The Official Classic Men's Coats Thread

[comrade]

Today, full outfit here.
View attachment 1740320

The second coat reminds me of the cut favored by East Bloc leadership during
the (last) Cold War with big lapels and very square shoulders.

h big

 

[Menswear2021]

?

I couldn't resist this coat I found and ordered it. I already have two Bals, but my main winter one is very flashy. Seller claimed it is from the '40s or '50s.

I wanted one for days where I blend into the background, and this fit the bill. No idea on warmth, but I'm sure I could layer up heavily underneath. That mottled charcoal texture is one I haven't seen before and it sang to me.

It reminds me of some of the coats in this illustration

 

[FlyingHorker]

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Not a fan eh?

It's a dark, marbled, dusty looking old sack. Exactly what I need.

 

[sipang]

That's the fun thing with vintage coats, unusual patterns and textures (and exotically named fabric blends). Good chance it'll be plenty warm on its own if it's that old, at a glance it looks more 50s/60s than 40s but I'm no expert.

 

[FlyingHorker]

That's the fun thing with vintage coats, unusual patterns and textures (and exotically named fabric blends). Good chance it'll be plenty warm on its own if it's that old, at a glance it looks more 50s/60s than 40s but I'm no expert.

Yeah I'm no expert either, no idea on the age.

This really does seem like a category of clothing where they literally 'don't make them like they used to'.

I found two other interesting looking coats. The checked raglan reminds me of my own modern coat, and the double breasted one reminds me of DBF's Grandad coat.

Men's Ventanni Grey Black Glen Checked New Wool Coat | Etsy Canada

Vintage Mans Tweed Double Breasted Multi Blue Wool Cape Styled | Etsy Canada

 

[dieworkwear]

First one is pretty cool. Someone into SWD fits should buy that. I think it could look great with some SWD type of looks.

 

[monkey66]

The second coat reminds me of the cut favored by East Bloc leadership during
the (last) Cold War with big lapels and very square shoulders.


View attachment 1740786 h big

Yup, it has that vibe. It is also RAF blue. No belt and rolled labels give it some softness.

It is Christian Dior Monsieur, made in England, probably by Crombie. If I had to guess I would say 1980's.

The cloth and build are really nice quality.

 

[comrade]

First one is pretty cool. Someone into SWD fits should buy that. I think it could look great with some SWD type of looks.

What are SWD looks?

 

[dieworkwear]

How do people feel about darted vs undarted polo coats?

For example, some darted polo coats:

And some undarted polo coats:

 

[driving glove]

Undarted for me, closer to a wrap coat, more casual and sporty.

 

[dieworkwear]

I really like the shaping in Dr. Churchwell's overcoats. These were made by Len Logsdail. The chest has a very nice, rounded shape that you don't often (if ever) see in off-the-rack overcoats.

Perhaps a question for @Nytailor: are darts necessary for this sort of shaping? Is the chest built using canvas and ironwork, and then accentuated through the use of darts? (Can't tell if the first has darts, although the second looks like it does).

 

[FlyingHorker]

Initially I was going to say undarted without question, the fabric begs for a clean front.

Though comparing these two relatively similiar coats, I couldn't tell much difference. If you told me the first coat was undarted, I'd believe you, unless I looked really close.

 

[driving glove]

To my manner of thinking, the soft texture of the fabric in a polo coat approximates the Melton wool used for a duffel coat or a pea coat and calls for less “smartly-tailored” styling, in the same way that “off-the-rack jeans“ work better than tailored denim pants.
Besides, with the current trend of casualizing the CM look, a less-structured coat will go better without a suit under it, so will likely get more use for most of us.
None of the undarted examples clash with a jacket and tie under them, however, if you want to use an undarted coat more formally. Just think it doesn’t work as well the other way.

 

[bjhofkin]

How do people feel about darted vs undarted polo coats?

For example, some darted polo coats:

View attachment 1742348 View attachment 1742343 View attachment 1742344 View attachment 1742355




And some undarted polo coats:

View attachment 1742335 View attachment 1742336 View attachment 1742337 View attachment 1742340 View attachment 1742345 View attachment 1742341

I don't think it's some huge deal, but for sure undarted (for the reasons already mentioned).

 

[driving glove]

Oxfords versus derbies?