The Official Dieworkwear Appreciation Thread

[FlyingHorker]

I rather like the look of patchwork jackets and coats, but they're ludicrously expensive.

Blue Blue Japan and Ralph Lauren seem to have the best looking ones.

 

[asaa1000]

@dieworkwear Can you tell a bit more about Joyce International? First time hearing of this brand, and it looks fantastic!

 

[dieworkwear]

@dieworkwear Can you tell a bit more about Joyce International? First time hearing of this brand, and it looks fantastic!

Sure, it's run by a couple that now lives in Italy, but the boyfriend used to live in NYC. They source fabric from jobbers and then have things made in Italy. The construction quality is just OK. I've bought about four things from them so far (a jacket, a shirt, and two pairs of shorts). The shirt is made from rayon, so it's a bit slippery. As a result, the sewing isn't as clean. The interior of the garments could also be finished better.

But I like the soft color palettes they use every season. They also present their clothes well online. A rundown of some of the items:

M001 Shirt: This is a base pattern they use for their camp collar shirts. They do them every season in different fabrics. The cut is a bit short and it has dropped shoulder seams. How much you like it is going to depend on how much you like that shorter-than-usual camp collar shirt cut and the fabric they used for any specific model.

M005 Oversized Shirt: Another base model. This is basically an oversized dress shirt. I bought one and returned it, as I found it challenging to wear (someone else may be able to pull it off). If I remember correctly, the shoulder seams are even more dropped on this one. When I was trying this on, I thought it was easier to wear as an overshirt, rather than buttoned up as you see here.

M009 Chore Jacket: I haven't tried this, but it looks like a shorter version of a chore coat. Seems like a halfway point between the M001 and M005.

M016 Shorts: My favorite thing in their collection. The shorts are big and baggy. They form a slight A-shaped silhouette. They're sort of like Patagonia 5" Baggies, but in made in more "refined" materials. The waistband has a long drawcord, which I think looks good either tied or worn loose. The waistband is made with a very wide and easily stretchable band. I bought a few elasticated shorts this season, and most are made with tighter waistbands. This one feels very soft. I don't know how it'll hold up over time, but I've been enjoying it.

This season, they made shorts in a rayon-viscose blend that I think is just fantastic. When I read the details online, I thought maybe the fabric might be too lightweight. But it's actually just fine for shorts (rayon-viscose ones are pictured above). After that, I bought a pair of their linen-hemp shorts (pictured below). That one is OK. I like them better than my other shorts, but it doesn't feel as airy and soft as the rayon-viscose ones. Being cream, it also shows dirt a bit more easily. But I do really like them. I'm hoping they do these shorts again next year in different materials.

Note, sizing is in alpha. I'm a size 30 waist and wear the size small here.

As a small brand, I think Joyce is hemmed up by all the other issues that challenge small brands. They're limited by what kind of fabrics they can find each season. I think it may also be a challenge to get the cuts and proportions right, which may be the reason why the shirt jacket is challenging to wear. If you're looking for top-end construction, you may be let down by some of the details -- the less-than-straight stitching on slippery rayon shirts, the messy interiors, and sometimes the interior garment tags, which can look like the things only seen in sample garments. In terms of construction, some of these clothes don't feel that much different from what you see on high street.

But they make cool looking things that you can wear in warmer climates. Even their fall/ winter collections are basically made for the kind of fall/ winter weather you have in Los Angeles. I generally like the brand's vibe -- there's something very easy and cool about it. Relative to the rest of the fashion market, the prices are also somewhat more affordable too.

 

[asaa1000]

Sure, it's run by a couple that now lives in Italy, but the boyfriend used to live in NYC. They source fabric from jobbers and then have things made in Italy. The construction quality is just OK. I've bought about four things from them so far (a jacket, a shirt, and two pairs of shorts). The shirt is made from rayon, so it's a bit slippery. As a result, the sewing isn't as clean. The interior of the garments could also be finished better.

But I like the soft color palettes they use every season. They also present their clothes well online. A rundown of some of the items:

View attachment 1430875

M001 Shirt: This is a base pattern they use for their camp collar shirts. They do them every season in different fabrics. The cut is a bit short and it has dropped shoulder seams. How much you like it is going to depend on how much you like that shorter-than-usual camp collar shirt cut and the fabric they used for any specific model.

View attachment 1430876

M005 Oversized Shirt: Another base model. This is basically an oversized dress shirt. I bought one and returned it, as I found it challenging to wear (someone else may be able to pull it off). If I remember correctly, the shoulder seams are even more dropped on this one. When I was trying this on, I thought it was easier to wear as an overshirt, rather than buttoned up as you see here.

View attachment 1430881

M009 Chore Jacket: I haven't tried this, but it looks like a shorter version of a chore coat. Seems like a halfway point between the M001 and M005.

View attachment 1430882

M016 Shorts: My favorite thing in their collection. The shorts are big and baggy. They form a slight A-shaped silhouette. They're sort of like Patagonia 5" Baggies, but in made in more "refined" materials. The waistband has a long drawcord, which I think looks good either tied or worn loose. The waistband is made with a very wide and easily stretchable band. I bought a few elasticated shorts this season, and most are made with tighter waistbands. This one feels very soft. I don't know how it'll hold up over time, but I've been enjoying it.

This season, they made shorts in a rayon-viscose blend that I think is just fantastic. When I read the details online, I thought maybe the fabric might be too lightweight. But it's actually just fine for shorts (rayon-viscose ones are pictured above). After that, I bought a pair of their linen-hemp shorts (pictured below). That one is OK. I like them better than my other shorts, but it doesn't feel as airy and soft as the rayon-viscose ones. Being cream, it also shows dirt a bit more easily. But I do really like them. I'm hoping they do these shorts again next year in different materials.

Note, sizing is in alpha. I'm a size 30 waist and wear the size small here.


View attachment 1430883

As a small brand, I think Joyce is hemmed up by all the other issues that challenge small brands. They're limited by what kind of fabrics they can find each season. I think it may also be a challenge to get the cuts and proportions right, which may be the reason why the shirt jacket is challenging to wear. If you're looking for top-end construction, you may be let down by some of the details -- the less-than-straight stitching on slippery rayon shirts, the messy interiors, and sometimes the interior garment tags, which can look like the things only seen in sample garments. In terms of construction, some of these clothes don't feel that much different from what you see on high street.

But they make cool looking things that you can wear in warmer climates. Even their fall/ winter collections are basically made for the kind of fall/ winter weather you have in Los Angeles. I generally like the brand's vibe -- there's something very easy and cool about it. Relative to the rest of the fashion market, the prices are also somewhat more affordable too.

Really appreciate the insightful answer - I felt Joyce looked like a more boxy styled version of De Bonne Facture, but in hindsight, a lot was assumed from the superb photography...

 

[FlyingHorker]

I did finally get those Ghurka shorts from J. Peterman, and they have an A-silhouette. Huge legs and double reverse pleats.

Make ****** and hips look gigantic. My tailor even commented saying they look like a skirt.

 

[Thin White Duke]

I did finally get those Ghurka shorts from J. Peterman, and they have an A-silhouette. Huge legs and double reverse pleats.

Make ****** and hips look gigantic. My tailor even commented saying they look like a skirt.

And you couldn’t tell that from the pics in their ads? ?

They are a favourite on SF and among people who like Drakes gear etc but I can’t buy in to them, they look like cosplay to me, and as you say, I can’t imagine what sort of shape one must be to make them appear to be flattering. Slim people are gonna get lost in them and people carrying a bit extra timber are just gonna looks more bulbous.

 

[FlyingHorker]

And you couldn’t tell that from the pics in their ads? ?

They are a favourite on SF and among people who like Drakes gear etc but I can’t buy in to them, they look like cosplay to me, and as you say, I can’t imagine what sort of shape one must be to make them appear to be flattering. Slim people are gonna get lost in them and people carrying a bit extra timber are just gonna looks more bulbous.

They looked normal-ish compared to the other ghurka shorts I found, the pictures were actually pretty good. CS even confirmed the leg size opening in my head.

In my head, I thought "These will look like shorts with interesting details, and amplify a summer outfit."

Since I can't leave well enough alone, tailor is recutting them to my liking. Taking in the waist, the hem, and tapering the leg.

 

[Thin White Duke]

They looked normal-ish compared to the other ghurka shorts I found, the pictures were actually pretty good. CS even confirmed the leg size opening in my head.

In my head, I thought "These will look like shorts with interesting details, and amplify a summer outfit."

Since I can't leave well enough alone, tailor is recutting them to my liking. Taking in the waist, the hem, and tapering the leg.

? Is that all?

This is becoming a bit like the story of the fella who boasted of his axe that had lasted thirty years - he only had the blade replaced twice and the handle replaced three times!
(I know, I know - sometimes you‘ve got to do what you’ve got to do to get things right!)

 

[FLW]

@dieworkwear Thanks for the bandana rec. I've been looking for a green bandana with a traditional print but in something other than stiff cotton for a long time. I missed out on the green and white, but I will happily take the green and black in its place.

 

[dieworkwear]

@dieworkwear Thanks for the bandana rec. I've been looking for a green bandana with a traditional print but in something other than stiff cotton for a long time. I missed out on the green and white, but I will happily take the green and black in its place.

Happy that tip was useful!

FWIW, she restocks every couple of days. If you message her, I'm sure she'd be willing to swap it out, if you have a strong preference.

 

[FlyingHorker]

? Is that all?

This is becoming a bit like the story of the fella who boasted of his axe that had lasted thirty years - he only had the blade replaced twice and the handle replaced three times!
(I know, I know - sometimes you‘ve got to do what you’ve got to do to get things right!)

I hope so!

 

[Luigi_M]

I'm not sure a Gurkha short would look fine on anyone who's not an actual Gurkha (and even then, only because they are such tough and proud men that it's what they wear to be flattered by the wearer and not viceversa as usual)

 

[Journeyman]

I think PG was the first poster whose style I specifically wanted to emulate. I went to one of his “MBT” tailors in HK based on a hush-hush tip from another poster, and it made me feel like quite the insider. (thanks for that M - still have the shirt?)

Unfortunately he got pissed off that people imitated his style and his secret tailors kept getting leaked, I’m not sure if that’s why he quit the forum but it sure ticked him off.

I thought it was pretty well established PG’s suits were by P Johnson, and he stopped posting as he got a new gig with a biz caz dress code and had no need to get suited up any longer?

PG did get irritated by some people going to the same HK tailor and basically commissioning the exact same jacket as him.

I think that the main reason he stopped posting on SF was that he became really enthusiastic about cycling and so swapped one hobby for another. Rather than posting pictures of suits or business-casual clothes, PG's social media became filled with road bikes and Rapha cycling accessories.

 

[Gus]

PG did get irritated by some people going to the same HK tailor and basically commissioning the exact same jacket as him.

I think that the main reason he stopped posting on SF was that he became really enthusiastic about cycling and so swapped one hobby for another. Rather than posting pictures of suits or business-casual clothes, PG's social media became filled with road bikes and Rapha cycling accessories.

That and a girlfriend coming into his life who later became his wife IIRC combined with "no suits at work".

 

[troika]

Sup @UrbanComposition @eddiemczee