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The Official Classic Men's Coats Thread

bjhofkin

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I really like the shaping in Dr. Churchwell's overcoats. These were made by Len Logsdail. The chest has a very nice, rounded shape that you don't often (if ever) see in off-the-rack overcoats.

Perhaps a question for @Nytailor: are darts necessary for this sort of shaping? Is the chest built using canvas and ironwork, and then accentuated through the use of darts? (Can't tell if the first has darts, although the second looks like it does).


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Would that happen to be this cloth, if anyone knows?

 

TheShetlandSweater

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Undarted. I think one of the hallmarks of a polo coat is the way the fabric can ripple around the midsection, especially if the hands are in the pockets. You need more fullness and fabric around the midsection to get these ripples.
 

Mr Stevens

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Since I don't have a nice camel polo coat, if I were to buy one, I'd probably go for undarted purely for utility.

But, I think that shape/fit/drape are more important than the presence of a nearly invisible seam. If you are looking for something like the Logsdail coats to add to (what I'm assuming is) your extensive collection, why not go with the darted version? Those coats look great and seem more formal/structured with the roped shoulders, seemingly heavily canvased chest, and more significant drop. Might not be as versatile as the ones on Ralph, but I agree that the Dr. Churchwell shape looks great.
 

Nytailor

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Would that happen to be this cloth, if anyone knows?

When making the large plaid topcoat I decided on no front darts. It would have distorted the pattern too much. This would not have looked good. There are front darts in the other coat.

Shape is generated through the use of darts. But it depends on the body the coat is being built for. This gentleman does not have a prominent chest. This means I can remove a front dart without altering the look desired. It does mean a tad more tailoring. But it helps when the fabric has some body to to it. This means it can be "tailored".
 

dieworkwear

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When making the large plaid topcoat I decided on no front darts. It would have distorted the pattern too much. This would not have looked good. There are front darts in the other coat.

Shape is generated through the use of darts. But it depends on the body the coat is being built for. This gentleman does not have a prominent chest. This means I can remove a front dart without altering the look desired. It does mean a tad more tailoring. But it helps when the fabric has some body to to it. This means it can be "tailored".
Thank you for the explanation, Leonard. Both coats look great.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I also bought a length of this very spongey, wool-alpaca tweed. This is not a hard cloth. It's very soft. I'm unsure what to do with it, but if anyone has ideas, I'd be open to them.



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Auralee in Tokyo seems to have used something very similar to this fabric for their coming FW22 collection. Photos from the recent PFW show



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bjhofkin

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dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I know you like that silhouette, and maybe it's just a matter of body type (I'm a 5'8", 160#) – but I really just look like a human tepee in coats like that.
I love that stuff. Big coats, big pants, oversized sweaters. I've even come around to big shirts.

 

driving glove

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DWW, I think either a balmacaan or an ulster would be a good choice for your loose herringbone cloth, preferably with an inside “poacher’s pocket” for a baguette or reading material. Given that you are having a polo coat made, the ulster might be too similar in styling, unless you already have balmacaans too.
Incidently, in the example you posted above, does the balmacaan have a self-gillet? Nice idea if so.
 
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dieworkwear

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Incidently, in the example you posted above, does the balmacaan have a self-gillet? Nice idea if so.
I assume that's a smaller jacket, but am not sure.

I have a few bal coats, but I'm not opposed to using this fabric for another.

Good idea about the poacher's pocket.

Reminds me of this umbrella pocket design by Esther Priest Montague. This is prob not the right fabric for this sort of thing, but perhaps someone can use the design for a raincoat

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