The Official Classic Men's Coats Thread

[Chopper88]

I would do a different knot if you're actually buttoning the coat to keep warm. Otherwise, I think single breasted coats look better worn open.

There's another coat thread on the SWD side of the board. A bit more fashion forward, but there are some really awesome photos in there.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/439481/over-the-shoulders-under-the-knees-long-coats/0_20

Lots of single breasted styles, too.

BTW, the coat currently looks a touch big on you. You could try layering it over a light jacket.

Valid points, you are well on your way of convincing me I actually want a DB coat, just not an under the knee long one. I am planning on buttoning up most of the time.
I had a look through the SWD topic, there's some nice stuff in there indeed, but most of it isn't actually what I'm looking for, which makes me want to steer away from this coat at this point.

I agree it is a bit big, not by much I think though. My main fit issue would be that it has a little too much room in the chest, is that also what you mean?
Were this a sports coat or something, I would definitely consider it outright too big

an overcoat can have a little more play room as far as I'm concerned, this is on the edge as far as I'm concerned.

I don't think he should even wear a single-breasted coat closed, but if he had to, a lower buttoning point can give some visual interest with a scarf, whereas a high buttoning point will just make him look like bolt of fabric with long line of buttons. When worn open, the buttoning point will determine the line of the lapel, not how much "v-space" there is for wind to come through.

If it's actually cold out, he can just wear a different coat. Single breasted coats worn open can be nice on cool days, and I imagine he can own different clothes for different weather conditions.

That is exactly my concern!

And yes, I (can) own different coats for different weather conditions, but am specifically looking for a long overcoat which I can button up.
I had a black wool 3 button SB overcoat from my pre-SF days which doesn't fit me anymore after losing some weight, and am looking to replace that with a non black one which I put some more thought into this time.

All in all, I'm on the verge of returning the coat at this point

Finding a good coat is hard work... fortunately I (still) enjoy the chase so far

 

[dieworkwear]

nm

 

[Chopper88]

Doesn't have to be as edgey as the SWD thread, but here's a single-breasted coat worn more casually with a sweater and scarf, like you were saying.

Whilst that can work, and the guy in that pic looks fine, I don't see myself doing that. Just not looking for a coat to keep unbuttoned at this point.
Coat is back on it's way! I wanted to make it work, but it just wouldn't...

Thanks for your insights though!

 

[dieworkwear]

nm

 

[VRaivio]

I don't see much loden up here in the north of Europe, but the cloth is definitely among the highest-quality sportswear fabrics without man made top layers. Shame about the trous but that coat of SC's looks mighty fine.

 

[dieworkwear]

nm

 

[Handcuffed]

this is incredible. does anyone have details?

 

[VRaivio]

"Quote:

Originally Posted by VRaivio

I don't see much loden up here in the north of Europe, but the cloth is definitely among the highest-quality sportswear fabrics without man made top layers. Shame about the trous but that coat of SC's looks mighty fine.

I don't have an opinion about SC's trousers, but judging the length of someone's trousers over the internet seems more #mensweary than passively accusing someone of being #mensweary for having short trousers. The height of someone's belted trousers can rise and fall an inch throughout the day, and in real life, such small variations in someone's trouser length doesn't actually affect how they look in real life.

There's a tendency on this forum for people to nitpick the smallest, tinyiest elements of someone's clothes -- without looking at the bigger picture of how they look -- and it drives me nuts. Mafoofan does it well, but people who try to copy him by talking about a wrinkle here or a short sleeve there strike me as someone who only understands style through the internet.

Same for people who like to go on and on about quality over the internet, nitpicking things apart."

Why thank you, Derek. I like you too, though passive-aggressiveness hardly works if you edit your messages to hide the original content.

 

[comrade]



/\ Looks like somebody took a suit pattern, made it longer, voilà, instant overcoat.

Also, If you care about warmth that's a very low gorge. You'll need a big scarf.

 

[Palantir]

Anyone know where to find Luigi Bianchi Montanova in person? It seems that only Yoox and a couple other websites carry any of their coats, but I'd like to try them on and hopefully see a wider selection.

 

[tv2177]



this is incredible. does anyone have details?

that could be Ring Jacket

 

[BD22]

That is exactly my concern!

And yes, I (can) own different coats for different weather conditions, but am specifically looking for a long overcoat which I can button up.
I had a black wool 3 button SB overcoat from my pre-SF days which doesn't fit me anymore after losing some weight, and am looking to replace that with a non black one which I put some more thought into this time.

All in all, I'm on the verge of returning the coat at this point

Finding a good coat is hard work... fortunately I (still) enjoy the chase so far

I've found it hard as well to find a great SB topcoat that retains a good silhouette when buttoned. (DBs look great but can be hard to pull off with casual stuff underneath.)

The ones that appeal most to me all feature pretty low button stances. The Grieves & Hawks model, above, is a rare exception -- but, again, it's difficult to wear that coat casually. I appreciate the exposed chest problem and would advocate a 3-roll-2.

They also all fall at or above the knee. The Rubinacci below just doesn't look right to me worn with jeans.

Quote:

 

[blacktaro]

I was just wondering what's you guys thoughts on this coat?

 

[P-K-L]



I was just wondering what's you guys thoughts on this coat?

looks like military surplus

 

[comrade]



I don't think he should even wear a single-breasted coat closed, but if he had to, a lower buttoning point can give some visual interest with a scarf, whereas a high buttoning point will just make him look like bolt of fabric with long line of buttons. When worn open, the buttoning point will determine the line of the lapel, not how much "v-space" there is for wind to come through.

If it's actually cold out, he can just wear a different coat. Single breasted coats worn open can be nice on cool days, and I imagine he can own different clothes for different weather conditions.

Correct. Anyone in New York or Boston the past two winters who had to be 'properly dressed" and spent time out of doors,
waiting for the "t" for example, would have perished from exposure in most of the coats shown.When I lived in Chicago I wore
three dress coats depending on the wind chill: a Burberry Balmacaan medium weight cashmere and wool, a 32 oz British Warm,
and a melton Invertere Great Coat.

Some current (trad) examples not designed for the Italian winter:

http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/product.php?productid=18507&cat=377&page=1

http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/product.php?productid=18424&cat=377&page=1

http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/product.php?productid=23434&cat=377&page=1

http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/product.php?productid=18523&cat=377&page=1

http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/product.php?productid=25621&cat=378&page=1