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The Official Dieworkwear Appreciation Thread

K. Nights

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Do you happen to know how the sizing works? The chart says the shoulder is bigger than the chest in the same size which sounds weird.
They are definitely a roomy fit and have a dropped shoulder (presumably for range of motion when playing rugby)
 

losrockets

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Back to the balmacaan discussion, here's another one to throw into the ring - Loro Piana Storm System Cashmere from Cavour https://cavour.co/en/product/2968/raglan-cashmere-belt-coat Strongly considering this one, but I haven't had any experience w/ Storm System and hear it's not very comfortable, also that this will probably be fairly lightweight (albeit fine for Texas). Not sure it goes as well w/ casual looks either.

You can also MTM a long raglan car coat from Kent Wang, with options for a belted back, inverted pleat, etc. I might go in this direction because of the price and flexibility ($as low as the mid 700s w/ a full canvas!).
 

Thin White Duke

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Just found that article on PTO and yeah these recommendations line up with it.

Looks like I'll have to look into Columbia Knit.

Do you happen to know how the sizing works? The chart says the shoulder is bigger than the chest in the same size which sounds weird.
I have a couple, I look upon them as a casual cold weather version of a long sleeve polo. Most of the brands I would have suggested have been mentioned already but will add Joseph Turner to the list (mail order catalogue and online store).
I got one from the Rowing Blazer shop on the lower east side. Silly price really but genuinely beefy thick cotton and I loved the colours ...

 

FlyingHorker

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I have a couple, I look upon them as a casual cold weather version of a long sleeve polo. Most of the brands I would have suggested have been mentioned already but will add Joseph Turner to the list (mail order catalogue and online store).
I got one from the Rowing Blazer shop on the lower east side. Silly price really but genuinely beefy thick cotton and I loved the colours ...

Shirt looks solid. Nice Gazelles too. Those were my first real shoes growing up. I'm tempted to pick up a pair again. I'm definitely in a nostalgia mood lately.
They are definitely a roomy fit and have a dropped shoulder (presumably for range of motion when playing rugby)
Ok that makes sense, thank you.
 

TheShetlandSweater

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Back to the balmacaan discussion, here's another one to throw into the ring - Loro Piana Storm System Cashmere from Cavour https://cavour.co/en/product/2968/raglan-cashmere-belt-coat Strongly considering this one, but I haven't had any experience w/ Storm System and hear it's not very comfortable, also that this will probably be fairly lightweight (albeit fine for Texas). Not sure it goes as well w/ casual looks either.

You can also MTM a long raglan car coat from Kent Wang, with options for a belted back, inverted pleat, etc. I might go in this direction because of the price and flexibility ($as low as the mid 700s w/ a full canvas!).
1606107337570.png


Belted balmacaans look good from the front, not so much from the side or back. If you aren't wearing a jacket underneath, they aren't as bad.
 

pablum

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"By the mid-90s, breakdancing was so thoroughly co-opted by the Suits, it was considered uncool in the streets, and a new dance movement emerged called freestyling."

Suits in the 2000s:
 

kaizerpi

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I have a couple, I look upon them as a casual cold weather version of a long sleeve polo. Most of the brands I would have suggested have been mentioned already but will add Joseph Turner to the list (mail order catalogue and online store).
I got one from the Rowing Blazer shop on the lower east side. Silly price really but genuinely beefy thick cotton and I loved the colours ...

+1 on the rowing blazers one. I particularly like their reproduction vintage jerseys for the national teams (I have the japanese sakuras). I played a bit in high school and college and the beefy cotton really seems like it would hold up in actual play.

They produced those rugby shirts in conjunction with Sports d'Epoque so you could go directly to the source if you wanted. https://www.sports-depoque.com/en/
 

Nobilis Animus

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Apropos of D's recent article:

Was just chatting to a guy from the UK this afternoon, and we agreed that it seems subcultures are less “underground” than they were when we were kids, or more accurately: they would stay underground for longer. Nowadays, all it takes is one tweet, and an aesthetic can then be co-opted with none of the associated culture. The laziness of most people means they won’t be concerned with the origins of those styles, and their meaning or identity risks becoming diluted at best, if not completely disassociated.

This can be an OK thing: workwear is now worn by office workers, flight jackets by people who have never piloted a plane, and so on. But the idea of clothing reflecting one’s values/culture is becoming less of a thing, and...I'm ambivalent about it. In general I think it’s a good thing, since the associations people have with certain articles of clothing become less potent (e.g. M65 jackets), and people can wear something simply because they think it looks cool. I’m all for that, but then you risk big companies and corporations mining whatever "underground" style willy-nilly.
I wonder if this isn't more to do with a lack of creativity currently, plus the (ironically) strong desire in modern customers to appear "authentic." There is a sense that copying the aesthetics of a subculture attaches itself to the associations and implications of that design: like when Goth style made it into high fashion houses.

In a lot of high fashion houses, also, there is a certain amount of "consumer fodder." The type of pieces which drive revenue by being either lower-priced or more appealing to wider swaths of the population - like hoodies or branded clothing. The really high-end items are usually devoid of branding and have much more attention paid to the construction and style - designer dresses and suits, for example. So the co-opting of subculture items doesn't seem like quite the seismic shift to me.

Someone brought up Blundstones, and this is an example of something I see happen more commonly. Just an ordinary Australian work boot - it gets worn by some trendsetters and famous people, either as an alternative to Chelseas or for practicality - everyone starts wearing them as a trend.
 

dieworkwear

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I wonder if this isn't more to do with a lack of creativity currently, plus the (ironically) strong desire in modern customers to appear "authentic." There is a sense that copying the aesthetics of a subculture attaches itself to the associations and implications of that design: like when Goth style made it into high fashion houses.

In a lot of high fashion houses, also, there is a certain amount of "consumer fodder." The type of pieces which drive revenue by being either lower-priced or more appealing to wider swaths of the population - like hoodies or branded clothing. The really high-end items are usually devoid of branding and have much more attention paid to the construction and style - designer dresses and suits, for example. So the co-opting of subculture items doesn't seem like quite the seismic shift to me.

Someone brought up Blundstones, and this is an example of something I see happen more commonly. Just an ordinary Australian work boot - it gets worn by some trendsetters and famous people, either as an alternative to Chelseas or for practicality - everyone starts wearing them as a trend.
I don't have a problem with fashion appropriating. I was more trying to say that some of the things that give streetwear it's street credibility are the same things that people don't actually want in their community and neighboring ones. Actual street culture seems to be disappearing from urban areas, whether it's because underground culture gets mainstreamed too quickly, or maybe because of gentrification, or actual hostile policies such as anti-skateboarding architecture and targeted policing.
 

Wrenkin

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I don't have any rugbys, but my co-writer Pete at Put This On likes and wears them. He wrote a post about them once and recommended Land's End, LL Bean, J Crew, and Colombia Knit for budget/ value picks. If you have more money to spend, he also recommended Drake's, Rowing Blazers, Margaret Howell, and RRL. For vintage, LL Bean, Land's End, Colombia Knit, Patagonia, and Rugged Wear.
There’s also Barbarian. Similar to Columbia Knit, but Canadian.
 

Reginald Bartholomew

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I've got two Columbia Knits. I love them, and wear them frequently, but have some caveats. One is pattern inconsistency: both are in the same size, but with very different measurements: one is an inch and change larger in every dimension. I find with rugbies that doesn't matter too much, YMMV.

The other, more serious problem is that on one shirt the ribbed cuffs loosened to uselessness maybe a year into having it (the other shirt, which I've had longer and worn much more, has cuffs that remain tight and springy). Basically I can wear it like a long sleeve rugby for about an hour after it has been laundered, and then I have to start playing with the cuffs to get them to not be annoyingly loose.

But the collars are great: very beefy, no weird misshapeness.
 

Thin White Duke

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I wonder if this isn't more to do with a lack of creativity currently, plus the (ironically) strong desire in modern customers to appear "authentic." There is a sense that copying the aesthetics of a subculture attaches itself to the associations and implications of that design: like when Goth style made it into high fashion houses.

In a lot of high fashion houses, also, there is a certain amount of "consumer fodder." The type of pieces which drive revenue by being either lower-priced or more appealing to wider swaths of the population - like hoodies or branded clothing. The really high-end items are usually devoid of branding and have much more attention paid to the construction and style - designer dresses and suits, for example. So the co-opting of subculture items doesn't seem like quite the seismic shift to me.

Someone brought up Blundstones, and this is an example of something I see happen more commonly. Just an ordinary Australian work boot - it gets worn by some trendsetters and famous people, either as an alternative to Chelseas or for practicality - everyone starts wearing them as a trend.
Responding to your middle paragraph, a classic example is the Louis Vuitton branded stuff. My ex dropped a fortune on a handbag with the LVs all over it. Money she couldn’t really afford. The quality of the leather is like shitty cardboard but it did the job of advertising to her friends and co-workers how rich she is cos she can afford to drop big $$ on a handbag while LV gets its free advertising too. The top drawer stuff they sell isn’t branded at all. Same for Coach, Michael Kors, even Lauren et al.

And this may be a tangential point but regarding kids these days compared to when aa were a lad - as a teenager I was big into a band named The Jam. When I found out they were influenced by The Who, The Kinks, The Beatles, The Small Faces I followed the influences upstream to see what they sounded like and from there on to early r and b etc. My niece came to visit and she said she was into Green Day. I said a lot of their stuff sounds a bit like early Jam, Buzzcocks, Small Faces etc but she has ZERO curiosity about following the trend upstream. I guess the same goes for clothes. Younguns see something they like, they get it and aren’t too interested in the provenance or the historical subcultures that might have inspired that look, it’s just all immediate and present.
 

Chaconne

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How old is she? Sometimes it takes a while. Green Day is old to today’s kids and has quite a few records so just wading through that and realizing 20 year old music is a small but involving step. Trying to look into all the bands you threw at her at once might seem overwhelming since she is still probably also trying to stay current with today’s music. Not everyone becomes obsessive all at once like me, you and most people here who throw themselves deep into a hobby with abandon but they may explore upwards slowly.
 

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