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The Official Classic Men's Coats Thread

Moostyle

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I know you like that silhouette, and maybe it's just a matter of body type (I'm a 5'8", 160#) – but I really just look like a human tepee in coats like that.
I think it's just an awful, ill-fitting look and more suited to people hiding excess weight problems. Such baggy and formless coats will never look as good on the average man as sharp and form-fitting overcoats. The models look like kids in adults clothing, ugh.
 

driving glove

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I see it as different coats for different circumstances. I can appreciate a sleekly-tailored topcoat for dressy occasions. For the “morning after”, when I want to shamble out for ibuprofen in dark sunglasses, the comfort of a shaggy tweed “duvet-with-buttons”, would be what I would reach for to start the first hesitant steps in my walk of shame.
 

Moostyle

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I see it as different coats for different circumstances. I can appreciate a sleekly-tailored topcoat for dressy occasions. For the “morning after”, when I want to shamble out for ibuprofen in dark sunglasses, the comfort of a shaggy tweed “duvet-with-buttons”, would be what I would reach for to start the first hesitant steps in my walk of shame.
The thing is (and gain this is of course all my opinion) the coat is not even baggy, it is a ridiculous and exaggerated baggy clearly geared, like many such impractical and ecdentric fashion pieces, for people wanting to make a statement. If someone buys a coat like this then they are not just looking for something with a 'relaxed fit' for the morning after, they are actively looking for something bordering on outlandish. It's almost like the modern male equivalent of a victorian dress and imo just looks ridicuous.
 

driving glove

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Let’s bear in mind those photos are taken of the coats unbuttoned therefore as loose as they can get.
For interest’s sake, how do you feel about De Bonne Facture’s “GrandDad” coat. It has lots of volume.
Full disclosure: I am one, and own it and love it?
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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The thing is (and gain this is of course all my opinion) the coat is not even baggy, it is a ridiculous and exaggerated baggy clearly geared, like many such impractical and ecdentric fashion pieces, for people wanting to make a statement. If someone buys a coat like this then they are not just looking for something with a 'relaxed fit' for the morning after, they are actively looking for something bordering on outlandish. It's almost like the modern male equivalent of a victorian dress and imo just looks ridicuous.
Can you share some photos of overcoats you like?
 

Moostyle

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Let’s bear in mind those photos are taken of the coats unbuttoned therefore as loose as they can get.
For interest’s sake, how do you feel about De Bonne Facture’s “GrandDad” coat. It has lots of volume.
Full disclosure: I am one, and own it and love it?
Horses for courses and all that, but I think that even taking into account that they unbuttoned they are exaggeratedly baggy and loose-fitting.

I just googled the De Bonne Granddad coat and they look significantly slimmer in silhouette, which considering they are also comparatively loose-fitting coats (vs the average cuts), highlights how baggy those above are!

PS. There is zero intent to start conflict, I just saw those photos as I like browsing this thread and they really made me do a double take and I had to give my thoughts. I hope we are all adult enough not to give a rats poop if someone doesn't like what we like, variety is the spice of life and all that. :D
 

Stylewords

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I see it as different coats for different circumstances. I can appreciate a sleekly-tailored topcoat for dressy occasions. For the “morning after”, when I want to shamble out for ibuprofen in dark sunglasses, the comfort of a shaggy tweed “duvet-with-buttons”, would be what I would reach for to start the first hesitant steps in my walk of shame.
Wow, a special coat for hangovers. Great excuse for extending my collection.
 

Stylewords

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Horses for courses and all that, but I think that even taking into account that they unbuttoned they are exaggeratedly baggy and loose-fitting.

I just googled the De Bonne Granddad coat and they look significantly slimmer in silhouette, which considering they are also comparatively loose-fitting coats (vs the average cuts), highlights how baggy those above are!

PS. There is zero intent to start conflict, I just saw those photos as I like browsing this thread and they really made me do a double take and I had to give my thoughts. I hope we are all adult enough not to give a rats poop if someone doesn't like what we like, variety is the spice of life and all that. :D
Totally agree. They look comically oversized. Maybe fine for making a statement in a fashion show, but not for real life.
 

garigo

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How would you button a coat like the Drake's one from the current season? Do you think it would be okay to leave undone the button at the top, while buttoning the middle and bottom ones, like in the second picture here? Or would that look off somehow?

I'm asking because that seems to convey more of the characteristic fullness and relaxed shape that has been discussed in the last couple of pages.

dr2a1t-21890-01-250-7.jpg
tumblr_lz6hup8iFl1rpqfmno1_640.jpeg
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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How would you button a coat like the Drake's one from the current season? Do you think it would be okay to leave undone the button at the top, while buttoning the middle and bottom ones, like in the second picture here? Or would that look off somehow?

I'm asking because that seems to convey more of the characteristic fullness and relaxed shape that has been discussed in the last couple of pages.

View attachment 1744121 View attachment 1744122
The Duke's coat just looks oversized to me, but I've posted that photo here in the past to illustrate the lower buttoning stance (which, to my understanding, is sometimes called a "walker coat" for reasons I don't understand).

I think DB coats can be worn buttoned or unbuttoned. IMO, single-breasted coats often look better when they're worn open, but DBs can go either way. However, when wearing it open, it can be good to sweep the coat back by putting your hand in your pocket. Sometimes the front can get unwieldy when worn open.

When buttoning a DB overcoat, I always fasten at the buttoning point only and leave other buttons unfastened. And of course the anchor button.

I like a lot of full coats. Lemaire is a perfect example of how to do these silhouettes well. They have drama and presence, but these are not the kind of outfits discussed on this side of the board.



FJ_v6tqVkAQD0Hn.jpeg
FJlAT-0VUAIe44V.jpeg
EqjO0CXVoAA25BP.jpeg
Ec3m_DmUcAA9B1G.jpeg
 

garigo

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The Duke's coat just looks oversized to me, but I've posted that photo here in the past to illustrate the lower buttoning stance (which, to my understanding, is sometimes called a "walker coat" for reasons I don't understand).

I think DB coats can be worn buttoned or unbuttoned. IMO, single-breasted coats often look better when they're worn open, but DBs can go either way. However, when wearing it open, it can be good to sweep the coat back by putting your hand in your pocket. Sometimes the front can get unwieldy when worn open.

When buttoning a DB overcoat, I always fasten at the buttoning point only and leave other buttons unfastened. And of course the anchor button.

I like a lot of full coats. Lemaire is a perfect example of how to do these silhouettes well. They have drama and presence, but these are not the kind of outfits discussed on this side of the board.



View attachment 1744131 View attachment 1744132 View attachment 1744133 View attachment 1744134
Thanks, that’s helpful! To be clear, how do you define exactly the buttoning point? Is it the uppermost button that you can actually fasten? What about the anchor button?
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Thanks, that’s helpful! To be clear, how do you define exactly the buttoning point? Is it the uppermost button that you can actually fasten? What about the anchor button?
The buttoning point is typically the button that's closest to your natural waist, which is the narrowest part of your torso. On a one-button coat, it's the only button. On a two-button coat, it's the top button. On a three-button coat, it's the center button.

You can expand this logic out for DBs. On a DB coat with only two buttons, it would of course by the single row. On a DB with two rows of buttons, it would be the top row. On a DB with three rows of buttons, the buttoning point would be the center row.

The buttoning point serves as the fulcrum of a coat.

However, the buttoning point is not always at the natural waist. As you can see on the Duke's coat, the buttoning point has been lowered a little. His natural waist is between the center and top rows.

DB coats are made with an "anchor button," which is the internal button you fasten to secure the coat from swinging out. The button is hidden inside the coat and secured to the buttonhole that rests behind the other flap of fabric. Hard to describe online, but intuitive when you wear a DB.
 

tamimasa

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I've got a better pic with a better stance. I think I should just shorten the sleeves for sure... Still on the edge about the waist, though. Suppress more? :paranoia:

TFDBOC.jpg
 

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