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Critics of his pre-ss21 collections aren't entirely wrong when they criticized Hedi's overly dressy looks as being out of touch. But I think it was necessary to give some credibility to Celine as a place for dressy looks and as a Parisian couture house.
He brought up Raf Simons, but it was a missed opportunity to not bring up Marc Jacobs and his '93 Grunge collection that was panned by critics, and got him fired from Perry Ellis.
He just verbally called out leather jackets for the girls, but the tweed jackets are what is being super hyped in China. I don't even see many girls wearing Celine biker jackets compared to the blazers or tweed jackets.