• Hi, I'm the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted, and where you will find more and more great sales posted as Black Friday approacheds, HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

The Official Dieworkwear Appreciation Thread

FlyingHorker

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2014
Messages
2,606
Reaction score
2,215
of the two bals, i like the bigger bal
I'm making up a bullshit excuse to basically want both types of coats. The left one comes across as more contemporary, and with the details seems more like a topcoat. The far right seems more like an overcoat.

On the topic of overcoats, I like SEH Kelly's iteration on the Chesterfield, they recently increased the length and it looks much better. If only it was in a more casual fabric.

 

FlyingHorker

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2014
Messages
2,606
Reaction score
2,215
I've seen gorges across the board are getting lower again.
How do you feel about them?

I mostly dig it, but the pendulum seems to be moving pretty quick. It's very easy to get into horrible 90's suit territory.
 

CBrown85

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2009
Messages
5,935
Reaction score
1,809
How do you feel about them?

I mostly dig it, but the pendulum seems to be moving pretty quick. It's very easy to get into horrible 90's suit territory.
Yeah- I mean it wasn't the low gorge that looked bad- it was the low gorge in conjunction with overly bold, roped shoulders that looked a bit silly.
 

FlyingHorker

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2014
Messages
2,606
Reaction score
2,215
Yeah- I mean it wasn't the low gorge that looked bad- it was the low gorge in conjunction with overly bold, roped shoulders that looked a bit silly.
For sure. I've seen some S&M MTO jackets with a lower gorge, and I feel like the lapel cut needs to be changed to make it work compared to current higher gorges.


That's too low for me personally and I'd want a narrower lapel at the least.
 

CBrown85

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2009
Messages
5,935
Reaction score
1,809
Yeah- I feel like the lower lapel here gives the impression of narrow shoulders and more chest drape, which is good if that's what you're going for. I'm trying to draw attention away from the mid-section and up to the shoulders so I'd probably opt for something a little higher/wider here. Still, I think @Burzan looks good.
 

SimonC

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2007
Messages
2,193
Reaction score
1,594
Back to coats for a moment - just to put in a shout for Lopez Aragon MTO out of Spain; they do their Mainland model which is belted and raglan-sleeved. At the moment they are doing 30% off Marling & Evans cloths, which makes it €525 (less any taxes).

[
1604092681032.png
 

scurvyfreedman

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 5, 2010
Messages
1,740
Reaction score
1,277
On the subject of sweaters and textured sweaters in particular, I just got a custom Aran from O'Mallie's (a roll neck in oatmeal to custom dimensions). The intricacy of the hand knitting far surpasses the Aran I have from Inis Meain. But, the wool is a bit prickly and the lanolin is still in the wool to an extent. I'd definitely recommend it for someone who likes handwork and supporting a true cottage industry.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
18,688
Reaction score
44,064
I'm not sure what a car coat even is anymore. Is it just a general term for a coat of a certain length?
Car coat is a coat that's made so you can easily get in and out of cars. It's typically a 3/4ths length coat that's single-breasted.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
18,688
Reaction score
44,064
So wouldn't the average SB topcoat today really be a car coat?
The terminology for traditional men's coats isn't clearly defined. But broadly, I would say yes, that's true. Car coats came because long overcoats can be cumbersome when getting in and out of cars. Along with the trend for short jackets, I think many men don't like overly long coats for that same reason.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
18,688
Reaction score
44,064
Early "motoring" clothes at the turn of the 20th century. First plate is from a 1907 issue of Vanity Fair. "Moto" clothes used to be quite long. Some also repurposed leather flight jackets, which were the early version of leather motorcycle jackets. The gear became more serious and protective as motorsport speeds increased


tumblr_n21sbyHHcB1qa2j8co2_400.jpg



In 1915, Brooks Brothers' Madison Avenue store had an entire floor dedicated to "motor clothing." This was the second floor of 346 Madison Avenue.


tumblr_n21sbyHHcB1qa2j8co1_540.jpg

tumblr_mbqolnwNFk1rf1jvro1_1280.jpg
 

FlyingHorker

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2014
Messages
2,606
Reaction score
2,215
The terminology for traditional men's coats isn't clearly defined. But broadly, I would say yes, that's true. Car coats came because long overcoats can be cumbersome when getting in and out of cars. Along with the trend for short jackets, I think many men don't like overly long coats for that same reason.
Gotcha, that makes sense.

I noticed that after I bought a wool robe, excited for the length that would be near the bottom of my calf.

I didn't feel like the extra length kept me that much warmer, and the robe would splay out below the butt when seated, defeating the purpose. It also just felt restricting. Looks cool tho.

Hopefully just below the knee is a good enough compromise for my upcoming coat to not get in the way, but not lose the aesthetic balance of a longer coat.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

Most Interesting Fashion Collaboration of 2020

  • JW Anderson x Uniqlo

  • Nigo x Virgil Abloh

  • Converse x Midnight Studios

  • Rick Owens x Champion

  • Barbour x Engineered Garments

  • Adidas x Bed JW Ford

  • Jordan Brand x Dior

  • Billie Eilish x Takashi Murakami

  • Lego x Levi's


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
448,518
Messages
9,705,617
Members
202,626
Latest member
asaprestorationtx
Top