The Official Dieworkwear Appreciation Thread

[FlyingHorker]

of the two bals, i like the bigger bal

I'm making up a bullshit excuse to basically want both types of coats. The left one comes across as more contemporary, and with the details seems more like a topcoat. The far right seems more like an overcoat.

On the topic of overcoats, I like SEH Kelly's iteration on the Chesterfield, they recently increased the length and it looks much better. If only it was in a more casual fabric.

 

[CBrown85]

I've seen gorges across the board are getting lower again.

 

[FlyingHorker]

I've seen gorges across the board are getting lower again.

How do you feel about them?

I mostly dig it, but the pendulum seems to be moving pretty quick. It's very easy to get into horrible 90's suit territory.

 

[CBrown85]

How do you feel about them?

I mostly dig it, but the pendulum seems to be moving pretty quick. It's very easy to get into horrible 90's suit territory.

Yeah- I mean it wasn't the low gorge that looked bad- it was the low gorge in conjunction with overly bold, roped shoulders that looked a bit silly.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Yeah- I mean it wasn't the low gorge that looked bad- it was the low gorge in conjunction with overly bold, roped shoulders that looked a bit silly.

For sure. I've seen some S&M MTO jackets with a lower gorge, and I feel like the lapel cut needs to be changed to make it work compared to current higher gorges.



That's too low for me personally and I'd want a narrower lapel at the least.

 

[CBrown85]

Yeah- I feel like the lower lapel here gives the impression of narrow shoulders and more chest drape, which is good if that's what you're going for. I'm trying to draw attention away from the mid-section and up to the shoulders so I'd probably opt for something a little higher/wider here. Still, I think @Burzan looks good.

 

[SimonC]

Back to coats for a moment - just to put in a shout for Lopez Aragon MTO out of Spain; they do their Mainland model which is belted and raglan-sleeved. At the moment they are doing 30% off Marling & Evans cloths, which makes it €525 (less any taxes).

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[tgaith77]

I don't like...raglan sleeves.

Is it still a Balmacaan? Car coat?

 

[scurvyfreedman]

On the subject of sweaters and textured sweaters in particular, I just got a custom Aran from O'Mallie's (a roll neck in oatmeal to custom dimensions). The intricacy of the hand knitting far surpasses the Aran I have from Inis Meain. But, the wool is a bit prickly and the lanolin is still in the wool to an extent. I'd definitely recommend it for someone who likes handwork and supporting a true cottage industry.

 

[FlyingHorker]

I don't like...raglan sleeves.

Is it still a Balmacaan? Car coat?

I'm not sure what a car coat even is anymore. Is it just a general term for a coat of a certain length?

 

[dieworkwear]

I'm not sure what a car coat even is anymore. Is it just a general term for a coat of a certain length?

Car coat is a coat that's made so you can easily get in and out of cars. It's typically a 3/4ths length coat that's single-breasted.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Car coat is a coat that's made so you can easily get in and out of cars. It's typically a 3/4ths length coat that's single-breasted.

So wouldn't the average SB topcoat today really be a car coat?

 

[dieworkwear]

So wouldn't the average SB topcoat today really be a car coat?

The terminology for traditional men's coats isn't clearly defined. But broadly, I would say yes, that's true. Car coats came because long overcoats can be cumbersome when getting in and out of cars. Along with the trend for short jackets, I think many men don't like overly long coats for that same reason.

 

[dieworkwear]

Early "motoring" clothes at the turn of the 20th century. First plate is from a 1907 issue of Vanity Fair. "Moto" clothes used to be quite long. Some also repurposed leather flight jackets, which were the early version of leather motorcycle jackets. The gear became more serious and protective as motorsport speeds increased

In 1915, Brooks Brothers' Madison Avenue store had an entire floor dedicated to "motor clothing." This was the second floor of 346 Madison Avenue.

 

[FlyingHorker]

The terminology for traditional men's coats isn't clearly defined. But broadly, I would say yes, that's true. Car coats came because long overcoats can be cumbersome when getting in and out of cars. Along with the trend for short jackets, I think many men don't like overly long coats for that same reason.

Gotcha, that makes sense.

I noticed that after I bought a wool robe, excited for the length that would be near the bottom of my calf.

I didn't feel like the extra length kept me that much warmer, and the robe would splay out below the butt when seated, defeating the purpose. It also just felt restricting. Looks cool tho.

Hopefully just below the knee is a good enough compromise for my upcoming coat to not get in the way, but not lose the aesthetic balance of a longer coat.