The Official Classic Men's Coats Thread

[Calanon]

Looking to get some feedback and second opinions on this overcoat. This is my first foray into the world of longer coats. It's made from a Magee tweed (the same one used for last year's Ring Jacket raglan coat).

I had the coat hemmed by about 4 or 5 inches, because with the original length the coat was brushing against my shins and calves, and thought I might be entering old man territory. Also had it taken in slightly in the body, as it was very roomy.

Thoughts?

It looks good - that length is good, I personally wouldn't have had it taken in since it's meant to be roomy, but it doesn't look like it was taken in by too much which is good.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

Looking to get some feedback and second opinions on this overcoat. This is my first foray into the world of longer coats. It's made from a Magee tweed (the same one used for last year's Ring Jacket raglan coat).

I had the coat hemmed by about 4 or 5 inches, because with the original length, the coat was brushing against my shins and calves, and thought I might be entering old man territory. Also had it taken in slightly in the body, as it was very roomy.

Thoughts?

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Looks very good. Where did you get it from?

 

[inTROYspection]

Looks very good. Where did you get it from?

Got it online from a shop in Germany called John Crocket. It was on 60% clearance during the summer, so I decided to take a chance.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Looks perfect, wouldn't change a thing.

 

[AVG]

Dear all,

I am writing to you because I am starting to plan a new project: a double-breasted bespoke coat, and I would like to have some feedback from you.

Regarding fabric, although originally I was planning to use a cloth of over 600gr, I will most probably opt for a dark blue wool of 550g from the bunch Zeus of Scabal. Does anyone have personal experience on it? I'm looking for durability and very good drape.

The length it's also sort of clear, roughly a spam long below the knees. In relationship with some other specific details instead I'm still deciding, so any feedback or suggestion on this regard will be more than helpful:

- For the sleeves, I don't know yet if to go with raglan or with a soft shoulder instead (my tailor advised me to go for the second, but I don't know if it is because raglan is more difficult to mount or just because the second is more "sartorial").

- For the back I'm also in doubt but I will decide that depending on if I do it belted or with martingala. Belted seems more beautiful to me for shaping it around the waist. On the other hand tough, having to belt it all the time is a little bit sort of a pain.

- Regarding button configuration I'm also in doubt (ideally none, but again this is again not very "confortable" on daily basis, so maybe something like what is on the second pict will be a better option).

Since as you may realized the project is still not very well defined, I will take advantage of the message for posting some images that I like quite a lot as reference of the style I'm looking for, just in case it may help while commenting.

Thank you very much for your help.

With best wishes,

A.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

Dear all,

I am writing to you because I am starting to plan a new project: a double-breasted bespoke coat, and I would like to have some feedback from you.

Regarding fabric, although originally I was planning to use a cloth of over 600gr, I will most probably opt for a dark blue wool of 550g from the bunch Zeus of Scabal. Does anyone have personal experience on it? I'm looking for durability and very good drape.

The length it's also sort of clear, roughly a spam long below the knees. In relationship with some other specific details instead I'm still deciding, so any feedback or suggestion on this regard will be more than helpful:

- For the sleeves, I don't know yet if to go with raglan or with a soft shoulder instead (my tailor advised me to go for the second, but I don't know if it is because raglan is more difficult to mount or just because the second is more "sartorial").

- For the back I'm also in doubt but I will decide that depending on if I do it belted or with martingala. Belted seems more beautiful to me for shaping it around the waist. On the other hand tough, having to belt it all the time is a little bit sort of a pain.

- Regarding button configuration I'm also in doubt (ideally none, but again this is again not very "confortable" on daily basis, so maybe something like what is on the second pict will be a better option).

Since as you may realized the project is still not very well defined, I will take advantage of the message for posting some images that I like quite a lot as reference of the style I'm looking for, just in case it may help while commenting.

Thank you very much for your help.

With best wishes,

A.

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There are probably better threads for discussing this. That being said...

1) Unless you are in a pretty moderate climate, I would go for a much heavier cloth. You'll get more warmth and better drape. I also just find there to be something very satisfying about heavier cloth.

2) Raglan on a db would be kind of weird. Yes, I recently posted a picture of a db balmacaan-style coat that I thought looked good, but I assume you aren't talking about a balmacaan-style coat. I also would stick to what your tailor has done before. New designs may not turn out as desired.

3) Half belt>>>>belt. Belts look a lot better in pics than real life, IMO. They can also really emphasize your posterior and create a very undesirable silhouette.

 

[FlyingHorker]

There are probably better threads for discussing this. That being said...

1) Unless you are in a pretty moderate climate, I would go for a much heavier cloth. You'll get more warmth and better drape. I also just find there to be something very satisfying about heavier cloth.

2) Raglan on a db would be kind of weird. Yes, I recently posted a picture of a db balmacaan-style coat that I thought looked good, but I assume you aren't talking about a balmacaan-style coat. I also would stick to what your tailor has done before. New designs may not turn out as desired.

3) Half belt>>>>belt. Belts look a lot better in pics than real life, IMO. They can also really emphasize your posterior and create a very undesirable silhouette.

I agree on point 1.

On the fence about number 2.


I do agree that it's best to stick with what your tailor has done before.

You know I'll fight on number 3. Full belts look great on very full coats. I wouldn't get one on a slim coat. Half belt is generally a safe option on all coats.

I'd advise @AVG to figure out exactly what kind of shoulder he wants: raglan or set-in, because this creates the basis for the entire coat IMO.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

I agree on point 1.

On the fence about number 2.


I do agree that it's best to stick with what your tailor has done before.

You know I'll fight on number 3. Full belts look great on very full coats. I wouldn't get one on a slim coat. Half belt is generally a safe option on all coats.

I'd advise @AVG to figure out exactly what kind of shoulder he wants: raglan or set-in, because this creates the basis for the entire coat IMO.

Honestly, I think the coat you posted would look better with regular shoulders/sleeves. Though it is easy to get distracted by the fabric...

Regarding belts, they are definitely better on certain body types than others.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Honestly, I think the coat you posted would look better with regular shoulders/sleeves. Though it is easy to get distracted by the fabric...

Regarding belts, they are definitely better on certain body types than others.

Yeah I can see that, it's pretty much the standard polo coat configuration nowadays, minus the shoulders. If one likes the slouchy look, I think it's great.

Hmm, which body types would they work better on? In my experience, the silhouette of the coat matters most. I mentioned it works great on a very full/big coat, but I think the skirt shouldn't be much fuller than the upper body.

I had a traditional belted trench coat with a veery full skirt. It was a very feminine silhouette on me with a belt and I wasn't a fan of it.

 

[dieworkwear]

Dear all,

I am writing to you because I am starting to plan a new project: a double-breasted bespoke coat, and I would like to have some feedback from you.

Regarding fabric, although originally I was planning to use a cloth of over 600gr, I will most probably opt for a dark blue wool of 550g from the bunch Zeus of Scabal. Does anyone have personal experience on it? I'm looking for durability and very good drape.

The length it's also sort of clear, roughly a spam long below the knees. In relationship with some other specific details instead I'm still deciding, so any feedback or suggestion on this regard will be more than helpful:

- For the sleeves, I don't know yet if to go with raglan or with a soft shoulder instead (my tailor advised me to go for the second, but I don't know if it is because raglan is more difficult to mount or just because the second is more "sartorial").

- For the back I'm also in doubt but I will decide that depending on if I do it belted or with martingala. Belted seems more beautiful to me for shaping it around the waist. On the other hand tough, having to belt it all the time is a little bit sort of a pain.

- Regarding button configuration I'm also in doubt (ideally none, but again this is again not very "confortable" on daily basis, so maybe something like what is on the second pict will be a better option).

Since as you may realized the project is still not very well defined, I will take advantage of the message for posting some images that I like quite a lot as reference of the style I'm looking for, just in case it may help while commenting.

Thank you very much for your help.

With best wishes,

A.

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Personally would start with how you want to wear the coat, what you plan to wear it with, and where will you wear it. Is this something you'll wear over suits? Casualwear? Nighttime? Daytime? To a formal office? To a casual office? These things will be better in helping you determine the design of the coat.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

Yeah I can see that, it's pretty much the standard polo coat configuration nowadays, minus the shoulders. If one likes the slouchy look, I think it's great.

Hmm, which body types would they work better on? In my experience, the silhouette of the coat matters most. I mentioned it works great on a very full/big coat, but I think the skirt shouldn't be much fuller than the upper body.

I had a traditional belted trench coat with a veery full skirt. It was a very feminine silhouette on me with a belt and I wasn't a fan of it.

Slimmer, straighter body types.

That's often the problem with belted coats. The best solution is to not cinch the belt so much so that it doesn't add shape, but then it doesn't add shape and most people like the belts for the shape they give.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Slimmer, straighter body types.

That's often the problem with belted coats. The best solution is to not cinch the belt so much so that it doesn't add shape, but then it doesn't add shape and most people like the belts for the shape they give.

True, I've seen this issue pop up on others.

One other bonus about a full belt is that it can help break up a vast expanse of fabric. This is especially nice for coats with hidden buttons that just look like a vast swathe of cloth. Loosely tying a belt can help a lot with that.

 

[dieworkwear]

 

[dieworkwear]

 

[AVG]

Thank you very much for all your replies. My apologies if this was not the proper place to post my question.

@dieworkwear The usage of the coat will be mainly causal. Ideally, something versatile enough that you can use it either with jeans and sneakers during the weekend, or with tailored trousers and more formal boots to go to the office from time to time.

@FlyingHorker after reading yours and other people suggestions I've decided that the best will probably be to go with the set-in sleeves (I really like the nonchalant vibe that the raglan gives, but I already have two raglan coats and it would be a pity not to take advantage of the natural set-in sleeves that, for what I saw, this tailor do so well).

For practicality I also think that half belt may be a better option (more formal perhaps than the full belted/no belt alternatives, but at least I will not have to care of belting it every time).

The current idea would be something similar to the pictures below (I'm including one previously posted).

Two questions would be: i) for what do really people use the breast pocket (removing it would be a bad move?), and ii) if a longer cuff size would be better.

Hoping to hear from you. Best wishes,

AVG