haven’t crossed over, Widfires should have been massive this summer. Nice wee write up on the 6music albums of the year post. Can’t recommend these guys enough, a very special band.

Guardian review of Rise https://www.theguardian.com/music/2020/sep/17/sault-untitled-rise-review
*We Out Here. Great primer for that UK scene.
I’d add Emma Jean Thackray to the UK jazz scene chat.

Incidentally, Blue Note recently released a compilation of tunes from the catalogue, covered by UK jazz artists. Some decent stuff on there: http://www.bluenote.com/out-now-blue-note-reimagined-classic-blue-note-tracks-re-imagined-by-the-uks-sharpest-talents/
Dare I mention our Spotify playlists Jazz Forward pt 1 and 2?



We listen to a lot of new British jazz in the office. Some it makes its way to our playlists.

I saw Ezra Collective and Nubya Garcia last year - amazing energy for jazz, especially Ezra
 
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gdl203

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Lots of great recommendations so far. I’d add (if already mentioned, sorry I missed it)
- Alfa Mist (all albums)
- Ashley Henry
- Badbadnotgood
- the “Dinner Party” albums
- Joe Armon-Jones (part of Ezra too, plays with Nubya...)
- Keyon Harrold
- Khruangbin
- Makaya McCraven
- Mansur Brown
- Marcus Strickland
- Nerija
- Steve Lacy
- Tom Misch was mentioned but I want to especially recommend What Kinda Music with Yussef Dayes
 

TheShetlandSweater

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With regards to the whole balmacaan/loden coat conversation, clothes can look good in a number of ways. Flattering one's physique is just one of those ways. I don't think clothes should be unflattering, but a balmacaan is neither flattering, nor unflattering. Balmacaans are attractive for other reasons. Done right, I think they are arguably the most beautiful coats out there. There is just something about the way heavy, more rigid fabric drapes and ripples.
 

FlyingHorker

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@dieworkwear Do you have any pictures of Bals with different pocket configurations? That Kaptain Sunshine Coat's pockets look really nice. I found this one with giant patch pockets. Basically wondering if there exists a "Kapital" look for a Bal.

 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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@dieworkwear Do you have any pictures of Bals with different pocket configurations? That Kaptain Sunshine Coat's pockets look really nice. I found this one with giant patch pockets. Basically wondering if there exists a "Kapital" look for a Bal.

Don't have those photos organized by pocket style, unfortunately. But the two main styles I've seen are flapped like Kaptain Sunshine or slash like on a traditional bal coat.
 

K. Nights

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Since this thread is kind of bal coat central, I thought I'd ask here. I'm looking for some opinions on which color I should go for. I was originally thinking dark brown but now I feel like that might be a bit too old man for me. At that moment I'm leaning toward a darker grey herringbone, but I'm not totally opposed to something with pattern either, since this is a more casual coat. I like this one from Berg & Berg for example:
7C9B27E9-261E-4101-A5CA-FF46EF5CD88D.jpeg


In terms of other long coats, I have a navy polo coat and also a couple of Robert Geller coats (but I mostly wear the Geller with more streetwear stuff).
Any opinions?
 

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