The official CELINE thread

[RedVelvetWounds]

Or just wear what you like.

 

[kieran84]

Randeep that jacket is really nice I wish they'd reissue it.

You're probably the best person to ask about really skinny jeans as well. Any high quality brands do nice ones or any recommendations in general? I mainly wear the looser skinny Celine / Saint Laurent jeans but some trainers look really nice with skinnier jeans.

Thanks

 

[kieran84]

As for the recent discussion, a little variation is great, say boxy jackets with skinny jeans, looser knits, etc. For example I have the cropped boxy fit Sherpa jacket from I think AW19 season. I really like this proportion with skinny jeans and boots.

Hedi had been doing really well in that regard until dancing kid, just keeping his underlying style but expanding into some new shapes. However, what he's been doing since dancing kid has just been completely different and doesn't coincide with anything he'd built up until that point.

 

[pockets]

new mens show should be soon, right? contrary to what ive said, i expect a course correction of sorts, but we’ll see.

 

[SirGrotius]

good point, new mens show should hit soon and I too for some reason expect a slight return to form but obviously with the newer vibe peppered throughout. I noticed that MrPorter bought a ton of TKP merchandise at least in the states - more than the Celine webstore at a glance!

 

[BasicJB]

I guess we all know what Vaccarello's mood board looked like. TKP on a diet (so you can squeeze into those skin-tight jeans)

all from vogue

 

[Jabbathecunt]

As for the recent discussion, a little variation is great, say boxy jackets with skinny jeans, looser knits, etc. For example I have the cropped boxy fit Sherpa jacket from I think AW19 season. I really like this proportion with skinny jeans and boots.

Hedi had been doing really well in that regard until dancing kid, just keeping his underlying style but expanding into some new shapes. However, what he's been doing since dancing kid has just been completely different and doesn't coincide with anything he'd built up until that point.

I agree with you, Hedi is basically building the brand from the ground after the pandemic. He needs numbers. Hedi goes through cycles, the young kids are getting hooked off his recent collections, but will go through the cycles until they find their aesthetic just as everyone else has. I feel some people can be salty at times because he's not pandering to their specific aesthetic at this very moment but he always returns to the classics; refining and revolutionizing as he goes. The fact that people argue over it on the internet means that he is still as relevant as ever. He has been the fashion zeitgeist of practically every season while he was designing for the last 20 years from skinny oil stained ripped jeans, sequins for men, coated denim, neon hoodies, the faux-hawk to the TKP deerskin vests that people defend on the internet (I don't get the latter at all). Whether at YSL Rive Gauche, Dior Homme, Saint Laurent or Celine every year he is borrowed from and it spans many designers. Although Anthony has based his entire career at Saint Laurent in Hedi's shadow other designers such as Ludovic de Saint Sernin get inspiration on show themes for just a season or Muccia Prada a couple pieces here and there. The list goes on and on and it filters down to Zara, H&M etc.

There is something for everyone with Hedi's designs, the cuts and aesthetic vary with each season but he is still doing his brand and its exclusive. Personally I'm not tied down to one designer or aesthetic because when you limit yourself it could lead to complacency and I'm constantly evolving and growing as a human being. I never have trouble incorporating at least a few of Hedi's pieces at the very least into my wardrobe though, that's his genius and also why he's one of my favorite designers.

 

[Lit Harington]

I guess we all know what Vaccarello's mood board looked like. TKP on a diet (so you can squeeze into those skin-tight jeans)
View attachment 1639042
View attachment 1639044
all from vogue

"if i use the same model, keeping his hair exactly the same, but put his jean jacket w the sleeves cut on a different model nobody will ever know" - vaccarello, probably.

 

[godnose]

Hello all, this is my first post. And, well, it says something that Celine TDK and TKP enthused me enough to want to talk about this house enough, so I joined this forum. Here are my thoughts.

For me TDK and (especially) TKP were the first collections to really resonate with me and make me feel like I had a spiritual home in a fashion house. Quite a statement, I know... Before this, I had been a Lanvin fan under Lucas Ossendrijver - amazing designer, so sad he got lost in the womenswear ructions at Lanvin.

Honestly, before SS 2021 TDK Celine Homme looked very underwhelming to me. It was dated and just felt like a throwback to something no one wanted, it was almost awkward. I have never like Hedi's work before. I absolutely hated the indy band skinny jeans scene in the mid 2000s and it never worked for me. I shunned fashion at that point in a way, waiting for the scene to change. So I am not a Hedi fan-boy per se. I just have become one since 2021.

To me, Hedi found his groove with Celine from TDK onwards. The roomier fits, embracing new (or 90s recycled trends) and urban and more hiphop styles. I even like the big logos... The big CELINE on the hoodies and across the back of jackets, just looks good and street. It's very urban, yet it's a puzzlement to the drug dealers who wear Gucci and Balenciaga etc. They haven't caught onto Celine, and (I kinda hope they don't)...

Celine somehow feels a bit "underground" almost. It's also a "new" house from the 60s, but new with pedigree oweing a lot to Philo's work, of course, and that's perfect. It's nowhere near a household name, yet it's putting out amazing high-end clothes and getting substantial backing. "CELINE" is also a very feminine name, and the appropriation of it onto bruising bomber jackets is kinda evocative of men claiming a piece of feminine identity and making it their own. It's allowing feminine-ish guys to do streetwear, and that is new and different. Total new market cornered by Hedi and it's genius.

The branding has just tied up so many threads here. It's street, yet feminine, it's hard, gothic and dark (esp TKP), yet pretty and elegant. It's powerful with millions being spent. What was the spend for TKP vs Vaccarrello's latest presentation at SLP? Not judging, and it's not really important, but the SLP presentation looks like it cost about £15,000, vs £1,000,000 for TKP. It's mind boggling how much money is being thrown into Celine. It's a mega investment for sure, and though it's meaningless in a way, this confidence and indulgence makes the brand exude power. I hope it works, but I also hope it remains niche... A logical impossibility???

Now, my concerns. I have been really disappointed to see hardly any of the TKP collection show up in London or online, when it has shown up in Asia. I feel that Asia is getting the first pick and then what's left will come to the rest of the world - note that the deerskin vest showed up online with only sizes 46 and 48 available from the first day. They are working to keep it very exclusive, that's for sure and they are fighting the seasonal 50% off sales. Only Mr Porter has it (24S too, but that's LVMH, END might have some, but only instore, not online). The concern is that TDK didn't do so well, however, I think it did. It seemed to be selling, and I'm sure it sold more than the previous homme collections which looked more like SLP.

The thing is, everyone knows that ready-to-wear doesn't make money. So the Homme side, needs to be a powerful enough product to give a halo and drive handbag sales, perfume and maybe trainers basically. If it can push trainer sales, then that's fine (but handbags are far more profitable). Personally I think the CT-01, CT-02 and CT-03 trainers are awesome, but Celine's "fashion-insider" status means show-off people don't want it (yet). But I really hope there is a place for this brand, which, if it is to remain as it is, powerful but somehow niche and insider, it'll need to sacrifice profit a bit - that might sound absurd, but to really rake in profit Celine would have to lose its exclusivity and go full Gucci and for me that would spoil the draw of what Celine is all about, so can Slimane keep LVMH satisfied by keeping Celine a bit niche?

If LVMH is happy to be a thorn in Kering's side (vis-a-vis SLP) without prioritsing profit, then fine it'll keep it going as a semi-folly (Celine doesn't need a halo menswear range to sell handbags, women already love Celine bags). Taking the perfume collection, these are super niche and luxury perfumes, they are not the usual scents pumped out by fashion houses to make fast and easy money. Runway shows and collections are aspirational marketing tools which get people to by the stack-em-high sell-em-cheap (relatviely cheap) perfumes. But Celine's range of perfumes is a complicated collection of quite challening fragrances that are expensive. Only one or two of them will appeal to young people. These are designed for perfume enthusiasts and people with niche tastes, they are not a cash cow. Basically, Celine is to the big houses (Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Balenciaga, SLP) what kind of Lamborghini was to Ferrari in the 1980s. It's amazing and expensive and a strong brand, but it's niche and nowhere near as profitable.

As for the Spring Summer 2022... Where the hell is it??? The lack of TKP stock and the absense of SS22 does have me a little concerned... I'm praying that all is going well with Celine Homme, but as I've said above, Celine Homme is a near-folly as far as an investment is concerned. But please, please, can we nurture a folly, because it's so f*cking good!! Isn't there more to life than profit??? Will LVMH keep it going? How can Celine Homme actually be generating profit?

Finally, my view is that if SS22 does emerge, it will absolutely be a contonuation of TDK and TKP, I think they will see Hedi's onto something. Everyday all I see is baggy jeans on all young people and loose 90s tees, graphics and roomy jackets. There'll be a couple of skinny jeans etc. but Hedi will not be going back to the old days. He's catering to skaters now, not indy kids who are all now in their 30s with families.

The huge outdoor ad campaigns suggests Celine is still pushing the Homme line. Womenswear does seem to be shunned though, and the investment is clearly far less.

Interested to hear people's views!

 

[Lit Harington]

Hello all, this is my first post. And, well, it says something that Celine TDK and TKP enthused me enough to want to talk about this house enough, so I joined this forum. Here are my thoughts.

For me TDK and (especially) TKP were the first collections to really resonate with me and make me feel like I had a spiritual home in a fashion house. Quite a statement, I know... Before this, I had been a Lanvin fan under Lucas Ossendrijver - amazing designer, so sad he got lost in the womenswear ructions at Lanvin.

Honestly, before SS 2021 TDK Celine Homme looked very underwhelming to me. It was dated and just felt like a throwback to something no one wanted, it was almost awkward. I have never like Hedi's work before. I absolutely hated the indy band skinny jeans scene in the mid 2000s and it never worked for me. I shunned fashion at that point in a way, waiting for the scene to change. So I am not a Hedi fan-boy per se. I just have become one since 2021.

To me, Hedi found his groove with Celine from TDK onwards. The roomier fits, embracing new (or 90s recycled trends) and urban and more hiphop styles. I even like the big logos... The big CELINE on the hoodies and across the back of jackets, just looks good and street. It's very urban, yet it's a puzzlement to the drug dealers who wear Gucci and Balenciaga etc. They haven't caught onto Celine, and (I kinda hope they don't)...

Celine somehow feels a bit "underground" almost. It's also a "new" house from the 60s, but new with pedigree oweing a lot to Philo's work, of course, and that's perfect. It's nowhere near a household name, yet it's putting out amazing high-end clothes and getting substantial backing. "CELINE" is also a very feminine name, and the appropriation of it onto bruising bomber jackets is kinda evocative of men claiming a piece of feminine identity and making it their own. It's allowing feminine-ish guys to do streetwear, and that is new and different. Total new market cornered by Hedi and it's genius.

The branding has just tied up so many threads here. It's street, yet feminine, it's hard, gothic and dark (esp TKP), yet pretty and elegant. It's powerful with millions being spent. What was the spend for TKP vs Vaccarrello's latest presentation at SLP? Not judging, and it's not really important, but the SLP presentation looks like it cost about £15,000, vs £1,000,000 for TKP. It's mind boggling how much money is being thrown into Celine. It's a mega investment for sure, and though it's meaningless in a way, this confidence and indulgence makes the brand exude power. I hope it works, but I also hope it remains niche... A logical impossibility???

Now, my concerns. I have been really disappointed to see hardly any of the TKP collection show up in London or online, when it has shown up in Asia. I feel that Asia is getting the first pick and then what's left will come to the rest of the world - note that the deerskin vest showed up online with only sizes 46 and 48 available from the first day. They are working to keep it very exclusive, that's for sure and they are fighting the seasonal 50% off sales. Only Mr Porter has it (24S too, but that's LVMH, END might have some, but only instore, not online). The concern is that TDK didn't do so well, however, I think it did. It seemed to be selling, and I'm sure it sold more than the previous homme collections which looked more like SLP.

The thing is, everyone knows that ready-to-wear doesn't make money. So the Homme side, needs to be a powerful enough product to give a halo and drive handbag sales, perfume and maybe trainers basically. If it can push trainer sales, then that's fine (but handbags are far more profitable). Personally I think the CT-01, CT-02 and CT-03 trainers are awesome, but Celine's "fashion-insider" status means show-off people don't want it (yet). But I really hope there is a place for this brand, which, if it is to remain as it is, powerful but somehow niche and insider, it'll need to sacrifice profit a bit - that might sound absurd, but to really rake in profit Celine would have to lose its exclusivity and go full Gucci and for me that would spoil the draw of what Celine is all about, so can Slimane keep LVMH satisfied by keeping Celine a bit niche?

If LVMH is happy to be a thorn in Kering's side (vis-a-vis SLP) without prioritsing profit, then fine it'll keep it going as a semi-folly (Celine doesn't need a halo menswear range to sell handbags, women already love Celine bags). Taking the perfume collection, these are super niche and luxury perfumes, they are not the usual scents pumped out by fashion houses to make fast and easy money. Runway shows and collections are aspirational marketing tools which get people to by the stack-em-high sell-em-cheap (relatviely cheap) perfumes. But Celine's range of perfumes is a complicated collection of quite challening fragrances that are expensive. Only one or two of them will appeal to young people. These are designed for perfume enthusiasts and people with niche tastes, they are not a cash cow. Basically, Celine is to the big houses (Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Balenciaga, SLP) what kind of Lamborghini was to Ferrari in the 1980s. It's amazing and expensive and a strong brand, but it's niche and nowhere near as profitable.

As for the Spring Summer 2022... Where the hell is it??? The lack of TKP stock and the absense of SS22 does have me a little concerned... I'm praying that all is going well with Celine Homme, but as I've said above, Celine Homme is a near-folly as far as an investment is concerned. But please, please, can we nurture a folly, because it's so f*cking good!! Isn't there more to life than profit??? Will LVMH keep it going? How can Celine Homme actually be generating profit?

Finally, my view is that if SS22 does emerge, it will absolutely be a contonuation of TDK and TKP, I think they will see Hedi's onto something. Everyday all I see is baggy jeans on all young people and loose 90s tees, graphics and roomy jackets. There'll be a couple of skinny jeans etc. but Hedi will not be going back to the old days. He's catering to skaters now, not indy kids who are all now in their 30s with families.

The huge outdoor ad campaigns suggests Celine is still pushing the Homme line. Womenswear does seem to be shunned though, and the investment is clearly far less.

Interested to hear people's views!

excellent first post!

i'm wary it's hard to ask this question without seeming patronising - but how old are you? i actually agree with a lot of what you said, but I can't quite wrap my head around someone hating everything hedi's done until TDK though If you're 16-19 then that would make sense. again, I don't mean that as a criticism.

for reference, I'm 'only' 24, but I loved his SL stuff (though couldn't afford much of it) and his Celine work has conveniently coincided with my graduating university and finally being able to buy pieces i love.

You refer to earlier seasons as:

"dated and just felt like a throwback to something no one wanted, it was almost awkward."

which i can't quite understand. i'm not sure how you can look at fw19 and not think that show was extremely cool.

but hey - these things are subjective!

 

[godnose]

excellent first post!

i'm wary it's hard to ask this question without seeming patronising - but how old are you? i actually agree with a lot of what you said, but I can't quite wrap my head around someone hating everything hedi's done until TDK though If you're 16-19 then that would make sense. again, I don't mean that as a criticism.

for reference, I'm 'only' 24, but I loved his SL stuff (though couldn't afford much of it) and his Celine work has conveniently coincided with my graduating university and finally being able to buy pieces i love.

You refer to earlier seasons as:

"dated and just felt like a throwback to something no one wanted, it was almost awkward."

which i can't quite understand. i'm not sure how you can look at fw19 and not think that show was extremely cool.

but hey - these things are subjective!

Hey, thank you! And no worries at all! I'm early 30s actually, but holding on to my youth quite strongly! (probably hence the obsession with Celine right now).

So I was university in the time that skinny jeans and all the indie bands were the rage and they just weren't my thing. I was a skateboarder in the 90s and into hiphop music throughout uni, and the indie scene was so pervasive and every student I saw looked like that (all from Topshop pretty much) that I wanted to resist it. I was still wearing baggy jeans into about 2006, probably looked a bit daft then and gave it up sometime after that (but I have never once worn skinny jeans btw) - I need to see if I can dig out my baggies at my parents' house now - hope I still kept a couple pairs, but it may feel weird for me to "regress" 20 years!

So yeh the SLP stuff was naff to me, I only really got into fashion when it began to take on aspects of streetwear, I see Allessandro Michele's appointment to Gucci as a pivotal moment here which really saw fashion take a step up in my opinion and I began to get more interested. I felt like when Gucci was reborn the designs and productions in fashion suddenly got better.

The popular music of now actually appeals to me more than the popular music when I was younger and Hedi's taken this as the inspiration at the moment and for me it's working.

And, yeh, awkwardness of Celine Homme pre 2021, for me, was just because it was so typically Hedi, as everyone had predicted. It was so close to SLP that it felt ill at ease. TDK was a breath of fresh air and I'm so happy it happened. I felt as if the pandemic saved Celine.

 

[Udo]

Great video showing the TKP pieces in action:

CELINE by Hedi Slimane ‘Teen Knight Poem’

"Did you see the logo at the back?"

"No, where is it?"

 

[SirGrotius]

Looks better in the flesh! I like that guy, ha.

 

[kieran84]

I like the puffer jacket but I'd be embarrassed to wear the Celine logo. Most of it looked pretty bad to me. I liked the green logo sweater in Celine's pictures but the font on the logo looks very thick.

The overcoats are cool but difficult to wear. A more subtle but still boxy fit would help. I still wouldn't buy though.

A lot of this stuff looks destined for sale racks. I can't imagine who would look good in this.

And I like the young kids style today. This just isn't it though for me.

 

[godnose]

Great video showing the TKP pieces in action:

CELINE by Hedi Slimane ‘Teen Knight Poem’


View attachment 1639231

"Did you see the logo at the back?"

"No, where is it?"

Lol, and there it all is! The jacket being worn by the salesperson is really nice. Looks great on him. But Asian people can always pull off clothes with ease. Very cute interactions too. Never seen a high-end sales person so shy and sweet, ha ha.

I loved the denim jacket on the runway, but the styling is what pulled it through I think, it does not look so good as he's wearing it. I think it needs the hoodie underneath to conceal the collar a little bit.