The official CELINE thread

[thorns]

What fragrance in the collection could be considered a Reptile-lite?

Most likely Eau de Californie with the subtle smokey woods and clean leather, though I'm not exactly sure there are any Reptile-lite fragrances in the collection. Black Tie shares similar elements of having the spices of Reptile, but lacks the leather and has syrupy vanilla and woods instead. Cologne Française has the sweet fig and smokey woods, and something in the drydown reminds me of Reptile abstractly, but I'm not sure I would classify it as Reptile-lite either.

 

[SirGrotius]

For me it'd be Cologne Française. I'm still feeling a bit dark and broody with it, but more in a bohemian let-me-tell-you-about-this-book way versus look-at-my-leather-it-kills mode.

 

[thorns]

The fw19 Berlin campaign is definitely one of my favourite Celine campaigns. It is cold, hard, and industrial. I wonder if it is possible to match some women's fw21 looks with the Berlin story.

Turtlenecks or shirt + tie paired with cropped military jackets would be a nice addition to the Berlin campaign protagonist's wardrobe.

Cropped coats will easily work like the teddy and leather jackets.

I could see distressed ripped denim paired with a t-shirt or hoodie for a more casual outfit for the Berlin campaign protagonist.

I think the Z trainers would be a good addition to the fw19 Berlin campaign protagonist's wardrobe. Can't be wearing Rangers all the time, even though they can be dressed up or down.

Turtleneck with suit will be a nice alternative to his shirts and ties.

Maybe now that more time has passed since fw19, more and more people will warm up to how fresh it was. Anthony even bothered to rip off that silhouette, with enough ugly tweaks to not be accused of plagarization, for his Pre-Fall 2020 campaign.

 

[BasicJB]

Hedi's profile that featured bourgeois looks against a grittier backdrop (Paris, not Berlin)

 

[Deonfate]

I feel like the celine couture pieces don't get the love they deserve. I think Hedi honed his couture-making skills the most after he got back in 2018 (Rumors are that he was learning from the chanel ateliers since Lagerfeld was there). The beading is absolutely jaw-dropping and very fresh. I can't really think of any couture pieces that rival with what Hedi came up with. There's an impeccable balance between the weight and the classicism of the couture traditions and a very modern and almost graphic line to them. It's such a shame that they don't get highlighted that much or managed to create a red carpet moment.

Probably it's intentional that he wanted to sort of dress them down and layer them with ready to wear basics. I just wish there's enough interesting fashion reporting that can highlight such hidden gems.

Anyway, it's probably my favorite thing that came up from the Hedi-celine and I wish that more people paid attention to them.

 

[thorns]

There's something quite cool about pairing blazer with a couture dress

This dress looks good on her

I'm not cultured enough to say much besides that I think it looks good.

 

[Deonfate]

This floor length dress is intimidating to look at. I can't fathom how complex the embroidery is to achieve such a look and texture.

Another similar take on a blouse from SS20. I like how Hedi is not very precious about such pieces, it lightens the mood and gives that "cool" take.

They remind me of these pants from Saint laurent SS15 menswear. In true Hedi fashion, ever so self referential, an ancestor to the other two iterations of the same concept.

Very interesting surface treatment. My jaw literally dropped at the sight of this piece. I can't think of any garment with such a rich texture from any of the so called couture houses.

You rarely get to see zari thread work these days. And to be so delicately executed on a wool twill takes it to another level.

The disco ball souvenir blouson from SS20. Hedi excels at "masculine" embroidered pieces. There's a graphic quality to the piece that gives it such a hard edge. Probably it's the use of silver chains.

This knit cardigan with chains also is a very interesting piece. Again Hedi is not very precious about his couture and sometimes he reserves the best of treatments to such mundane pieces. That's what sets it apart after all. Other designers are too narrow minded and only do this to gowns and very evening pieces.

I can go on and on but that's enough for today.

 

[thorns]

I can go on and on but that's enough for today.

Always great to learn from you!

 

[BasicJB]

Very interesting dive into the CELINE HC approach. It always fascinates me when Loic Prigent goes into the details of each garment for his videos. I wish he could do the reports for Celine virtual shows as well. Hedi is clearly not a conceptual HC designer so he focuses more on the craftsmanship and handiwork rather than new silhouettes. It's certainly a more "practical" approach that's missing in modern HC.

This floor length dress is intimidating to look at. I can't fathom how complex the embroidery is to achieve such a look and texture.

Another similar take on a blouse from SS20. I like how Hedi is not very precious about such pieces, it lightens the mood and gives that "cool" take.

They remind me of these pants from Saint laurent SS15 menswear. In true Hedi fashion, ever so self referential, an ancestor to the other two iterations of the same concept.

Very interesting surface treatment. My jaw literally dropped at the sight of this piece. I can't think of any garment with such a rich texture from any of the so called couture houses.
View attachment 1594796
You rarely get to see zari thread work these days. And to be so delicately executed on a wool twill takes it to another level.

The disco ball souvenir blouson from SS20. Hedi excels at "masculine" embroidered pieces. There's a graphic quality to piece that gives such a hard edge. Probably it's the use of silver chains.

This knit cardigan with chains also is a very interesting piece. Again Hedi is not very precious about his couture and sometimes he reserves the best of treatments to such mundane pieces. That's what sets apart after all. Other designers are too narrow minded and only do this to gowns and very evening pieces.

I can go on and on but that's enough for today.

 

[Deonfate]

Very interesting dive into the CELINE HC approach. It always fascinates me when Loic Prigent goes into the details of each garment for his videos. I wish he could do the reports for Celine virtual shows as well. Hedi is clearly not a conceptual HC designer so he focuses more on the craftsmanship and handiwork rather than new silhouettes. It's certainly a more "practical" approach that's missing in modern HC.

Sadly the quality of his content went downhill since the quarantine. I'm sure it's not his fault. But his genuine curiosity and closeness to the garments themselves makes him one if not the most enjoyable and original fashion reporter. I wish more people would take his approach.

Totally agree, Hedi is giving couture a much needed new non-chalante attitude. Again very very modern. It's such a shame that lame high concept plastic arts and crafts is taking the center stage in haute couture.

It also brings up the point of the current state of fashion. The industry is stagnant and the solution is right under their nose. This democratization of fashion through branded t-shirts, baseball caps and hoodies won't lead to any bright path. I believe there should be more focus on garment technology and finding technical solutions to achieve these couture techniques on an industrial level. The gap between high fashion and mainstream fast fashion is closing day by day, not just by the cheapening of the former but I'm also seeing very "commercial" brands taking quality garment making very seriously. Probably sometimes in the future there won't be any serious differentiation between a high fashion garment and a fast fashion one apart from the brand name. You have to be really stupid to not see this as not sustainable. I wonder what are the big heads thinking about.

 

[Adamdraps]

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He brought back Anna Pepper ?

 

[Jabbathecunt]

Very interesting dive into the CELINE HC approach. It always fascinates me when Loic Prigent goes into the details of each garment for his videos. I wish he could do the reports for Celine virtual shows as well. Hedi is clearly not a conceptual HC designer so he focuses more on the craftsmanship and handiwork rather than new silhouettes. It's certainly a more "practical" approach that's missing in modern HC.

Celine doesn't have any Haute Couture offerings, the French government is extremely particular on what can be certified as Haute Couture.

Hedi is deliberately showing his Couture pieces with hoodies etc because nothing is open, France is in lockdown. People have nowhere to wear these pieces yet every girl wants to feel like a princess even if they are going to the corner store.

Its crazy to me that so many men are arguing and so worried about women collections. It just goes to show you that Hedi is as relevant as ever, it's when people stop talking about you that you have to worry.

I worry more about designers who are pushing evening wear right now.

 

[BasicJB]

Pairing the celine western shirt (either SS or FW 19, can't recall) with DB blazer from SS19, london jeans in union wash from FW 19, and SLP 3 passants belt.

Denim on denim is tricky but I guess it kinda works here?

Yes, wearing La Peau Nue today and it's blending perfect with a softer, Kim Jones Dior look I'm wearing.

Bonus question, which western shirt do you prefer, the one by HV (Hedi/Helmut Vaccarello) or by HS chez Celine:

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Celine
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[thorns]

Trying Saint-Germain-des-Prés on skin and the top notes just mesmerize me because of that nicotine element meshed with this spicy green fresh element that I detect. The nicotine is a lot less in your face and aggressive than Nightclubbing. I think the same perfumer did both. However as it dries down I find the clean musk they used quite grating. On paper test it leaned heavily feminine, but on skin it feels quite unisex for me. The sweetness on skin is more subtle than paper test.

 

[thorns]

I'm ready for vests + t-shirt combo to come back